1963 3hp evinrude lightwin made in belgium.help,please!!!

[2nd cook]

need help.don't know how to proceed.cleaned tank 5 times,installed new oem coils,condensors,points cleaned fuel line rebuilt carb 3 times with oem components. sometimes motor starts,runs for awhile then dies.restored a 52 3hp Johnson,no problem! any help at all is greatly appreciated.

 

[racerone]

Model # is ?

 

[fhhuber]

sounds almost like riding mower i was given free because it only ran a few seconds at a time... That one had a stick in the middle of the fuel line. Let the thing sit 10 min, carb bowl filled it ran 30 sec and wouldn't even start again for 5 min.

It sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Air leak or plugged line/passage. Could even be bad gas (too much water in the fuel)

You keep trying the same stuff over and over and getting the same result... **do something different**

You are missing cleaning some passage in the carb or something else that will turn out to be simple when you know what it is.

You don't have to keep buying new carb kits... The gaskets should be fine to re-use if the engine never got up to operating temperature.

If that's a reed valve engine, the reeds may not be seating properly.

 

[oldboat1]

Make sure it's not overheating. Look for a slotted screw under the powerhead on the left side, looks like the lower unit fill or vent screws. If you unscrew it while running, should get a strong stream of water if your pump is working (holes on the rear of the leg should spit water).

Check compression.

 

[F_R]

The sintered fuel filter in the gas tank. Allows enough fuel to flow to maybe get it started, but not enough to keep it running. Nearly impossible to clean, it is supposed to be replaced. Myself, I melt the solder that holds it in the threaded fitting and replace it with a piece of brass filter screen.

 

[boobie]

What's the compression on it ??

 

[2nd cook]

thank you for all your help. don't know what the compression is, have to get a tester.thanks again!

 

[2nd cook]

hello and thanks for all your help.could not do it otherwise.my handle was my occupation for 40 years,nothing to do with outboards! not savvy about the internet and how to join this forum,either.i'm just barely scraping by. today checked compression, it's about 63 on both cylinders, is that ok? pee hole spits water,some anyway.motor does not really get hot but will address that later.had the motor running for about 15 mins. last time i removed the shutoff valve, did not see a filter in there but will check again.if there is one,don't know if i'll be able to melt the solder.by the way,what is that red dope on the shutoff valve? modern version,please.also, there is mention of a sealer 1000 in my 67 service manual .what would that be in a modern version? you're supposed to put it around the outer edge of the welch plug.is that before you put in or after you put it in and flatten it? i'm pretty sure when i did my carb for the 3rd time and sealed the welch plug with household glue that did the trick because before motor wouldn't start at all .had it running today but motor was vibrating while idling ,not smooth like it should be.with all of you helping me i'm sure i can do it.again,thank you all

 

[F_R]

63 is pretty low, if that is an accurate measurement. Should be around 80. It's hard to get an accurate measurement on that little 3 without a suitable gauge and experience in using it. Look at your shut-off valve again. It screws into the filter fitting, which screws into the tank. The red stuff is Gasolia sealant. Still available, but don't bother. Little known secret: Best pipe thread sealant you can get for small fittings is Locktite blue Screw Lock. A drop will do ya. Scotchgrip 847 replaces Sealer 1000. Too darn expensive to buy it for a Welch plug. Any fuel proof gasket sealer will do for that---or none at all. Truth is it really doesn't need any. Make sure you don't get any inside the cavity.

 

[2nd cook]

thank you, F-R for all the information .borrowed a tester from the local auto store,hooked it up and pulled on it 6 or7 times and that's what I came up with have a 52 3hp Johnson with the same compression,works just fine how then can I improve those numbers? ran the evvinrude today for about 15 mins .when idling steering handle really shakes. how can I fix that? closed the shutoff valve and ran the carb dry,will look at the filter again . is there a way to clean it? new one costs around $40 also have to redo the starter rope mine measures from the knot to the handle 48" manual says 68 have to see if I can turn it 2 more turns without breaking the spring.thanks again for all your help!! one more question,what's the proper gearcase oil? on my 52 it says hypo. what is modern version to use on my 52 Johnson and 63 rude? I sure have a lot of questions,don't I ?

 

[oldboat1]

Two "mixes". The gas to oil ratio is 24:1. The air to fuel mix is controlled by the carburetor adjustment needles. (top low speed needle is set at 1 1/2 turns open to start. bottom high speed needle is about 3/4 open. Final settings vary.) Try adjusting the mix needles a bit leaner (clockwise) and see if the engine smooths out -- slight adjustments, about 1/8 turn at a time, giving the engine time to adjust.

 

[2nd cook]

hello all! will try to adjust low soeed needle some more,once I put motor together again.took it apart again to look for the filter,there isn't any,i'm sure.just a brass fitting with 1/2" thread and the shutoff valve.now I have adifferent problem!! when I ran the motor in a garbage can,there was always oil on top and when I took the motor out there was oil running down the skeg the peephole did not squirt much water either, so I took the thing apart to look at the impeller. where the gearcase is attached with 4 bolts,inside it was oily. on top end of the drive shaft there was no o ring. impeller looked o k then by mistake I pulled the drive shaft out of the gearcase. could not skewer the pinion gear so I took the gear case apart before I did that I drained the oil but only about 1 1/2 ounces came out.question is what happened to the rest? a few month ago I filled it properly.attached pump at drain hole and filled it till it came out on top.i'm stuck again!!! need help badly.thanks a lot in advance

 

[oldboat1]

Just refill it and have at it again. Run it with the lower cowling(s) removed so you have access -- make sure it's not overheating (top of the head not too hot to touch). If you are running it attached to the side of a barrel, it's going to suck in exhaust -- try a sawhorse (but make sure water depth is half way up the leg). Take it out on the lake or river if you can and run it out a bit, assuming you have it running OK. (Make mix adjustments while on the boat.)

 

[lindy46]

You will always see oil in the barrel - it is just unburnt oil that you mixed with the gas. It will run out the weep holes as it accumulates in the exhaust housing. Was there water in the gear oil when you drained it? If you are sure it was full and only got 1.5 ounces out of it, you most likely have a bad propshaft or driveshaft seal. Or it could be a bad or missing crush washer on the fill/vent bolts. Pressure testing will tell for sure. If your fuel filter is missing, that could cause running problems as crud can get stuck in the shut-off valve or get through to the carb. Was there crud in the carb on subsequent cleanings? Is the filter you need a 277187? If so, PM me - I have a NOS one you can have for cheap. Oh if you lie the lower unit on its' side, it is easier to mesh the driveshaft with the pinion gear. Shine a flashlight in there and move the L/U around until you see the hole in the pinion.

 

[racerone]

When the driveshaft pulls out all you have to do is turn it up side down.----Driveshaft will always fit back into the pinion if you work it a bit.

 

[2nd cook]

thank you all for responding!! this is mostly for lindy 46 oil comes out of weepholes all right.no water in gearcase when I drained it. washers in plugs are all there. no crud in carb when I cleaned it last. thank you for tip about realigning drive shaft and pinion gear.will get oil seal 0327031 and o ring 0301917.will replacing those take care of the oil loss? right now there is oil beneath the water pump plate and up into the leg.how do I remove the oil seal,says in my 67 manual that I need a special tool, is that so?how do I put the new one in?what is modern version of omc type c? finally,is that a complete 277187 including the brass connector with 1/2" thread ?w what is pm me? remember,i' m new at this I am very much interested.thank you

 

[oldboat1]

You could rig a pressure tester and see if the lower unit is leaking somewhere (seal leaks) -- small hand or foot pump, empty gearcase. Remove the l.u. and test underwater -- look for bubble trail.

You may not be leaking gear oil, and think it's possible you underfilled or didn't drain completely. Check where you think it's leaking (under the wear plate, for example). Scoop some on a fingertip and smell it. If it's unburned fuel, it will smell like gas.

Gear oil is the 80/90 wt. lube used for mechanical gear cases.

 

[lindy46]

2nd Cook, I sent you a PM (Private Message).

 

[2nd cook]

this mostly for f-r who suggested to use a piece of brass screen as a filter. where do you put the screen ?? between the shutoff valve and the connector that screws into the tank ??? thank you for all your help.

 

[F_R]

First, I use a propane torch to melt the solder holding the original filter in the fitting that screws into the tank, and toss the original filter element. Then I take a square of filter screen and form it into a tube shape. Rolling it around something like a pencil works nicely. The two edges should overlap slightly. Now test your soldering skills and solder the tube into the fitting. Sh-h-h-, don't tell anybody, but I recently discovered that a couple drops of Locktite thread locker will hold it in without soldering if you got a nice fit. Pinch the open end of the filter roll shut and fold it over. It's up to you to decide to solder the seam or not. Actually, if you have a nice overlap, it really isn't necessary to solder it. My kid's school teacher would call this "Arts & Crafts"