1965 Johnson 9.5 HP water pump access problem

[81Bronco]

Finally created an account:clap2:, but anyways, thought I would see if i could get some help on my motor. I am attempting to replace the water pump on my johnson, but i'm unable to gain enough room to disconnect the shift linkage from the bottom unit. Yes, I have already watched multiple videos on how to do it and have searched many forms looking for a solution, but no one seems to have the same problem as me. I've disconnected the four bolts that hold the bottom unit in, and have thrown the linkage in reverse. After I did this the bottom unit did release from the housing, but only half an inch. I have tried everything in order to move the unit just another inch or so in order to fit a socket or wrench in to disconnect the linkage, but to no avail. I resorted to removing the entire housing in order to disconnect the shift linkage from the lever in order to see if it will create more slack for the unit to drop down further, but it didn't. So now i'm stuck, and hoping for some assistance. Thanks!

1.first picture shows how small of a gap I'm talking about
2. second picture shows where i disconnected the shift linkage(hand) and the gap is shown at the complete bottom of the picture. it didnt move any further down when i did this
3. third picture just showing the bolt that needs to be removed

 

[racerone]

When you have the 4 bolts out the lower unit drops.---------Then pry the shift rod up out of the lower unit (rotate propshaft ).-------Move shift lever to get most access for 1/4" drive socket.--------------You have to REMOVE one bolt.-----------I have never had a problem that way----Have done this more 50 times in case you are doubtful.

 

[81Bronco]

When you have the 4 bolts out the lower unit drops.---------Then pry the shift rod up out of the lower unit.-------Move shift lever to get access for 1/4" drive socket.--------------You have to REMOVE one bolt.-----------I have never had a problem that way.

What do you mean by prying the shift rod out of the lower unit? I can freely move the rod through reverse neutral and forward, and i see the bolt on the shift rod moving along with it, but my problem is opening the gap enough in order to access the bolt. As in my first picture, I can not open the gap any further and I need to find a way to drop it atleast an inch

 

[81Bronco]

When you have the 4 bolts out the lower unit drops.---------Then pry the shift rod up out of the lower unit (rotate propshaft ).-------Move shift lever to get most access for 1/4" drive socket.--------------You have to REMOVE one bolt.-----------I have never had a problem that way----Have done this more 50 times in case you are doubtful.

Thanks for the help, I'm just not fully understanding what you mean by rotating the prop shaft in order to remove the rod. I'm very new to boat motors (with this being my first ever), so sorry for the need to explain it more simply. Thanks!

 

[racerone]

You rotate propshaft on outboard motors to line up clutch dog and gear so they engage properly.-------------One more time , you simply move shift lever and shift rod so you get the most room to work.---------Never had a problem doing this since about 1968 or so.

 

[kbait]

Should drop enough to fit the socket..unless driveshaft is stuck in powerhead. Search 'stuck drive shaft' in this forum, and you'll see some options.

 

[oldboat1]

Use a quarter inch drive socket attached to the screwdriver-style handle, or a quarter inch drive extension if you have one. It's about all the room there is.

Also a good idea to have a needle nosed pliers on hand or a pair of those long tweezers -- and a small diameter magnet. Connector is brass but the hex bolt should be magnetic.

Getting the bolt out is usually the easy part (has to come all the way out). Getting it lined up and back in place can be harder. Don't strip the threads in the connector, and make sure the rod is fully inserted through the machined slot before tightening the bolt. It sometimes helps to pry open the connector a little with a bladed screwdriver.

Other than giving better access to the connector, it doesn't make any difference whether the shift lever is in F, N or R for removal and replacement of the gearcase -- operation won't be affected.

 

[81Bronco]

I guess I'll research the stuck driveshaft, because to everyone suggesting to unscrew the bolt with various tools, i don't think you understand how small the gap is. it's about half the width of my finger (as seen in the picture). I know in all the tutorials and videos there is enough room to fit a socket, but thats the whole reason i created the thread was because for some reason my lower unit did not fall all the way down like it usually does.

I guess my next question is would a suck driveshaft allow it to run? i just had it running last week after i bought it and everything looked fine except the water pump, hence why i'm here
Thanks again guys

 

[oldboat1]

Use a wedge or pry bar to get what you can, then go in with a 1/8 or 1/4 inch drive socket. Alternatively, get your hands on a small offset box wrench and get it in there. A small needle nose can also work, maybe a needle nose vise grip to get it started. (Think you can assume most folks commenting here have done a few.)

When you finally get it out, you could replace it with an allen head bolt -- might find that easier to work with next time around.

Drink a beer and try it again. (But it would run with the stuck drive shaft....)

 

[racerone]

We know exactly what is involved in this job.---And just not sure why you are having this trouble.

 

[kbait]

While pulling down on the lower unit, move the shift handle and see if there's play at the shift shaft coupler ( moves up and down slightly with handle movement). If it has play, then that's obviously not what's hanging-up, it's the stuck drive shaft. Not uncommon for 9.5's. Keep wedging/forcing until lower unit comes off. Either the d.s. will release, or you'll pull the water pump key through the water pump housing (leaving a notch in housing). If it's the latter, and ds cannot be removed, it is still possible to replace impeller. I have successfully replaced impeller by lining -up the impeller keyway with that notch in waterpump housing, and sliding the works onto the ds with impeller pin already in place on ds. If you have it all lined up correctly, you can then install shift shaft coupler, LU mounting bolts and barrel test. This workaround is likely more palatable than proper fix to release ds from powerhead (powerhead removal ++). Good luck!

 

[Crosbyman]

have you tried flipping the motor upside down and dripping some release agent (loose nut, release all ...) down the drive shaft to try and loosen up the splines. ?


​let it soak a few days and reapply/drip some more release agent ..... soak a few more days flip it upright and try again to drop the gear case

the fish can wait a bit

 

[AlTn]

agree with K..that's actually a wide slot you have already and the d/s isn't up in the crank very far now...some wooden wedges, or possibly some twisting on the lower unit and then a yank should get it down far enough to access the connector screw

 

[81Bronco]

Turns out the driveshaft is stuck (I knew I wasn't going crazy). After a lot of prying, banging, and cussing it finally gave way enough to unscrew the bolt. Which led to more banging in order for it to drop completely. But instead of the driveshaft coming with the lower unit, it stayed in the upper housing. Did this cause any damage? Hope not! Thanks fellas for the help so far

 

[Crosbyman]

the upper O ring may stop any loose nut from entering the spline area but try it anyway


when all fixed up and done..... grease the splines !!

 

[Vic.S]

Turns out the driveshaft is stuck (I knew I wasn't going crazy). After a lot of prying, banging, and cussing it finally gave way enough to unscrew the bolt. Which led to more banging in order for it to drop completely. But instead of the driveshaft coming with the lower unit, it stayed in the upper housing. Did this cause any damage? Hope not! Thanks fellas for the help so far

See what kbait says in #11 about the impeller key pulling through the water pump housing

 

[81Bronco]

Now that I've taken the water pump housing apart I see what kbait is talking about. I'll plan on ordering the new water pump this weekend and pop it in as soon as I can. So I'm picking up that I should leave the driveshaft stuck in the top portion and not worry about releasing it?

 

[Vic.S]

Now that I've taken the water pump housing apart I see what kbait is talking about. I'll plan on ordering the new water pump this weekend and pop it in as soon as I can. So I'm picking up that I should leave the driveshaft stuck in the top portion and not worry about releasing it?

I don't think you will be able to reassemble it with a new pump housing unless you release the drive shaft. In any case It makes sense to release it if you can and grease the splines on reassembly so that next time you need to drop the gearcase unit you can do so without the problems you've had this time.

 

[81Bronco]

Smart man. I'll work on it this weekend and have a follow up. Thanks everyone

 

[interalian]

Due to designed-in play in the assembly, the drive shaft will fit in the motor spline with some space to move upward. When seized in place, you should be able to persuade the shaft upward by tapping the drive shaft upward and that should free it. Protect the bottom end with a hardwood block and don't go nuts pounding on it. Get some penetrant up there - you'll need to invert the engine and let gravity work. You should also be able to rock the shaft a bit, which would help break the bond.