1970 60hp johnson, fails pressure test (leaking seal)

thegipper

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So after a long discussion on this board, I realized the generic "type c" compatible lower unit oil I bought is not compatible with my hydro electric shift 1970 60hp johnson. I wen't to my local dealer and he actually had the premium blend johnson/evinrude oil that is specifically for hydro electric shift for $12/quart.

I bought new plugs and washers while I was there too. I drained out the incorrect fluid and decided I should pressure test it. First a little history though. The guy I bought the motor from had his friend put in a new water pump, gear oil and rebuild/sync the carbs. I can tell that the carbs were in fact rebuilt and the motor runs excellent. I am assuming he did in fact replace the water pump as it runs very cool and spits water well. My fear is that he didn't replace some internal seals while he was in there though.

When I try to pressurize the LU, it doesn't build up any pressure ( I don't turn my pump on for very long) and I can hear a hissing noise in the area that I circled. I sprayed soapy water around the plugs and its not leaking there. It is also not leaking around the prop shaft seals at all, its leaking somewhere internally. The big question is, what seals on the inside of the LU could it be leaking from. Should I buy ALL of the seals that could fail and replace them all? How hard of a job is it to replace all of the seals? Is this something I can do myself? I am no stranger to taking stuff apart but I'm no expert either.

photo259101.jpg

Thanks
 

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racerone

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?------Replacing a waterpump impeller does not automatically involve replacement of any seals.---------None---------I recommend a teardown / inspection and a complete seal kit if all is good mechanically.
 

thegipper

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I just figured while he had it apart, he would have replaced the common seals that you can now get to. I cannot find a complete seal kit online. I can only find the individual parts and I'm not sure exactly which seals I should replace.

As far as removing the LU, in the manual it says you should tie a string to the two wires so that when you need to reinstall it, you can easily pull the wires back through. I know there are like four bolts (i think its just four) that hold the LU on. Do you simply remove them and drop the LU? Any other things I should know?

Any more info/details would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

racerone

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Well there are more than four bolts !-----There should be 7 on your bench to remove the lower unit.
 

thegipper

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That's good to know, I must have been thinking about my 57 evinrude 5.5 that only has four. So remove the bolts, undo the wiring and simply drop it down? Anything else I should know?
 

racerone

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I could tear that unit down and reassemble without a glance at a manual.------Not sure what tools / capability you have.----So work carefully and do not use a hammer.
 

thegipper

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What seals would make that hissing noise in the area that I heard? I'm assuming there can only be so many since I know its not the prop shaft seal and its not the plugs?

Thanks again Racerone
 

Faztbullet

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The noise in that area could be the driveshaft seals or cracked electric shift harness.....
 

thegipper

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I was also thinking drive shaft seals given the area where I *think I am hearing the noise. Noises and there locations can be deceiving though. Since I cannot find a seal kit, should I just order every part on the diagram that has the word "seal" in it? Are there any gaskets that could fail that would allow water in?
 

jimmbo

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I could tear that unit down and reassemble without a glance at a manual.

Unfortunately so do a lot of people who don't understand how the Hydro-Electric shift functions. Oh well for money, just about everything can be fixed
 

racerone

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I have repaired / resealed many of them.---I know how they work.-----I consider them to be very simple to trouble shoot and repair.
 

phillnjack2

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I would listen to racerone, if he has done loads of these then he is the man you should listen to.
myself I would take the water pump off and test it again with an ear close to the water pump housing.
also how much pressure are you testing it with would be a good idea to state, as none of the gearboxes can stand an excessive amount of pressure.
I would only be testing it at around 8 to 10 pounds per square inch. I have seen people think it needs more.

but like I say for a tear down and repair take racerone's advice. he wont put you wrong.
 

jimmbo

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Racer, I wasn't implying you couldn't take them apart and put them back together . But lve seen lots of LU brought in boxes by those who couldn't. I suspect you have too
 
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