Spark plug wires

[Traveno82]

If the voltage goes to zero when connected to the starter, either the battery is bad or the connections are still dirty. Put the voltmeter on the battery post themselves and see what the voltage is after connecting the jumpers. If the battery post reads zero voltage, it is likely a bad battery or a massive short in the starter. That massive of a short in the starter would be unusual, but it is possible.

Does the starter spin by hand?

To be safe, I would jumper from the car battery, when the motor is off. If the motor cranks, get another boat battery.

Cleaned all connections again, tried marine battery, volts dropped to zero when connected to ground and starter post. Used car battery, sparks at starter post when touching but no spiny spin.... Guessing battery is bad as well as the starter needing some love or replacement. Pulled it off, we'll see what I find.

Thanks!
Lee

 

[Traveno82]

No Title

Those are a geared down starter .--------A prudent owner would take the thing apart to grease the gears and bushings.-----------Inspect the brushes and all.

Here's what it looks like, thoughts?

 

[Traveno82]

Sparkplug wires are threaded into the cap.--------Do a compression test before you spend any money !

After no spiny spin I was able to find some larger diameter rope to try and check it by pulling it. I was able to get 90 in all 4 with no "drop/leak" after sitting. Ill have to check the service book when I get home to see what it says about range.
Thanks,
Lee

 

[racerone]

Gauges themselves do not loose pressure !

 

[F_R]

1. Your battery is shot. But to confirm, take it to one of many auto parts stores that will load test it for free. Auto-Zone and Advance are two.
2. There probably is nothing wrong with your starter, but we can't say for absolute sure
3. Sparks and fire flying when you "touch" the cable to the starter post are normal. It is because you are making a terribly lousy connection to a small area. That demonstrates the importance of clean and tight connections.
4. Compression is OK.

 

[Traveno82]

1. Your battery is shot. But to confirm, take it to one of many auto parts stores that will load test it for free. Auto-Zone and Advance are two.
2. There probably is nothing wrong with your starter, but we can't say for absolute sure
3. Sparks and fire flying when you "touch" the cable to the starter post are normal. It is because you are making a terribly lousy connection to a small area. That demonstrates the importance of clean and tight connections.
4. Compression is OK.

Took the battery to oreilys cause they are near the house. Showed 12.4 volts there too but also said 64 min to charge.... I waited for a bit then headed home. He called and said it was indeed bad. I bought some electrical parts cleaner while I was there and took the motor portion of the starter apart and cleaned it good. I put it back on and jumped to the car battery. It spins like it had while on the boat but sounds like crap, grinding'ish(same as when it had spun while on the boat). I never removed the top part that engages the flywheel but will tomorrow when it's not 15 degrees outside or in my garage. Kind of nice though since I'm huddled up by my mr buddy heater working on my boat motor. Smells like ice fishing.
Thanks again,
Lee

 

[racerone]

Inspect gear and bushings in the upper part as already stated.

 

[Traveno82]

Ok. Since I need to get a new battery to move forward what do you guys recommend? Starting one or deep cycle? The electrical system that will be on the boat are nav lights, horn, radio with speakers, and possibly a graph. I have an all season lowrance pack but like the idea of having one just for the boat as well. I also don't "need" a radio as my smart phone would work just fine. No trolling motor either.
Thanks,
Lee

 

[Traveno82]

Inspect gear and bushings in the upper part as already stated.

Took it apart and cleaned it up. Added a little lube to the bendix and it spins/slides up and down really nicely now. After putting that part on as it's separate from the motor I'm thinking the teeth in it and the flywheel might be off a bit. (Flywheel teeth might be worn down preventing a good mesh of the two). Hope to put a he motor back on the starter tomorrow and see how she looks.
Thanks,
Lee

 

[Traveno82]

No Title

Thoughts on the stator condition? I'll do tests on it for resistance, etc. This is just the first boat I've had or worked on so I'm unsure if I should be concerned about the rust, etc. Also, any suggestions on what to use to crimp the new spark plug wire terminals? Checked oreily this am and all they have is a $40 one and I'd like to avoid spending that for a potential one time use...

Thanks again,

Lee

 

[F_R]

That rust won't actually hurt anything, but it won't hurt to clean it up a bit "just because". I've never seen a bad stator in one of those. That doesn't mean it can't happen--it's old enough.

How did your starter gears work out? Just wondering because it is their nature to be noisy.

I'm a bit surprised they still make that crimping tool. The one I used to have back in "the day" dated back into WWII era. Lacking the tool, I'd simply solder the ends on. Do you know how to do that?

 

[Traveno82]

That rust won't actually hurt anything, but it won't hurt to clean it up a bit "just because". I've never seen a bad stator in one of those. That doesn't mean it can't happen--it's old enough.

How did your starter gears work out? Just wondering because it is their nature to be noisy.

I'm a bit surprised they still make that crimping tool. The one I used to have back in "the day" dated back into WWII era. Lacking the tool, I'd simply solder the ends on. Do you know how to do that?

Thanks for the reply! I actually ordered some missing washers, etc for the starter as it was missing some per the diagram. Should be in tomorrow. I've just been cleaning up the main shaft, gear shaft, gear coils, etc while I wait. Tell you what that damn flywheel was a fighter! Thought I was gonna break the harmonic balancer puller I was "renting" from oreilys. The alternator and stator windings all check out per the ohm readings listed in the service manual so I'm extremely happy about that. I was debating pulling it at all but the whole motor was nasty from the get go. Had some sort of bees/wasps living in it. Should I use some emery cloth to clean the rust off or will something more aggressive not be a problem?

I haven't soldered spark plug wires per say but have some basic soldering knowledge having repaired toys/electronics in the past. Any suggestions/pointers?

Thanks again,

Lee

 

[racerone]

The stator and flywheel look fine.---------Make sure the tapers are clean / dry when you re-assemble.---------Torque the nut.

 

[F_R]

I haven't soldered spark plug wires per say but have some basic soldering knowledge having repaired toys/electronics in the past. Any suggestions/pointers?

Thanks again,

Lee

Easy enough, strip some insulation off the end of the wire, fan out the strands, and tin them with rosin core electrical solder. Use sufficient heat, and melt a puddle of solder in the terminal, then stick the wire in, holding the heat on for a couple of seconds. Remove heat and DO NOT move or disturb wire or terminal until it cools. Be careful not to get any solder on the terminal threads.

Realize this method does not give the durability of a crimped terminal, so be gentle screwing it into the cap. Once it is screwed in, it won't come out unless you unscrew it.