Removing steering bracket?

[Alex.L]

Hi,
I've looking and searching high and low for an answer to this. If I've somehow missed it on this forum, I apologize in advance.

Gotten my hands on a 1990 Johnson 15 hp that has been submerged for an unknown time. The engine runs great, but extensive corrosion (not deep) and loose paint all over the place makes it look really bad. So, my question is, can you remove the steering bracket and swivel bracket without removing the powerhead? (For sanding and painting)

Thanks!

 

[racerone]

I think power head has to be removed to get at the upper mounting bolts.---And I believe the shift rod also goes through the pivot tube.

 

[Alex.L]

I think power head has to be removed to get at the upper mounting bolts.---And I believe the shift rod also goes through the pivot tube.

Thanks! As I feared then. I'm a bit anxious about removing the powerhead.

 

[racerone]

Just takes time.----There wll be no surprizes if a fresh water motor.----Have done this sort of work on occasion.

 

[gm280]

Jump in and disassemble as far as you have to. Then sand or remove any loose remaining paint to the metal. I would also try to clean everything first to remove any possible corrosive material that could still remain on it. Then either some Zinc Chromate primer or Self Ethcing (SE) primer and a catylized paint. It would look new again. JMHO

 

[Alex.L]

Jump in and disassemble as far as you have to. Then sand or remove any loose remaining paint to the metal. I would also try to clean everything first to remove any possible corrosive material that could still remain on it. Then either some Zinc Chromate primer or Self Ethcing (SE) primer and a catylized paint. It would look new again. JMHO

Thanks both of you!
I'm quite tempted to do it now. Just one more question. I'm guessing I have to replace at least one gasket if I separate the power head and the lower engine cover? Also, any of you know of a basic guide to disassemble an outboard motor? Been looking at videos on YouTube, but I have not been able to find one.

 

[boobie]

Go to shop.evinrude.com for parts break downs of your motor for better ideas of gaskets.

 

[Alex.L]

So, I've started the process of removing the powerhead.
Anyone know if you have to remove the carburetor and shift lever to be able to lift out the engine? I'm not sure if it's only the gasket keeping it in place or if there is any more things to consider.
I more or less know the exploded views by heart by now, but not everything is clear on them.

 

[racerone]

Remove lower unit first.----Disconnect steering handle assembly.-----Then the 6 bolts ( not all the same length ) that hold block to exhaust housing.------And I believe you can lift it off.

 

[Alex.L]

Remove lower unit first.----Disconnect steering handle assembly.-----Then the 6 bolts ( not all the same length ) that hold block to exhaust housing.------And I believe you can lift it off.

Thanks!
I should have been more clear in my previous post. I've already removed the lowest assembly containing the gears. And also the 6 bolts holding the lower engine casing. I'll continue with the steering handle! Thanks again!

 

[racerone]

Clear posts are very important !!

 

[ezmobee]

Buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-ES-Joh...ash=item43fa28f519:g:CqkAAOSwcUBYQHTJ&vxp=mtr it'll be worth it's weight in gold for you. The OEM service manuals are excellent

 

[Alex.L]

Buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-ES-Joh...ash=item43fa28f519:g:CqkAAOSwcUBYQHTJ&vxp=mtr it'll be worth it's weight in gold for you. The OEM service manuals are excellent

Thanks for the tip!
However, with the shipping and import charges, it's way over 100 usd. But good point, will try and find one closer to home!

 

[oldboat1]

The shift "lever" is actually a plastic piece that attaches to the powerhead (one bolt). It has to be unbolted if you are lifting off the powerhead, but it stays with the pan/midsection along with the shift lever and shaft assembly -- the lever that sticks up vertically on the side.

You can do a very nice paint job without disassembly. You need body putty to get out the scratches after sanding -- and I would use a wire brush to get off that loose paint in tight spots, along with some creative sanding. After a primer coat, you will be able to see marks that need additional sanding or some body putty and sanding (go easy with the putty -- apply with finger tip). You don't have to go to bare metal, and it's actually better if you don't. Again, sanding and putty to fair edges. Zinc chromate on bare aluminum is a good idea, but be careful with it. Regular automotive primer is safer to use, although nothing is without risk (need a good mask).

If removing the powerhead, be aware that the inner exhaust tube come up along with the powerhead (and the powerhead gasket or what's left of it.) If you go that far, it's a good idea to do some service -- the water tube grommets should be replaced as they can cause cooling issues if bent, broken, pinched, or otherwise in bad shape.

Hey -- Good luck with the project!

 

[Alex.L]

The shift "lever" is actually a plastic piece that attaches to the powerhead (one bolt). It has to be unbolted if you are lifting off the powerhead, but it stays with the pan/midsection along with the shift lever and shaft assembly -- the lever that sticks up vertically on the side.

You can do a very nice paint job without disassembly. You need body putty to get out the scratches after sanding -- and I would use a wire brush to get off that loose paint in tight spots, along with some creative sanding. After a primer coat, you will be able to see marks that need additional sanding or some body putty and sanding (go easy with the putty -- apply with finger tip). You don't have to go to bare metal, and it's actually better if you don't. Again, sanding and putty to fair edges. Zinc chromate on bare aluminum is a good idea, but be careful with it. Regular automotive primer is safer to use, although nothing is without risk (need a good mask).

If removing the powerhead, be aware that the inner exhaust tube come up along with the powerhead (and the powerhead gasket or what's left of it.) If you go that far, it's a good idea to do some service -- the water tube grommets should be replaced as they can cause cooling issues if bent, broken, pinched, or otherwise in bad shape.

Hey -- Good luck with the project!

Thank you so much for the information!
I don't think I'll go with zinc chromate, partly because of the hazardous part and partly because I can't get hold of it here in Sweden. I'm leaning towards etching primer atm, with epoxy primer as backup.
Unfortunately the market on paints and primers here is much smaller than in the US and the prices much higher.

Edit: also, spare parts are a nightmare.

 

[racerone]

Spare parts are easy to get for these motors.----Many folks have boxes full and will ship to you after the money issue is taken care of.

 

[Alex.L]

Spare parts are easy to get for these motors.----Many folks have boxes full and will ship to you after the money issue is taken care of.

In the US or Canada perhaps. And sure, you can get spare parts shipped from all over the world. But then again, it's not really worth paying hundreds of dollars on an outboard like this.
What I ment was more in the line of the economic part = nightmare.

 

[racerone]

Around here you can get parts motors for next to nothing.-----Shipping expenses are not really that outrageous.

 

[Alex.L]

Around here you can get parts motors for next to nothing.-----Shipping expenses are not really that outrageous.

Really? Cool, didn't know that they were so cheap! Will keep that in mind, thanks

 

[Alex.L]

To follow up on the last post. Do anyone know of a good webstore(with international shipping) where I could find parts? Seems I'm having some trouble finding grommets for the outboard.

On another note, the powerhead is now off and everything is going smoothly (so far). Thanks for all the help so far!

Edit: Haha never mind, just realized that iboat was a store as well. Duuh...
Edit 2: On the other hand, they want $3900 for shipping one grommet and one gasket. Must be something wrong here.