Engine wont go over 2500-3000 RPMS. 94 jOHNS 150 Fast Strike

Speakrdude

Ensign
Joined
Feb 25, 2004
Messages
942
So, all of the sudden, (after I recently changed the oil tank, plugs, new "gray" wires.) Took it out (double oiled, just in case)
​Ran great all day!
Then, a couple of weeks later, I replaced all 6 leaky carb bowls. Yes, I bled the oil line.

Every once in a while, over the years, I would get a low oil or fuel psi warning every once in a while. (beep 1/2 sec., every two seconds, faster with higher rpms) Turn off, restart, goes away for the day, Typically.

But now, after disconnecting both temp sensors, and verifying water temp, still seems to be in S.L.O.W. mode. So I've ordered and received a new power pack, but have not opened the box yet.

​I decided to do some more testing with my DVM today, (diode etc) and after disconnecting/removing, all three of the dual coils, I've discovered that one of the coils is reading 2500 ohms from primary to secondary, either direction, and all 5 of the other coils read 280 ohms. I am about to order a new one but wanted to hear some other opinions, just in case. I suppose if it was only running on 5 cylinders, maybe the S.L.O.W. circuit would kick in or just run lake crap anyway?

Thanks,
​Jim
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Slow mode is only engaged by the pack if one of the sensors indicates it needs to be in slow mode, or the wires to and drom the sensor give a false reading or if the pack is faulty and thinks it is getting a bad reading.

With that said, i am not sure one bad coil would replicate slow mode but it may seem that way to some folks.

So, i guess the question is wether or not slow is engaged.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,148
Ign coil specs for my '98 Johnny 150V6 call for secondary resistance to be 275 +/- 50 ohms, so your one coil is bad. I would replace that and retest prior to installing the new power pack.
 

Speakrdude

Ensign
Joined
Feb 25, 2004
Messages
942
Thanks Chris. That's exactly what I am doing. Received the new coil yesterday. Will test first thing Saturday. (or Friday, if I can play hooky!)
 

Speakrdude

Ensign
Joined
Feb 25, 2004
Messages
942
Nope. Replaced coil. Replaced power pak. Replaced plugs, again, same problem.
This all started the day after I replaced all 6 fuel bowls. Im thinkin tomorrow, I may remove them and inspect.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
whats the model #?

I think there are orifices in those bowls, did you switch them over?
 

reiddo1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 17, 2012
Messages
166
So, all of the sudden, (after I recently changed the oil tank, plugs, new "gray" wires.) Took it out (double oiled, just in case)
​Ran great all day!
Then, a couple of weeks later, I replaced all 6 leaky carb bowls. Yes, I bled the oil line.

Every once in a while, over the years, I would get a low oil or fuel psi warning every once in a while. (beep 1/2 sec., every two seconds, faster with higher rpms) Turn off, restart, goes away for the day, Typically.

But now, after disconnecting both temp sensors, and verifying water temp, still seems to be in S.L.O.W. mode. So I've ordered and received a new power pack, but have not opened the box yet.

​I decided to do some more testing with my DVM today, (diode etc) and after disconnecting/removing, all three of the dual coils, I've discovered that one of the coils is reading 2500 ohms from primary to secondary, either direction, and all 5 of the other coils read 280 ohms. I am about to order a new one but wanted to hear some other opinions, just in case. I suppose if it was only running on 5 cylinders, maybe the S.L.O.W. circuit would kick in or just run lake crap anyway?

Thanks,
​Jim

Had similar problems with my 2000 Johnson 150 Oceanpro last year for no understandable reason as I had made no replacements at all other than changing the plugs. Read somewhere on this site that you must be carefull to run the temperature switch wires as far away from the Spartk plug wires as possible. Followed that by even splicing in sections of temperature switch wire and the problem immediately went and stayed away. The explanation on the article I read was that the wires can pick up RF signals from the spark plug wires and cause the problem. Don't know how credible this is but it worked for me. Hope this helps.
 

Speakrdude

Ensign
Joined
Feb 25, 2004
Messages
942
Well, crapola! I just looked up the diagram, and sure enuff, there is a high speed orifice in the drain screw area of the bowl! (oops) Threw those away!
Thanks for pointing that out Jake! The model, by the way, is J150GLERV,
 
Last edited:

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Use the model # and a factory parts blow up to order the proper orifices. You can look it up at brp . Com certainly.
 
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