My Hydro-Electric Shift Switch Solution - Hope it helps someone!!

[jbuote]

I hope that this post may help someone, somewhere, someday....
So my shift switch in my remote broke for my '71 50hp Johnson Hydro-Electric (Not pure Electric shift.. Be careful... There's a difference).

Casing was cracked and wires were junk, so it HAD to be replaced...

I searched online and found that the original switch was VERY expensive. So much so, that I started looking for used remotes that would have the switch in it!
I'd have felt better spending 250-300 bucks for a whole remote rather than just the switch.
I'm sure I'll find one eventually, but I saw posts about putting a toggle switch in place for shifting and it got me thinking...

Here's what I came up with!
A way to replace the switch economically and everything is STILL self contained in the remote!

NOTE: This will probably be a multi-part post, so bear with me...

If your remote looks like mine, this should work for you too!
This remote has the friction lock ONLY on top, and the choke toggle switch under the ignition switch....
Here's the cover of my remote (Had already separated the halves):

 

[jbuote]

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Original inside Wiring:

 

[jbuote]

I ordered 2 switches...

An ignition switch (mine was iffy, but even if yours isn't, it's not that expensive.)

 

[jbuote]

And a rotary switch.. 2 Position, Off, On, 2On

 

[jbuote]

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Then, I removed original ignition AND choke switch. I wired the choke back into the push to choke ignition INSTEAD of the toggle switch...

 

[jbuote]

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Then, I wired up the rotary switch to the shift wires.
Rotary legs are powered where off is No power, 45deg is L2 leg, 90deg is L1+L2 legs.

Purple to the batt side, (only had 1 leg on it..)
Green (Neutral) to L2
Blue (Reverse) to L1

​Then I installed the switch where the Choke toggle USED to be. Fit right in!!

 

[jbuote]

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You must be careful to allow enough room using the attaching nuts between the faceplate and the shift switch to allow the casings to be re-assembled properly...

Then just put the casing back together and you have a self contained solution.
I put the knob on the shift switch such that straight up and down (pointing to the key) is NEUTRAL.
45deg Left is Forward.
45deg Right is Reverse.

Here it is put back together.

That's all there was to it.
I REALLY hope this helps someone someday, and if anyone has improvement ideas, or constructive criticism I welcome it, but until then,

Enjoy, and Happy Boating!!

Joe

 

[boobie]

I guess using this set up isn't much different than having push buttons. And it's much cheaper. Good Job !!

 

[interalian]

I have one question. The switch says it's OFF-ON-2ON. Sounds like a light switch where ON just turns on the anchor light and 2ON turns on the running lights as well as the anchor light. Have you tested yet?

 

[jbuote]

Thanks boobie!!


​interalian,
While I admit I haven't run the engine with this setup yet, I did use my meter to verify continuity and it all specs out like it should.
Off is no power to green or blue (Forward)
On is power to green only (Neutral)
2On is power to both green and blue (Reverse)

Metered the solenoids too, got 6ohms each. That's 2amps current in Neutral and about 4amps in Reverse. Switch is rated for 20amp if memory serves, so the switch should more than handle the 5amp max that'll be put through it.

Sound right to you or are you thinking I may have overlooked something or got something askew here?

Still learning!! ​

 

[boobie]

Get out there and try it and let us know how it works which I think will be okay.

 

[boobie]

The light switch idea doesn't sound to bad either. Depends on what amps it will carry.

 

[F_R]

jbuote, I must admit that is a very clever solution to an otherwise very expensive problem. Good job!! A warning to anybody that might be considering doing it on a motor with Electrictramatic Shift though,,a different switch (SPDT) would be required. This one would damage the motor.

 

[F_R]

I like it that you found and chose a rotary switch. It takes an intentional act to operate it. Unlike a toggle switch that can be nudged or bumped and maybe cause an accident.

 

[jbuote]

Yes, I think what I ordered in the link above is listed as a possible light switch. The Rotoswitches are all rated at 20amps as far as I could tell.

​They come in all flavors if you will, and are available here on iboats.
That's where I found them! LOL

F_R,

​I too loved the idea of the rotary switch for just that reason! I can't "Accidentally" shift it by bumping it! lol....

They have Off/On/2On which Is what I used for the "Hydro-Electric" engine, but they also have On/Off/On which I BELIEVE would work for the straight "Electric/Selectric" where power to green is forward and power to blue is reverse, power to NONE is Neutral.

(I think I have that right, but that's not my engine so don't take my word.)

Point is, I believe this setup would work for other electric type shifting as well just AS LONG as the correct Rotoswitch or equivalent were used..



Make sense? ​

 

[F_R]

Makes sense

 

[boobie]

Have you tried yours out yet ???

 

[jbuote]

Hey boobie!

​Yes, I did... I got forward, neutral and reverse. All working!

I can't get her started consistently, but I think that's adjustments and getting to know the quirks of how to start this "New to me" engine..

Now that shifting is fixed, I can make more attempts to get her running reliably without worrying about starting in gear or not.. ​

 

[boobie]

Super Good Job !!!!