1959 Johnson Seahorse 10HP QD-20

[CPW1]

I was given an old boat, so I decided to make it a project and try to get it running. It sat for about 25 years. When I got it home, I decided to tear into the motor. I replaced, the coils, condensers and points. The plugs looked good. After cleaning everything up and installing the new stuff (see photos), I had good spark. I then rebuilt the old pressurized tank (see photos) and it works! My next step was to add fuel (24:1) ratio and try firing it up. It fired up! Yes, it fired, but it smoked really bad. I started it a few times for less than 30 seconds each time. When I hit the kill button the last time I started it, I was unable to get it started again. I checked the plugs and I have no spark again...

I've attached before and after photos and a video of it running. It didn't sound good. My questions are:

1) Does this thing look/sound like it's fixing?
2) Any ideas on why so much smoke?
3) Why did I lose spark?

Video wouldn't attach. I'll try again later...

Thank you in advance!

CPW

 

[oldboat1]

nicely done. Probably need to clean and regap points, and make sure the wire-to-coil contact is solid.

Replace the impeller.

 

[kbait]

Disconnect kill switch and check spark again.

 

[RCO]

Give it a compression check. If it has good even compression, it's worth spending some time on IMO. Check the kill switch for continuity for the spark issue, if that's OK recheck your points. Smoke is pretty normal, especially if you are running in a bucket. Definitely replace the impeller, and tear the carb down and give it a thorough cleaning. Might as well replace the LU seals while you have it apart for the impeller change. Those are great reliable motors once you have them dialed in.

 

[CPW1]

Thank you all for the responses. Looks like I'll keep trying then! I'll check the points, although I just put the new ones in and had all the gaps set to specs. If the points don't do it, I'll disconnect the kill switch. I'll also replace the impeller...There was water coming out of the pee hole though. If you would like to see it run, let m know and I can send you a link to the video...There's a ton of smoke, and yes it's in a bucket.

Thanks again. I'll update you when I can find a little time to do it,

 

[lindy46]

Did you clean the points? New points need to be cleaned to remove any oily residue. Use acetone on a strip of business card stock and run it through the points. Also, replace the plugs with Champion J4C or J6C.

 

[CPW1]

I didn't clean the points, but I had really good spark... I'll do it. Thanks!

 

[oldboat1]

This source might be useful: http://www.fiberglassics.com/wiki/images/2/2a/Evinrudeservice001.pdf (from the stickies up at the top of the forum). Along with points and kill switch, there are a couple of other things to check (recheck) -- wire connections at the coils, and the spring clips in the plug boots. Coil and spring clips have to contact the inner wire core. (BTW, you need the plug wire with the wire core, not automotive style wires.)

As you have lost spark on both plugs, pull the flywheel and check the key. If the flywheel wasn't torqued down firmly enough, the key could be sheared which can result in loss of spark. (Check the fiberglassics reference for torque values.) When you have the flywheel off, check the magnets as well -- dangle a small screwdriver and see if the magnets are strong.

 

[CPW1]

Good info. Thank you. I have work to do...It will all be worth it.

 

[Chinewalker]

You're running a 24:1 mix - it's gonna smoke. It'll appear like a lot more when you're running it in a barrel.

Concur with above on the spark issue. Double check point gap. Measure with the cam rider aligned with the keyway on the crankshaft. Also, is the cam wiper in place? It's the fiber wick that's clamped under one of the coils and leaves a film of oil on the cam. If it's not in place, the points will close up fairly quickly due to wear to the rider.

 

[OMCfan]

Just a little FYI, a lot of outboard mechanics will complain about your 24:1 fuel mix being too rich and smoking too much. They will then proceed to tell you to run a 50:1 mix. Their common reasoning is that with modern synthetic oils you simply do not need to run such a rich mixture. Do not follow that advice. These older motors do need the lubrication because they do not have the modern bearings of today's motors.

They mean well but they are advising out of ignorance.

 

[CPW1]

This source might be useful: http://www.fiberglassics.com/wiki/images/2/2a/Evinrudeservice001.pdf (from the stickies up at the top of the forum). Along with points and kill switch, there are a couple of other things to check (recheck) -- wire connections at the coils, and the spring clips in the plug boots. Coil and spring clips have to contact the inner wire core. (BTW, you need the plug wire with the wire core, not automotive style wires.)

As you have lost spark on both plugs, pull the flywheel and check the key. If the flywheel wasn't torqued down firmly enough, the key could be sheared which can result in loss of spark. (Check the fiberglassics reference for torque values.) When you have the flywheel off, check the magnets as well -- dangle a small screwdriver and see if the magnets are strong.

oldboat1, you were exactly right! The flywheel wasn't torqued down properly. In fact, I think I totally forgot to tighten it all. I guess I was too excited to add the fuel and start it. The key WAS sheared!!! I'll order a new one for $8 and do the other requested items (clean carb, re-set and clean points, new spark plugs and replace impeller and possibly LU seals).

The fiber wick is in tact and I'll keep the fuel ratio at 24:1.

I'll start it again using a bucket of water and if it runs decent (I expect it will), I'll take it out on the open lake for a test run and report back.

Thank you all for your help! Lots of knowledge on this site and very helpful people...Much appreciated!

CPW

 

[oldboat1]

Well done, CPW -- glad you caught it. When you get ready to reinstall the flywheel, good to use a little lapping compound on the shaft and inside the flywheel, and clean up with some alcohol. (Or just check the shaft and flywheel with your finger tip, and if smooth to the touch just clean up with some alcohol before reassembly -- want it to be free of any grease or oil.)

Find the biggest test barrel you can (plastic trash cans are pretty good), and sink it deep for testing. Good idea to keep the hose running, too, and just run at idle or fast idle. All sounds good.

 

[CPW1]

Okay, I'm pulling the lower unit off to replace the impeller. On this model, I don't think I need to remove the power head. I think I just need to disconnect the shift rod connector. Is that true? I couldn't find any information other than a thread on iboats discussing a 1959 Evinrude 10hp...this is a Johnson. After I removed the 4 bolts, it doesn't slide down very far and I can't see the shift rod connector. Is there a secret to this?

Also, while I'm doing all of this, should I replace the thermostat?

Thank you all again.

 

[CPW1]

Okay, I'm pulling the lower unit off to replace the impeller. On this model, I don't think I need to remove the power head. I think I just need to disconnect the shift rod connector. Is that true? I couldn't find any information other than a thread on iboats discussing a 1959 Evinrude 10hp...this is a Johnson. After I removed the 4 bolts, it doesn't slide down very far and I can't see the shift rod connector. Is there a secret to this?

Also, while I'm doing all of this, should I replace the thermostat?

Thank you all again.

I quoted myself! So I found the little side plate that gives me access to the shift rod connector. I removed the plate and removed the shift rod connector bolts, but I still can't get the lower unit to drop. I didn't put a lot of pressure on it because I don't want to break anything. Still looking for the magic trick for disconnecting the lower unit.

Thank You.

 

[Chinewalker]

Only need to remove the lower connector bolt. A bit of force won't hurt anything - the brass clamp of the connector sometimes doesn't want to give up its grip, even with bolt removed. Also, the water tube sometimes takes hold in the old, dried out rubber grommets that it seats into. Worst case - your driveshaft is stuck in the crankshaft - that's a whole other ball of wax...

 

[CPW1]

Only need to remove the lower connector bolt. A bit of force won't hurt anything - the brass clamp of the connector sometimes doesn't want to give up its grip, even with bolt removed. Also, the water tube sometimes takes hold in the old, dried out rubber grommets that it seats into. Worst case - your driveshaft is stuck in the crankshaft - that's a whole other ball of wax...

I just tapped it with a rubber mallet a couple times and it worked!
Thank You.

 

[CPW1]

The impeller actually looks like it's in good shape, but I 'll replace anyway. Question though.... I took the thermostat cover off just to look at it and I discovered there is no thermostat in it. Is this normal? Should I get a thermostat and install it it?

Also any recommendation on what type of oil to fill up the lower unit?

 

[HighTrim]

Yes replace the t stat.

Lots of different brands of hypoid gear oil or 80W-90 outboard gear oil to choose from. Change the crush washers, they are a 1 time use. Fill from the bottom drain hole, until it exits the top vent hole. Replace vent hole screws, remove pump from lower drain hole, and install drain screw.

 

[CPW1]

Okay, so I'm making progress on this project. So far I have replaced the following:

1) Coils
2) Points
3) Condensers
4) Spark Plugs
5) Thermostat
6) Impeller
7) Lower Unit Gear Oil
8) Rebuilt the original pressurized tank and new fuel lines

I figured since I'm at it, I would rebuild the carb. I ordered a kit ($28) and it has a bunch of small gaskets/washers, new "plugs" etc. I removed the carb, but haven't started disassembling it yet. It looks like the kit has a lot more parts included in it than what I actually need.

My question, is do I need to replace everything? I was planning on replacing the main (larger) gaskets, the float, the needle/seat and basically cleaning it with carb cleaner and reassembling it. Do they always include extra parts? Since I haven't disassembled yet, maybe there really aren't extra parts... Any advice on what the most important parts to replace are, or just any advice prior to taking it apart. I don't want to open a can of worms... It doesn't look like there's much to adjust when it's put back together...

After the carb rebuild, I should be good to go... Thank you all again!