Evinrude 35hp 1957 won't start

krazykooter

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Dec 3, 2015
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Ok I will look for what your talking about soon my starter took a crap on me again looks like I need brushes for it there just seems to be no end insight for this motor the fuel pump was mounted in correct position so since the carb is off I might head to my boat mechanic and see if he has the correct float for the carb the kit I ordered didn't come with the correct float...so I will be looking into the standpipe as you point out once everything is torn apart again...
 

oldboat1

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sorry to hear about the starter issues.

See it's a 30hp carb (filter bowl would be attached -- feeds the carb direct, yes?) The bowl has to seal, and the filter needs to be clear, if there is one in place (can always try running without it). That black hose in your last pic is presumably from the pressure fitting -- might check to be sure your plug isn't leaking.

Hope you get it solved. (If repeated attempts to start, maybe a battery issue rather than the starter(?))
 

krazykooter

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Dec 3, 2015
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All things above will be checked out soon been busy with other things and I took a mental health break from the motor a few days.. I will update my progress and fill yah in weather it be successful or failure... I give thanks to everyone's advice...
 

krazykooter

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Dec 3, 2015
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Update.... Ok I'm switching the motorhead back to a 30hp I found hopefully picking up the parts motor tomorrow if all goes well.. It's a Johnson RD-18e looks in rough shape but the compression test reads 118 & 115 so again I will be rebuilding the entire motor over the carb now has a washer where the main jet seats into the float in the carb has been modded so it will no longer pitch when it's in the carb (bit of sanding and using nail polish to seal it) I hope the powerhead from this main engine would solve my issues plus I really didn't like getting bait and switch on the Green power head missed labeled as a 35hp the parts motor has a ton of other parts I could use in the future so I figured since I'm in deep love with working on this motor why not have spare parts in hand?.. Guess I'm a gutton for punishment for working on this so much...
 

krazykooter

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Dec 3, 2015
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Update:
Used the carb off the parts motor cleaned till it started to sparkle. Set both needles 1 turn out after seating (mechanic recommended) then slapped her back on... After one crank she purrs like a kitten... My only issue now is when you throttle to WOT she bogs I now have an inverse problem then what I was dealing with... Don't get me wrong but I was happier then a pig in crap when she started that way😍But my question now is which needle do I start with to fine tune it... The hard parts have been done so far now it's just the little things I need advice on I really can't thank you guys enough on your advice before it did help out a lot...
 

hardwater fisherman

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Look in the top secret files, under the heading how do I adjust my carbs. It is the first thread in this forum. I think you start with the high speed first.
 

lindy46

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Nov 27, 2008
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Update:
Used the carb off the parts motor cleaned till it started to sparkle. Set both needles 1 turn out after seating (mechanic recommended) then slapped her back on... After one crank she purrs like a kitten... My only issue now is when you throttle to WOT she bogs I now have an inverse problem then what I was dealing with... Don't get me wrong but I was happier then a pig in crap when she started that way😍But my question now is which needle do I start with to fine tune it... The hard parts have been done so far now it's just the little things I need advice on I really can't thank you guys enough on your advice before it did help out a lot...

Did you put in a carb kit or just clean it? Are you running WOT on the lake? (Hopefully not in a bucket!). Initial settings: 3/4 turn out for high speed (lower needle) and 1.5 turns out for slow speed. Fine tune the high speed on the lake at WOT, then idle down and adjust the slow speed.
 

krazykooter

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Dec 3, 2015
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The carb I just cleaned it very very thorough I mean if I cleaned it any better I would have to use a demel and polish it wit a buffing pad.. All jets where removed both parts took a bath and scrub in acetone once rebuilt oiled & lightly grease all moving parts except jet needle under float arm... Initial test of engine start was in tub. 1st in neutral then idled down to throw into gear then under load tried to throttle up only to quickly empty tub then shut off immediately that is what happened in detail.. I know these tests have to be done on the water to fine tune it. I'm just new on outboard mechanics and I'm learning quite fast after trial and error... So this is my 1st fine tune of a carb... All seals on the carb checked out ok (no leaks) the float jet checked out fine when it wasn't filled by blowing air into the gas inlet and turning it upside down to see if it sealed and flipping it to see if air blew thru freely passages seem to be fine my cheeks didn't explode while doing this... My 1st action is going to remove the fiber filter in the gas filter section... I really would like to find brand new needles especially for the low speed one seems that is the one that seems to wear a bit more then the lower high speed one. Weather is a bit crappy today so I'm calling off taking her out on the river or lake to do the adjustments.
 

lindy46

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Well, give it a try on the lake and see how she runs. Hopefully she will be ok. If you run into carb problems, I'd get a kit and install new seals and packing. There are also fine holes under the welch plug on top of the carb which get clogged, and the only way to clean them is to remove the welch plug. That is the idle circuit. The replacement plug is in the kit.
 

krazykooter

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Dec 3, 2015
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Guess your talking about the 3 little holes on the top backside of the carb... I was wondering on how to clean those out... So I assume you pry the top plug out then poke a wire thru to clean out them holes to be clear... I just didn't mess with that part of the carb my reason is it looked clear and I didn't want to damage the carb body.. If anyone can fill me in on how to get that plug out that would help me on clearing out them for now I've got the motor running blowing a lot of blue smoke due to Crap Mart oil my mechanic advised me blue smoke is way better then no smoke reason is "A spark plug is $3-5 bucks the motorhead costs hundreds more..."

As for packing washers I used grey Neoprene washers filed them down to size and they worked like a charm.. I was looking for those packing washer everywhere over the net and couldn't find them so I figured to fabricate them instead... The next gasket I need to find is the headgasket for this motor I want to change it for peace of mind from what I see the 25 & 30hp headgaskets are a rare gasket to aquire? I wonder why they did make 750k of these motors in their production run?
 
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interalian

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I pop the welch plugs out using a punch - drive it in until it catches and then pry the plug out. The pro mechanics I worked with had flat screwdrivers ground to a 30 degree point which they drove in at an angle then twisted. Replacement is a matter of putting the new plug in, dome up, and flattening with a drift or a socket extension.
 

lindy46

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Nov 27, 2008
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I drill a small hole through the plug (careful not to hit the carb body below) and then pry it out with a small optical screwdriver. This destroys the plug so you need a replacement. The carb kit (without float) is available right here at Iboats for around $18 - has all the parts. Try it out first and see how she runs as-is.
 

krazykooter

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Dec 3, 2015
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So far while running in tub motor is idling nice and smooth once it revs up to WOT the engine bucks I haven't taken her out just yet but I figure try my best to tune in tub then do very fine adjustments on the water the 25hp powerhead really doesn't have a powerband like the 30hp I love to put a tach on it to find out what are the Rpms this way I can get closer to what the engine needs to peak at.. Knowing it 4000 Rpms by ear I'm trying my best...but knowing is half the battle...
 
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