Crossflow horn warning, overheat issue?

bscappell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Mar 29, 2010
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Just got done swapping powerheads on a 1986 Evinrude crossflow. The powerhead is now a 1982. I used the ignition from the 1986 as the 1982 was a mess. I had rebuilt the water pump as well.

Started it up but no H20 flowing from tell tale. I had a "buddy" help me do the water pump so I checked that and sure enough the impeller key was busted and the new impeller was not installed correctly (twisted in clockwise and stead of counterclockwise) I brought the impeller to my local shop and to see if i needed a new one and they said it appeared to be in usable condition. Reinstalled properly and used plenty of soap to lube the impeller. tell tale worked!!!

well after about a minute the motor seemed to start running a little rough and the water coming out of the tell tale pulsed hot and warm. Motor was hot to the touch. A remote alarm of quick beeping started and I shut the engine down.

I assumed it was a overheat issue but looking into the audible warning of the system it appears that the beeping warning is a VRO or oil issue (VRO has been disabled). that doesn't make sense.

Be that as it may I am wondering if the impeller is shot, even though the shop thought it looked ok. Can the tell still work even if the impeller isn't functioning as it should?

Other ideas? What am i overlooking?
 

interalian

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Jul 23, 2009
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2,105
Do you know if the powerhead you used was good?

If the water pump is working properly, you'll get water pressure to the indicator. Output should be cool only as it taps off at the start of the cooling system. Might have issues with thermostats or bleed holes in the thermostat spacer, or bad diverter rubbers in the block around the cylinders.
 

bscappell

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The previous owner was able to turn it over and show compression. Owner said the power packs were bad so i did not see it run. It was a salt motor and did has corrosive buildup in some of the water channels. Brought it to a shop as I was concerned about it and they said it should be ok...... Maybe this is the problem.
 

interalian

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I'd check the thermostats and bleed holes first - as it's a salt motor, you may have fun with siezed fasteners.
 

emdsapmgr

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Dec 9, 2005
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If the water pump is any good, you should have strong pressure at the telltale. It is possible that the telltale is plugged up. Did you clear the telltale hose and check the opening of the telltale nozzle in the lower cowl? Sometimes they will plug up, and will act like yours. (you can use some weedwhacker line to clear the telltale hose.) Till you know you have strong water pressure at the hose barb on the powerhead, I wouldn't look to the thermostat housing yet. You don't hear a hot horn yet, so borrow a laser temp gun and see just what the powerhead temps are. Should be 143-154 at idle.
 

bscappell

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Mar 29, 2010
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I made sure the telltale was cleared. It is. Took the hose off and made sure it was cleared. Took the fitting out of the powerhead and made sure it was clear.

I grounded out the 2 temp sensors on the powerhead with the key on and they made the solid horn noise. the horn sounds for a short bit when the key is engaged. Still doesn't Make sense why the VRO horn would be sounding since i dont have the VRO system installed nor do i have the VRO fuel pump.

Went up to a boat mechanic shop and gave him the rundown. He said similar things. check the temp of the heads. Might be the thermostat but he didn't think it would be. Also said might be worth running the motor and pulling out spark plugs one at a time to see if water comes out or if the temps decrease indicating a leaking head......that make sense?

At any rate i am going to pick up a temp gun now then test the temps on each side and if or when the alarm sounds pull off the temp sensors and see if it stops. If not then it might be a short or the horn itself? IDK.

then i will pull the thermostat and see what creatures lurk in there.....
 

w2much

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Also if you can run it in a barrel instead of the hose and ear setup. This may help you determine water pump problem.
 

bscappell

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Also if you can run it in a barrel instead of the hose and ear setup. This may help you determine water pump problem.


I did run it in the river last night. was peeing fine it seemed. did take a little longer to have the horn go off.
 

w2much

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But the horn did go off even though submerged. I suspect water pump as you claimed it take longer for the alarm. Heck you should replace the impeller if not the water pump anyway. If you have a drill with a big enough chuck you can put the lu in a barrel and go forward to see your water pumps performance. Weak or strong
 

bscappell

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But the horn did go off even though submerged. I suspect water pump as you claimed it take longer for the alarm. Heck you should replace the impeller if not the water pump anyway. If you have a drill with a big enough chuck you can put the lu in a barrel and go forward to see your water pumps performance. Weak or strong

The pump and impeller were replace but I suspect being it wasn't installed right the first time it may have been damaged.

Find the proper socket size and spin the shift to see if it will pump water? Is that what u mean?
 

bscappell

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I just did a test run with the infrared gage and port side top of cylinder was 165 or so. Starboard side was climbing into 200 plus so I stopped. I also noticed that I need to adjust the carbs as they are a little open making the motor run at higher rpm. Adjust that and try again. Would like to trip the horn then unhook the temp sensors and see if one side or the other turns off....
 

bscappell

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So I learned a couple of things this morning. I got the carbs synced up and brought the idle down. If you watch the video you will see the tell tail isn't strong and the temp on one side of the motor is much higher than the other, although both sides are elevated. Also once the horn went off i unplugged the starboard side temp sensor and the horn turned off. Even though the horn is doing a rapid beeping it seems to be tied in with that sensor. SO:

The horn seemed to be tied into the temp sensor.
the impeller seems to not functioning correctly
the temps are definitely elevated on both side but one is much higher than the other.


I will replace the impeller and test again

anything else at this time? I will report back once the new impeller is installed.
 

bscappell

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Mar 29, 2010
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Update:

new impeller. does seem to be more consistent and the heads aren't heating up quite as fast BUT I'm still getting too high of reading on both, with the starboard side really being trouble. I did not let it run long enough this time to trigger the horn. video shows tell tail and the temps.

The shop near me said it could be clogged cooling ports in the heads.

I am thinking i will check the thermostat first before trying to get into the heads and do that business. thoughts?
 

Fed

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Apr 1, 2010
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Out of curiosity I'd run it with the thermostat hoses disconnected while checking temps & flow.
If it runs cool then look at the stats but if it still runs hot then pull the heads and head covers.
 

interalian

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Out of curiosity I'd run it with the thermostat hoses disconnected while checking temps & flow.
If it runs cool then look at the stats but if it still runs hot then pull the heads and head covers.

What he said. If it still overheats, look for swolen diverter rubbers or clogged waterjacket (silt/salt).



 

bscappell

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 29, 2010
Messages
132
Out of curiosity I'd run it with the thermostat hoses disconnected while checking temps & flow.
If it runs cool then look at the stats but if it still runs hot then pull the heads and head covers.

thermostats were indeed dirty. bleed holes clogged as well. lots of rock salt ha! runs MUCH COOLER now!!!! thanks all
 
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