1978 Evinrude 2hp Mate Runs Rough at High Speeds (4-strokes, no power)

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sbbloom69

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HI,
Inherited a 1978 2hp Mate. Not too many hours. Read many posts, similar but not the same as my symptoms. I have a Service Manual and parts list. I used a timing light with external battery to check timing.

I rebuilt carb (new kit, with new float, needles, float needle, cleaned it at least 4 times (I restore old multi-carbed motorcycles, so know my way around carbs). I was meticulous about checking passages and broken needle tips.
Float height set parallel.
New Plug
New Plug Cap
Cleaned tank and tank filter
New fuel line
Good gas flow
Vent not closed (always check)
New points (gap set per service manual, then adjusted a little to get timing marks right)
New condenser
Adjusted gap and checked timing (was a little advanced, so adjusted gap a little to get timing mark into correct spot.
Adjusted carb to open at marks on timing / throttle plate
Water pump replaced, mists water out just fine. Temp check at head while running OK
New fuel and oil mix (I usually use ethanol free premium)

Motor starts fine with light choke. Idles great. Runs good after warmup, up to the "start" mark on throttle plate. If I accelerate up to full speed from slow, engine speeds up nicely, then immediately starts to 4-stroke and slows down about 20%. Slow jet around 1.25 turns. Rinse, Lather, Repeat. I can slow down, let it settle, then speed up again, same symptom: accelerates smoothly, the starts to 4-stroke, and slows down 20%.

Here's the kicker. I get the best high RPM with the high speed needle CLOSED to 1/16 a turn open. Any richer, and the motor slows down and 4-strokes worse. BTW, I did think that the little washer/seal that connects the float bowl tube above the high speed jet to the carb body wasn't sealing. I put a bigger one in to make sure it sealed when the float bowl screws were tightened. Didn't seem to matter. Seems to be too rich at high speed (4-stroking).

The only things I haven't checked or changed are the reed valves, the coil, and the shaft seals. I just ordered reed valves and will try and replace them this weekend. I seem to have great blue spark. Engine starts easily, even with a rope on the flywheel.

On the 3rd and 4th carb cleanings, I checked really carefully for blocked passages and broken needle tips anywhere. I'm going to pull the carb and clean it again, since I have to pull it to change the reeds.

Any other ideas? My brother says I should go for one of those $99 rebuilt carbs on Ebay. I might try it. I've gotten lots of old outboards running, including 3 British Seagulls this summer.

This little Evinrude has me stumped. Oh, I'm at 6500 feet altitude, so I know about jetting and altitude effects. The slow and high speed jets should compensate (but you never get the horsepower back).

Any ideas to check would be appreciated. I guess bad reeds or leaky seals could cause my symptoms. Running out of things to check.

Stu
Los Alamos, NM
 

sbbloom69

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I can check the compression, will try Friday, when I get home. What's the normal range? I don't remember a spec in my service manual.
 

sbbloom69

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I just checked mine. I got 92 psi. So, I'm thinking compression is "OK". I ordered and just installed a new reed. My old one "looked" ok, but I changed it anyway. I did a check valve check on the old one and the new one. After I pulled the reed cover off the crankcase, I cleaned the intake manifold and gently blew and sucked the intake. Obviously it passes into the case. When sucked, the old one leaked a tiny bit. The new one didn't leak back at all. I can't see this as the problem, but it is a difference.

Also, my brother (small engine mechanic) says I should find a way to check the shaft seals. Don't know what else to check.
 

sbbloom69

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Also, I pulled and completely disassembled the carb and cleaned it again. I made sure all the little holes in the throat had carb cleaner passing through the orifices. Haven't started it yet.
 

flyingscott

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What about the fuel line? Is the fuel valve from the tank working correctly? sounds like a fuel flow problem
 

sbbloom69

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I've pulled and cleaned the valve and its filter. I had already replaced the fuel line. I had the tank off and with the valve open, flows gas freely. I checked the float level, it has a new float needle and seat. The high RPM poor running is very distinct. I had the boat out on a lake, and it will run at half throttle and under just fine for 30 minutes, no problem. Only when I go above had throttle does it start to "4-stroke" and run poorly. Vent cap is clear (I've even run it with cap off, no difference).

I have adjusted the carb to just open at the marks on the throttle timing plate.
 

ondarvr

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You didn't say whether you rejected it for 6,500 feet, may need to drop down on the main jet.
 

F_R

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4-cycling is a sure sign of running too rich. I would have layed odds it is the boss gasket around the main nozzle, but you say not. Are you sure?

Well OK, have you considered some sort of an obstruction in the air silencer? Maybe some critter got in there and built a nest?
 

kbait

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If it's still running best with h.s. needle closed or 1/16 turn open, something is definitely wrong there. I'm with F_R on boss gasket leak, as that same issue occurs when that gasket is left out. All fuel that goes through your carb (low and high speed circuits) must pass through the main jet in carb bowl. If it runs with high speed needle turned in all the way, and said needle is sealing it's seat, fuel is getting past some other way, and boss gasket would normally be the culprit.

Perhaps you have a crack in the carb body or bowl center tube? Is your carb bowl vent clear (passage in carb body that vents to atmosphere)?

You could try a different (used) carb..call Tim's Outboard 218-682-2331 with your model #, and they'll get one to your door quick and reasonably priced.
 

ondarvr

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You didn't say whether you rejected it for 6,500 feet, may need to drop down on the main jet.

I hate it when this iPad auto corrects after you're done typing the word you actually want to use, that should read "re-jetted", not "rejected".
 

sbbloom69

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my first thought was jetting (I've had to rejet many of my motorcycles for altitude). But, my parts list only shows one choice for the main jet tube. Besides, I thought that the adjustable low and high speed needles were to help compensate for altitude.

about the main tube washer: It seemed a little loose to start. I added one, and I"m sure it's sealing now. The needles and float are new. I've checked all the lead shots, and all of the passages and the 4 little orifices in the throat. I can't see any cracks (a problem on my Honda). I agree, it makes no sense as to where the extra gas is coming from if the high speed needle is closed. The needle orifice is clear, and the needle has a good taper.

I haven't started it yet after the reed change and the 4th carb clean. It'll be next weekend. I'm putting the tools away and taking my Potter to Heron Lake tomorrow with the little British Seagull Featherweight 40 (came with the boat).

I may go for a new / used carb. Not much left to check, except shaft seals. I'm going to try a new plug too, maybe a coil (but spark is nice and blue). Thanks for the help. I'm already checking what you guys suggested.

Is there a smaller jet tube? I sure didn't see one in my parts list, or the 2 sites I checked.

Stu
 

sbbloom69

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Oh, I've had the carb off so much, the carb inlet is definitely clean. The choke works and isn't stuck on. I even loosened and tightened the chassis ground for good measure. This motor has only seen fresh water, so there's no corrosion anywhere.
 

sbbloom69

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I'm wondering if I should try and artificially drop the float level some, just to see if it helps some.

Also, I was running one of 2 NGK B6S plugs @ 0.030" Should I try another? I guess the Champion J6J is standard?
 

F_R

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You need to forget all that other stuff and pay attention to what kbait said. All the fuel must get past that high speed needle. It simply can't run with the needle completely closed---unless the fuel is bypassing it somehow. That is why we keep harping on the boss gasket. If the gasket isn't leaking, then some other flow path must exist. A lead shot missing, a hole or crack or casting flaw in the main boss, or the needle isn't actually closing or the seat is out of round. All we can do from a distance is guess, and those are a few of mine. How about one more? Somebody put the wrong carburetor on it? Stranger things have happened.

One last comment. Four-stroking will also happen if the throttle butterfly does not open all the way. But we still are back to the fact that it can't run with the high speed needle closed off.

I'm seriously wondering about the possible wrong carburetor theory.
 

sbbloom69

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Well, after 11 months, I'm back to this little Evinrude Mate 2hp. I've been sailing all summer with my Potter P15 running my Seagull. I even took the boat to Pensacola and did the Florida 120. Also got my little Tanaka 1.2hp running well (badged as a Sears Gamefisher 1.2). Pulled the carb again on the Mate 2hp. Cleaned it again. Checked all the passages again. Anybody know if this specific carb is used on any other OMC engines (but with different guts) such that I could have the wrong carb? Sure looks similar to the carb on a 3hp. I specifically looked at the HS jet (the brass emulsion tube and integral jet that screws into the upper body). The jet orifice is rather big. I was able to pass a #48 drill bit shank thru the jet (just as a size checker, not the drill itself). This drill bit shaft miked out at 0.076". Seems awful large, but the jet orifice looks clean and machined (not gouged up or drilled). I guess the engine runs above half throttle with the HS needle 1/16 turn open, nut fully closed, but never stops 4-stroking (unless I run the gas out of the carb, then runs smooth and fast for 10 seconds before running out of gas). Could I have the wrong tube/jet in the carb? I couldn't find any other sizes, or even a number on the brass jet itself. They are no longer available. I'm going to change the boss gasket and check the motor running again. I'm also going to use a micro scope to check the HS jet seat (what the needle goes into in the carb bowl) for roundness. The HS needle is perfect (new), round and has no steps. I'm just about ready to order a rebuilt carb from the guy on ebay. Seems to be a good price, and he has high feedback. Don't know what else to try. I hate giving up on something that should be simple. I hate carb work, but it's something I understand, and I've done for years on motorcycles, generators, and even other outboards. This one has me by the b...s.

As a last check, does anyone have access to an Evinrude or JOhnson 2hp such that you can check the jet diameter in the picture I've uploaded? The jet was 0.076" in diameter. A #48 drill bit just fits.
 

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sbbloom69

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One more pic of the HS brass jet showing the #48 drill bit in the bore.
 

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