1963 Evinrude Sportwin 10hp Outboard Help!

pckeen

Commander
Joined
Jun 20, 2012
Messages
2,067
Yes - but while you are in there, replace the points and condensors and spark plug wires as well (make sure you get the solid core wires, not modern wires) - the cost isn't that high for those components and saves having to go back in there at a later date. With old ignition systems like this, there can be more than one problem you are dealing with.
 

Chadbud

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 13, 2016
Messages
80
Hey guys! So I know this post is like a year old now however I now finally have the time to replace the coils. I was about to do it last year when we were discussing this but I had to put it on hold due to having to move!

So I'm hoping I could get some help purchasing the parts to do this job. From what I've been told I need to replace the following, and I'm hoping you guys could get me some links!

1963 Evinrude 10hp Sportwin (10302E)
Parts I need:
-Set of ignition coils
-Condensers
-Points
-Solid core spark plug wires


This is my first time replacing coils in the magneto so any advice or extra parts/tools you guys think I'll need will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

lindy46

Captain
Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
3,886
Coils (2) OMC part #0584477
Tune-Up Kit (points and condensers) OMC part #0172522
Wires: 7mm Hypalon copper core

You'll need a harmonic balance puller to pull the flywheel - the kind that screws into the three holes on top of the flywheel, NOT the kind that clamps around the outside edge of the flywheel. You'll need a torque wrench to re-install the flywheel nut to 40-45 ft.lbs.
 

Chadbud

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 13, 2016
Messages
80
Coils (2) OMC part #0584477
Tune-Up Kit (points and condensers) OMC part #0172522
Wires: 7mm Hypalon copper core

You'll need a harmonic balance puller to pull the flywheel - the kind that screws into the three holes on top of the flywheel, NOT the kind that clamps around the outside edge of the flywheel. You'll need a torque wrench to re-install the flywheel nut to 40-45 ft.lbs.

Thanks guys! I have just a few questions.

I'm on a tight budget so for now I'm going to try only replacing one coil and it's condensers/points. I plan to test both ignition coils inside the motor with a voltometer to determine which one is bad.

Here's my questions:
Why do I need a harmonic balance puller? I haven't seen this used in any of tutorial videos.. however I do notice my particular outboard has some sort of metal bracket above the ignition plate/flywheel. Is this what that's for?

Also, for the sake of saving as much as I can manage, I also plan on testing the sparkplug boots/wire and possibly keeping them rather than replace them right away. Obviously I'll do my best to clean any residue/carbon from any of these components to ensure good connection. Do you guys think this will be okay?

Anyway, that's what's on my mind right now. Also, any more advice or opinions people could offer would be greatly appreciated! Am I missing anything? I plan to start this project tomorrow since the parts just came in the mail (I ordered one OMC ignition coil and lamination with grommet, one OMC condenser, and breaker points)

Thanks guys!! I look forward to hearing what you think!
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,607
That metal plate on top of the flywheel is a cover that allows you to look at magneto parts before pulling the flywheel -- can adjust the points that way too. Before doing anything, you might unscrew the cover and look inside. If the coils look OK (not cracked), try cleaning and resetting points and see if you get spark.

Think you might need both coils, but maybe not. I'll suggest hanging on to the new points and condenser until you do some testing (i.e., see if you have spark after, say, cleaning and resetting points). If coils are cracked, afraid you are stuck for replacements. They won't last.

You can test for spark by spinning the flywheel clockwise by hand (plugs out). If you remove the flywheel, you can reseat it without tightening down, then test for spark. You really need an adjustable spark tester, though (about $10 at an auto parts store).
 
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