1963 Evinrude Sportwin 10hp Outboard Help!

[Chadbud]

Hi guys!

So I purchased this 1963 Evinrude Sportwin 10hp from Craigslist last year to use on a little 14' aluminum boat for some casual fishing in my area.

When I visited the owner, he said the motor was his grandfathers and had sat in a garage for most of its life. I believed him because to be honest it was one of the cleanest looking 1960-1970 era motors I've ever seen. He used it for some casual fishing and would frequently rent John boats but never owned a boat to use it on himself.

Anyway, he pulled a bucket over and started her up for me. Took him just a few pulls and she started up. The motor idled fine and throttled fine. After a few more questions I decided to bite the bullet and buy the motor (was a great deal at 500 bucks). Came with original Evinrude gas tank and everything.

I brought the motor home and a week later I mixed together a 50:1 mixture of fuel and test ran her in my driveway. She was a little difficult at first but did start up. I wouldn't say she ran perfect but she did run.

I did notice some thick blue looking oil leaking a bit from somewhere in the driveshaft (couldn't tell where because it just made its way down to where the propeller was).

I didn't think anything of it and proceeded to pack the motor up and lay it in the back of my truck. Brought the motor up to camp and put her on the back of my 14' John boat.

I got her into the water and then went on to try and turn her over. It took a bit of effort but I got her fired up and went on my way. FIRST thing I noticed is that the motor lacked high end power. I got up to low-medium speed and that was all she would give me at full throttle.

In order to not ruin my friends time I just continued to use the motor in this condition for a few hours.

The motor stalled. I got her running again but she eventually stalled once more. This time I couldn't get her to turn over again. Had to be towed in by a neighbor.

I was very upset and the next day decided to tinker with it and try starting her again.. Nothing. Eventually after trying to start it for about an hour I finally got it running.. But again, no power and the motor would just bog and then die.

So that's where we are at with symptoms.

I took the motor home and it sat in my garage for about 6 months.

I am going camping in 3 weeks and decided to try and get her running properly.

I briefly did research on outboards (I don't know too much to be honest) to find out where to start and how to diagnose the issue.

I noticed the fuel filter was very very orange/brownish in color and there was some orange/brown crud stuck to the bottom of the glass bowl the filter sits in. I removed it and cleaned it and am waiting on a new filter I ordered to come in the mail.

I checked the linkages on carb/connections/fittings all around the motor and it all seemed fine. Rubber gaskets around carb/fuel pump feel sturdy/not worn.

Today I pulled the plugs for the first time and they were surprisingly clean. Virtually no black residue on them at all. (I think the previous owner said he replaced them). But still, they were bone dry and hardly even smelled of gas or oil. Although, the motor hasn't run in 6-8 months so I figure maybe that's why.

While the plugs were out I did a compression test on each cylinder. The top cylinder read at 65ish-70 psi and the bottom cylinder read 80 psi. At first this sort of freaked me out but I want to know what you guys think. Is that expected of an older engine or am I looking at a serious issue beyond my own repair?

So that's all I've done so far. I plan to replace the gear lube this week, put in the new fuel filter, replace the spark plugs, and try to start her again since last time I was on the water.

If she still won't start, what else could it be? I was planning to look at the fuel pump next and see if I could clean/rebuild it but I hear you might have to just buy a new one with these older engines because when you take them apart they're ruined?

Also, I'd like to address every problem I can without taking the carb apart since that is a more daunting/tedious task (not to say I'm not willing to or that I can't do it, I've already found the rebuild kit I think).

Please let me know what you guys think!! I'll post pictures and maybe even a video as soon as I can! Thanks!

 

[Evinrude57]

You definately need a water pump impeller if its been sitting like that.

 

[pckeen]

I won't comment on compression - don't know enough about what is required to run. Your carb definitely needs cleaning. Varnish in your glass bowl means you'll have varnish in your carb. It isn't a tough job. There are YouTube videos galore. Watch a few and you'll get the idea. If you are cleaning, you may as well do a rebuild.

 

[oldboat1]

The fuel pump replacement is the small square one. When you rebuild the carburetor, take it apart and soak everything metal -- take off the aluminum dome on top as that is access to the idle circuit. After soaking, incl the top and bottom halves of the carb, blow out everything with carb cleaner. Chances are, you are going to want to replace fuel lines (likely brittle). From the sound of things, you might need a new tank along with fresh fuel, or will need to clean out the old tank. Your fuel mix is 24:1, using TCW-3 2-cycle oil.

You are going to need new coils. There is a plate on top of the flywheel which will allow you to look into the magneto -- expect to see cracked coils (actually the casings). I would replace points and condensers as well. New plug wires are a good idea (7mm solid core wire). Plugs are J4Cs gapped at .030. Point gap is .020. Get an adjustable spark tester, and try for 1/4 to 3/8 inch spark when you have the magneto together (may get more than that).

Your motor has a thermostat up at the top of the powerhead. With a new impeller, the t.stat may need to be replaced if the motor is overheating. Drain the lower unit of it's oil and check for water (milky color). If no water present, refill with marine lower unit oil intended for mechanical gear cases.

Like the items mentioned previously, these are maintenance issues.

I've run a couple of early 60s 10s, and they are good engines. Just need to get yours ready for prime time.

 

[F_R]

No Title

Your long saga is pretty complete and the symptoms almost shout out. Check the ignition system!! If I were a gambling man, I'd lay a wad on it has bad coils. That lack of power is because it is running on one cylinder (when it runs). And the bad coils tell why it is hard to start. Classic story.

 

[Tim Frank]

Hi guys!
I brought the motor home and a week later I mixed together a 50:1 mixture of fuel and test ran her in my driveway. She was a little difficult at first but did start up. I wouldn't say she ran perfect but she did run.

I did notice some thick blue looking oil leaking a bit from somewhere in the driveshaft (couldn't tell where because it just made its way down to where the propeller was).

Read FR's post, and you don't actually say that you use a bucket as the previous owner did, but your description of the oil leaking and running down the LU to the prop makes me wonder if you just started it up dry...."but only for a few seconds".

If so, that is never a good idea. The water pump impellers do not like being run dry and can be damaged more quickly that you can start and stop the motor.

 

[Chadbud]

Your long saga is pretty complete and the symptoms almost shout out. Check the ignition system!! If I were a gambling man, I'd lay a wad on it has bad coils. That lack of power is because it is running on one cylinder (when it runs). And the bad coils tell why it is hard to start. Classic story.

Thanks for all the replies guys!

Firstly, yes I did run it with water when I had it out of water! Hehe

It seems the consensus is that it is probably the coils.

I hope they aren't too hard to replace, I found the replacement coils at marineengine under this title:

0584477 - Ignition Coil and Lamination with Grommet

I will need 2 right?

Are the new coils all I will need to replace them? Anyone have a good reference that I can use to help guide me through replacing them?


Okay so my new plan of attack is: new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new coils, clean out fuel tank and fuel lines, 24:1 fuel mix, replace lower unit gear oil, then I'll probably try starting her then. If she still has issues I will move on to either replacing the fuel pump or rebuilding the carb.

Btw the spark plugs I got at advanced auto parts were the equilavents to the original manufacturer recommendation of Champion UJ4J.

Anyway, let me know what you guys think of my game plan! Thanks!!! I need to get this thing running by September 12th!

 

[oldboat1]

I would check the stickies up at the top of this forum -- great info. Play it "by the book" as much as you can, or troubleshooting to correct will be much more difficult (would use oem Champion plugs, for example). On the magneto, recommend doing one side at a time (coil, points and condenser). Points and condenser related to a coil are on the right side of the coil.

 

[F_R]

Since you are using the free forum supplied by iboats, it would be nice if you bought your ignition parts here. UJ4J are not the correct plugs. Correct ones are J4C or J6C if you must.

This guy posted a very good you-tube series of videos on repairing that system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClGt6xHnb94

 

[Chadbud]

Since you are using the free forum supplied by iboats, it would be nice if you bought your ignition parts here. UJ4J are not the correct plugs. Correct ones are J4C or J6C if you must.

This guy posted a very good you-tube series of videos on repairing that system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClGt6xHnb94

Okay i will, my serial number for the motor is the "10302E" btw.

weird, I wonder why the manual I looked at recommended J4J. Also, should I use J4C or J6C? Will it be bad if I use an equilavent plug if advanced auto doesn't carry the j4c?

 

[F_R]

The trailing "J" means special plug for two-stroke engines. Champion no longer makes them. Replaced by "C" which means copper core. The "J" plugs have the side electrode cut off 1/2 way across the center electrode to help prevent wet fouling. If it really bothers you, you can file the "C" electrode back half way. J-6 is next step hotter plug than J4. The "U" means it has a booster gap within the plug body to force the spark voltage up. OK if you have the voltage available. You can't get it if it is not available (like while pull starting)

10302 is a 1963 as you said up front.

 

[Chadbud]

Okay guys well I've come pretty far!

I replaced the fuel filter, put brand new J6C champion spark plugs in, cleaned and removed the rust/grit in my fuel tank. All new fuel lines.

I started her up and she ran perfectly!! She bogged a bit at first but after that she evened out and idled nice.

However, I noticed no water coming out of the exhaust in the front so I stopped her immediately and checked the impeller to find it was bad (all fins were broken off but sitting nicely in the impeller housing).

So, I replaced the impeller and the gear lube and then fired her up again! She runs beautifully now.

Right now I'm running some sea foam in 2 gallons of gas straight through her to help clean up any carbon deposits. She bogs a lot while running the seafoam and black tar looking junk is coming out of her exhaust and settling on top of the water. But all of that is to be expected I think.

Once she's done eating the seafoam I'm going to run her on 2 gallons of high octane 24:1 mix to flush any left over seafoam out.


So that's it guys!! Here's my question now...

Is there any way for me to see if she has sufficient power without taking her out on the water? Sure, she runs great now... But will that loss of power issue I had be fixed too?

Thanks!

 

[lindy46]

If you didn't check or replace anything under the flywheel (coils, points, etc.) she may not run any better at high speed. What you've already done won't correct the initial problem if it is running on one cylinder due to bad ignition parts.

 

[Chadbud]

But is loss of power on the top end guaranteed to be bad coil/one cylinder running? Would it even run smoothly if only one cylinder was running?

I don't think I'll be able to replace a coil by the time my vacation happens next weekend. Is there any way I can check if it's the coils without any special tools?

Can anyone else chime in? Thanks for the help so far guys!

 

[racerone]

It was stated to inspect coils through the inspection plate !-----Also do a spark " intensity test " y seeing if spark will jump a gap of 1/4" or more with a snap, snp sound.----What I find on these motors is that they often have 2 new coils or it needs a set.

 

[lindy46]

But is loss of power on the top end guaranteed to be bad coil/one cylinder running? Would it even run smoothly if only one cylinder was running?

Motor will idle just fine on one cylinder

 

[racerone]

I was at a " new shop " one time and owner asked me to look at a 10 hp Evinrude.------I heard it run and said " only running on one cylinder " to which this mechanic replied " no it is not both plugs are warm".-----I had to restate the facts to him.--------Later called me for a replacement flywheel as he broke it removing it.-----Needless to say that this shop was not around for very long !

 

[pckeen]

If you think it might be running on one cylinder, start it up and then unplug one cylinder at a time.

 

[Chadbud]

Hey guys!

So the impeller was junk and I ended up replacing it and then took the motor up to camp to fish since it was running fine in the driveway and I seemed to fix all the issues.

Well, it seems I finally confirmed what you all were saying and that it's ignition coils are bad.

When I tested this in the driveway by pulling one plug at a time, when I pulled the top plug it slowly would bog down and die EVENTUALLY. When I pulled the bottom plug it died almost immediately.

Either way I still tested it on the water just to see everything in action.

Here's what gave it away, tell me what you guys think:

As soon as I started it and took off and planed out, the motor was running great!! It got all the way up to about top end and we were flying. Although, when we would stop the motor and then start again, half the power was gone all of a sudden. It would do this on and off until most of the time it was just at half power. THEN one time I started it and started to go and it sounded like it was running with half power AND THEN it was like someone flipped on a light switch and with half throttle the boat all of a sudden got TONS of power back.

This is what gave it away for me, that must have been the coil kicking back in and the cylinders all firing together again right?

So what do you guys think? Sounds like all I need to do is replace my coils and I have a perfectly functioning motor. Let me know!

 

[racerone]

Look for one coil with a hole burned in the bottom----Shorting to the magneto plate.------Very common I might add.