1983 Johnson 9.9 $200

jspansel

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
126
So a buddy let me snag his Johnson 9.9 for $200. Feel thats a great deal. I changed the lower unit oil, will be doing impeller (works fine right now) and some other minor tune up stuff. I had it out on the water and it pushes my 13' tinny great. Much better than my 5hp Merc. That extra cylinder sure cuts down on the vibrations as well.

Anything specific to look out for on these motors? It runs so smooth. Other than cleaning and lubing everything up and a new impeller, and maybe some spark plugs, what else should I do with it to make sure it lasts me?
 

Attachments

  • 20160820_113043.jpg
    20160820_113043.jpg
    88.5 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
very nice. Clean fuel and tank, 50:1 mix ratio. Both two cylinders, but a few additional ponies -- Think you will like it. Might find a tiller extension and try sitting in the middle seat for a little more zip.
 

jspansel

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
126
So I was playing with the motor more and just checking things out running it in a barrel. I had the hood off and while it was running I was feeling the head for heat. Standing at the back of the motor (prop), the right side of the head is cool to the touch, the spot right where the spark plugs go into was hot, I could hold maybe 4 seconds until pain. The left side of the head was pretty hot. Maybe 2 seconds on the back of my fingers before I had to take them off. Is that normal?

It pees super strong. Water is not hot. Just a slight warmth to it. The paint on the head has no discoloration/flake or anything like that.

Just want to make sure it is normal. And if not, why would it be getting hot even though it pees nice and strong?
 

hardwater fisherman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Mar 19, 2010
Messages
1,725
I think most motors you will see the pee stream before it passes through the motor so it will not be hot. If it has a thermostat maybe it is stopping the flow if not in working order. Or something else could be blocked in the cooling passages.
 
Last edited:

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
seems OK, imo. You can pick up a IR gun and check temps if you want to be more exacting. Typically measure on the top of the head -- expect 120F to about 140 or so (160 is too hot). Don't rev it in the test barrel (OK, maybe short burst or so if making adjustments). Exhaust cover on your right would be pretty hot if it was overheating. Will be hotter on the face of the head around the plugs (probably the bypass covers on the left too -- not sure). It's not difficult to test or replace the thermostat on that motor, but your call. Salt deposits can be an issue, but thinking you are probably running in inland lakes or rivers.
 

interalian

Commander
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
2,105
Spark plugs will be the hottest part of the head. Gauge temp by touching around the water jacket instead.
 

jspansel

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
126
Thanks guys. I may actually have a IR gun in my box. I will get some temps this evening. I may pick up a thermostat as well since they are pretty cheap.

Im not sure which part the water jacket is... ? The side where the tell tale tube connects? That whole face is the one that is cool to the touch. Its the other side that is pretty hot. As well as the spark plug vertical face. The part where both plugs are in, feeling directly next to each plug. But the left side is the hottest.

Just seemed odd to me there could be that much temp difference from side to side.


Also, there is a good bit of water also coming out of the top exhaust hole. Is that normal? I looked at a bunch of youtube vids for this year motor and I cant see any water coming out of the exhaust.
 
Last edited:

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
The one that is cool to your touch is the exhaust cover. I misspoke a little when I said the t.stat was easy to replace, as I was thinking early '90s. It is still a DIY job, but requires removal of the head cover, then the t.stat cover. The t.stat is in a difficult location, and was moved up to to the top on later models. If you replace it, you need gaskets for the covers, and will want to resurface both covers before reinstalling them. I would use the IR gun and see what you have.

If you think there is some kind of blockage, another option is to pull the l.u. again and flush up from the water tube using a hose (motor off). See if that clears it.
 

timsmcm

Seaman
Joined
Oct 5, 2008
Messages
56
If it were my motor and it was in good shape I would automatically without a second thought pull the power head and replace the two water line gromets. That year model motor will need it. I have an 85 that is like a brand new motor, so I wanted to make sure it was. I started reading lee roy's ramblings about 9.9 & 15hp omc motors and he said that was 1 thing he did on every motor. So I sacked up and pulled the power head. So freaking glad I did they both looked like little cat sphincters. Would have caused overheating down the road. At the time I did it it was running at the right temp.
 

jspansel

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
126
If it were my motor and it was in good shape I would automatically without a second thought pull the power head and replace the two water line gromets. That year model motor will need it. I have an 85 that is like a brand new motor, so I wanted to make sure it was. I started reading lee roy's ramblings about 9.9 & 15hp omc motors and he said that was 1 thing he did on every motor. So I sacked up and pulled the power head. So freaking glad I did they both looked like little cat sphincters. Would have caused overheating down the road. At the time I did it it was running at the right temp.


I see... So even though the motor is peeing nice and strong, there could still be blockage in the system? Dang. I thought that was the whole point of the tell tale, to show you had proper water flow.

So how hard is it to pull the power head? Any tutorials? I may do that over the winter then. Can do the impeller and those grommets and thermostat all at once. Hope its not too much of a pain.
 

interalian

Commander
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
2,105
Yeah, that's the funny thing about the 'pissers'. They were installed to let you know the pump was working, but in order to be 'safe' to users they tap off early in the water circuit to prevent the possibility of burns in case the motor was overheated. As such they can't tell you if you have other blockages.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
Don't fix it if it ain't broke. I would have some fun with it out on the lake. Check the head temp now and then.
 

timsmcm

Seaman
Joined
Oct 5, 2008
Messages
56
Don't fix it if it ain't broke. I would have some fun with it out on the lake. Check the head temp now and then.
That is exactly the kind of wonderful advice that helps people to fill landfills. It is very hard to find these little motors let alone one in really good shape. It is an easy task to pull the power head and fix that problem that plagues that little motor. If he will do a few little things to that motor it will last the rest of his life life. They are that good. But don't listen to me, advice is like an ***, every has one .
 
Last edited:

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
I run three of them, none with issues with the grommets. Admit I've only checked two of three. jspansel sounds a bit inexperienced with outboards, and may need to ease into things a bit. But that's just an opinion....
 

jspansel

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
126
OK! So I got some temps. Hopefully this is all kosher and I can sleep better knowing. Then I can do a full maintenance breakdown in the winter and do the grommets, impeller, thermostat (since the power head would be off), etc.

So... I will attach pictures, hopefully it lets me. If not, the temps are as follows: (this is after about 10 minutes idling. Somewhat fast idle.q Not sure if that is how I should have done it but here they are).

Spark Plugs face: It jumped around a bit between 140-151 F.

Exhaust cover (where the tell tale hose comes out of): stayed right about 100 F.

And the other side (Side I thought was the hottest): Hovered around 135 F. My fingers must have fooled me on that one.

Top of motor, next to the flywheel: 125 F.

(Looks like the pics did attach)
 
Last edited:

jspansel

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
126
No Title
 

Attachments

  • photo251119.jpg
    photo251119.jpg
    77.1 KB · Views: 0
  • photo251120.jpg
    photo251120.jpg
    59.6 KB · Views: 0
  • photo251121.jpg
    photo251121.jpg
    69 KB · Views: 0
  • photo251122.jpg
    photo251122.jpg
    70.9 KB · Views: 0

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
Yeah, touch test can fool a little bit. Those temps are normal. Impellers are routine maintenance -- every couple of years is usually just fine. Might check with your bud and see when it was last changed. (Very nice, clean motor -- looks like it was well-cared for.)
 
Top