1979 Evinrude 25HP No/Intermittent spark

[camarokidz28]

First of all, thank you to anyone who helps/views this thread. I'm new to the forum.
1979 Evinrude 25HP 25905R
Compression is about 130 in both
​Flywheel was removed for photos
I bought a fishing boat with this motor on it. The guy I bought it from claims he ran the motor this year. I'm not sure if this is true or not because I've found some odd things. When I got the boat home I attempted to start it and nothing. Pulled the plugs and I was getting random spark. Now it's basically no spark at all. I've been searching all over for information on this motor and nothing makes any sense to me. I think I may be missing some wiring or something. I've attatched photos of the engine incase someone may know. I am having an extremely tough time finding test procedures or anything about the ignition.

I'm looking for any information that will lead me to spark. Thanks!

 

[AlTn]

try cdielectronics.com/troubleshooting..you have the CD 2 ignition system...from the pics you have the standard sensor coil, exciter coil, power pack, and 2 external coils...the simple and free stuff is to unplug each amphenol plug and clean each male pin and female socket with rubbing alcohol...remove and sand to clean the area for the grounding wires for the power pack and each external coil...using a dry gap spark checker set to 7/16" or so check for spark for each plug..< removing both plugs makes it much easier for the starter to spin and you really should ground the plug not being tested and don't check the spark directly in front of the open spark plug hole as fuel mix will be coming out >...now, is the spark erratic to only 1 cylinder or to both?....post back results

 

[camarokidz28]

try cdielectronics.com/troubleshooting..you have the CD 2 ignition system...from the pics you have the standard sensor coil, exciter coil, power pack, and 2 external coils...the simple and free stuff is to unplug each amphenol plug and clean each male pin and female socket with rubbing alcohol...remove and sand to clean the area for the grounding wires for the power pack and each external coil...using a dry gap spark checker set to 7/16" or so check for spark for each plug..< removing both plugs makes it much easier for the starter to spin and you really should ground the plug not being tested and don't check the spark directly in front of the open spark plug hole as fuel mix will be coming out >...now, is the spark erratic to only 1 cylinder or to both?....post back results

​
I ran some tests last night. I found that only 1 coil had erratic spark (maybe 5 sparks a minute). I tested both coils for resistance. Top coil tested 2900ohms from the plug boot to ground. The other coil had no reading.
Also I then attempted to test the wires feeding the coils for voltage but either I did it wrong or you can't as I did not get a reading.
After that I found a test for the charge coil and pick up coil. The pick up coil tested good on the ohms but not the volts.
The charge coil had no ohm reading and also did not make enough voltage. I don't recall what voltage it did make, it was a small amount.
I'm assuming that the charge coil is responsible for the lack of electric in the entire system.

The thing I find most confusing though is that when I let off the starter it would always give a spark. From what information I did find I think someone may have added my electric starter to a rope start engine? But I really don't know that's just a guess

I have ordered a new charge coil and a new pick up coil and plugs

​Also I could not find a test for the power pack. So if one exists that would helpful

 

[AlTn]

might want to cancel that order for the sensor coil and exciter coil, here's why...you have a consistent spark to 1 cylinder...with either of those components bad you would have no spark to either cylinder...further along, you know you have 1 good coil and 1 coil that may or may not be problematic....swap the good coil over to the erratic position...is the spark consistent now, or still erratic?...if still erratic, that leads to a bad power pack or possible bad connection/wire in that path...if the spark is consistent now with a known good coil in place, then that yields the problem being a bad original coil...the 2 cylinder CD ignition is pretty simple...with what you have as evidence there's no real need to make or buy a dva adapter for your multimeter unless you simply have a desire to. If this were my motor, I'd go ahead and replace both external coils and the poewrpack. This is anathema to "just fix what's broke", but that's the action I would take. Just one guy's opinion.

 

[camarokidz28]

might want to cancel that order for the sensor coil and exciter coil, here's why...you have a consistent spark to 1 cylinder...with either of those components bad you would have no spark to either cylinder...further along, you know you have 1 good coil and 1 coil that may or may not be problematic....swap the good coil over to the erratic position...is the spark consistent now, or still erratic?...if still erratic, that leads to a bad power pack or possible bad connection/wire in that path...if the spark is consistent now with a known good coil in place, then that yields the problem being a bad original coil...the 2 cylinder CD ignition is pretty simple...with what you have as evidence there's no real need to make or buy a dva adapter for your multimeter unless you simply have a desire to. If this were my motor, I'd go ahead and replace both external coils and the poewrpack. This is anathema to "just fix what's broke", but that's the action I would take. Just one guy's opinion.

​I don't know if I would call it consisten spark. Seeing as how it's only about 5 sparks per minute.
After installing the new parts however I got spark for a brief moment however that was only while I had not yet adjusted the new components. and the flywheel made contact with both the new parts I just put on. After adjusting the parts I have no spark again. I can try putting a new power pack on it and see what happens I can find an oem power pack for $77 or an aftermarket for $65​.
Also I still have no voltage coming from the charge coil. The test I found said I should have 150 volts coming from the charge coil While connected to the powerpack.

 

[camarokidz28]

After messing with it more just now. I was right back at the random spark issue however I figured let's see what happens. So I put the plug wire on the plug and it was actually trying to fire. So I'm not sure what to do. Is there a test for the power pack? and could it be a bad flywheel? Just doesn't seem right that I can not get a voltage reading from the power coil

 

[camarokidz28]

Well slightly embarrassing but after testing the voltage on AC voltage I got a reading. I understand its still not a dva reading but it made 66 volts ac. So I'm gonna order the new power pack and cross my fingers

 

[camarokidz28]

might want to cancel that order for the sensor coil and exciter coil, here's why...you have a consistent spark to 1 cylinder...with either of those components bad you would have no spark to either cylinder...further along, you know you have 1 good coil and 1 coil that may or may not be problematic....swap the good coil over to the erratic position...is the spark consistent now, or still erratic?...if still erratic, that leads to a bad power pack or possible bad connection/wire in that path...if the spark is consistent now with a known good coil in place, then that yields the problem being a bad original coil...the 2 cylinder CD ignition is pretty simple...with what you have as evidence there's no real need to make or buy a dva adapter for your multimeter unless you simply have a desire to. If this were my motor, I'd go ahead and replace both external coils and the poewrpack. This is anathema to "just fix what's broke", but that's the action I would take. Just one guy's opinion.

I put the power pack on and I got ignition. I can't get it to stay running I think the entire tiller handle/throttle system is out of adjustment. The tattle tale isn't spewing water either.