59 Evinrude wont start

[lilbuilder]

I have a 59 Evinrude 35 hp, don't have the model number but will get it if needed. I did a complete rebuild on it all the way down to changing out the bearings inside the crank rods. After many problems I have become completely stumped. I have checked the sticky engine won't start and the only thing I'm down to is after spraying starter fluid into one of the cylinders it there is still no combustion, the thread says to see if the carb is flooded by faulty needle valve, but after rebuilding the carb and replacing the float I don't know how the carb can flood. I have the adjustments adjusted to the manual specs, any ideas? I have good spark, and good compression

 

[HighTrim]

Well, after a rebuild, the list of potential problems increases quite a bit.

You put the pistons back in with the correct orientation right? Don't laugh, its been done.

Resealed the crank halves? What did you use?

I find diagnosing "wont start" scenarios, like yours, after a rebuild very difficult to do online, without having the motor in front of me.

What is the compression?

You have bright blue spark that will jump a 1/4" gap with ease with a bright blue ZAP!!? Im assuming, with the powerhead off, you went through the ignition and replaced the coils if original?

 

[lilbuilder]

Yes put the Pistons the way the manual said with the one side going towards exhaust, replaced the string "o" ring and put some orange sealant can't remember off the top of my head what it was, torqued all the bolts to spec, compression is about 95 in both cylinders, I didn't actually see spark I was using an inline spark tester.

 

[F_R]

Surely you didn't put it back together with original (cracked) coils--did you?

 

[Tom.wags@gmail.com]

Mr. F_R,

My son is the one who first started this, so to answer ur question we never did have a cracked coil to our knowledge, but today I did more tests on it and found that we do have spark at rhe end of the plug but it still does not combust even with starter fluid sprayed directly into the cylinders of each plug.

Any ideas on what we can do next or anyone else out there that can help us.


Thanks

Tom and Jeremy

 

[oldboat1]

I sold a couple of '57s this Spring, and compression was between 120 and 125 (even between cylinders). On that basis, the compression on your '59 seems low. It's even between cylinders, and maybe trying another tester would be useful. I normally use an adjustable open air spark tester -- think you should be able to measure about 3/8" spark with a tester. Think I would do that to make sure. It's possible that the plugs themselves are not doing their job -- incorrect gap, or maybe incorrect plugs. The '59 would take a Champion J6 plug, gapped at .030.

 

[Tom.wags@gmail.com]

Me. OldBoat

We will check tomorrow and let u know.

Thanks

Tom and Jeremy

 

[Tom.wags@gmail.com]

Mr. Old Boat

We did have the wrong plugs in there and I have now replaced them with the ones that u recommended but it really did not matter that much. We need to do some more testing On the engine and I'll get back with you once I speak with my son(Jeremy) on our next steps. One other question is the compression measured lower with the wrong plugs in there.? Also where do we find the "adjustable open air spark tester"?

Thanks

 

[oldboat1]

Compression is measured with the plugs removed -- screw-in tester (not the hand-held plug type). You can probably borrow or rent one from an auto parts store. The spark tester is a pretty standard item in the auto parts store too (about $10 or so).

 

[Tom.wags@gmail.com]

Yes we have and used the compression tester that screws in. So since our numbers are low what do u suggest to increase the compression?

As for the spark tester, the one we have is an inline style, where we connect the plug wire to one end of the tester and the plug to the opposite end of the tester and crank it over. Like I stated before we have the spark at the tester and when the plug is removed and grnded.

Let us know how to increase the compression number.

Thanks

 

[Tom.wags@gmail.com]

Any suggestions on how to increase the compression on this model?

Thanks

 

[HighTrim]

Well, when you rebuilt the powerhead, ill assume everything was to spec as far as wear, clearances, etc..../

Were the piston ring end gaps in spec, or did you change them? Bore worn or out of round? Piston to bore gap within spec? Did you surface head and install new head gasket?

It should still run on 95 lbs. I would get the adjustable gap tester, set it to 1/4", and ENSURE you have adequate spark before digging into something that isn't a problem. It should jump that gap with a bright blue ZAP!!

 

[Tom.wags@gmail.com]

Chris

I will let my son answer your questions as he did the rebuild of it. I am pretty sure that he got a new head gasket. Where can we find that adjustable gap tester at that you mentioned?

Thanks for the help

Tom and Son - Jeremy

 

[boobie]

Most parts houses have the adjustable open air gap spark tester.

 

[Tom.wags@gmail.com]

To All that have helped us,


We got it running finally, but we have to move the throttle all the way to run and even then it is not very fast. Next step is to adjust the slow and fast idle screws and put it Into a trash can with water while this process is being done. More to come later.

 

[Tom.wags@gmail.com]

To All

Here is an update in that in order to start the motor we need to put it in gear and move the throttle up past the normal idle speed. We also notice that there is gas coming from one of the idle screws either the fast idle one or the slow one, but was wondering if there is packing in there or a gasket that needs to be replaced?

Thanks in advance