More Fisherman help please

Starboardlean

Seaman
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
73
Well after getting the fisherman running well, i as not satisfied with the intermittant water flow. So i look at you tube for lower unit removal. I watched highlander marine. Romoved four 7/16 bolts and she dropped an inch. Removed shift shaft bolt. Just like the video. The unit would not drop. Figured I was " disturbing the dirt". So i stood over it and gave good downward thrust with both palms. Bingo. Then crapola. I see a sheared roll pin. The video completly omitted this. Heading to rude dealer for impeller and shear pin. Any tips for reinstall? Thanks guys. Should have inquired first. I notice that i tend get in bind then seek help,versus seek help prior to avoid the bind.I need one those Bill Engvall signs.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
Starboardlean, What are you working on? What year and model engine? Are you talking about the roll pin for the water pump impellor? :noidea:
 

Starboardlean

Seaman
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
73
6802r.....roll pin at very top of drive shaft. Got a new (updated version) water pump kit and the roll pin
 
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Vic.S

Rear Admiral
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May 4, 2004
Messages
4,690
6802r.....roll pin at very top of drive shaft. Got a new (updated version) water pump kit and the roll pin
The roll pin supports the lower crankcase seal assembly.

Before the lower unit can be removed the flywheel must be rotated until the pin is aligned with the slots at the top of the exhaust housing.

If you attempt remove the lower unit without aligning the pin correctly you will break it and possibly do other damage.

RTFM Paragraph 8-6 http://boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manu...rude.html#/254

Likewise it must be aligned correctly when reassembling

The flywheel may also have to be rotated to allow the splines on the driveshaft to enter the splines in the crankshaft
 
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Starboardlean

Seaman
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Feb 15, 2016
Messages
73
And i thought the hift shaft bolt on my 85hp evinrude was tough. Gently turned and massaged drive shaft with new roll pin...water tube lined up.....shift shafts lining up... try to start bolt, drop it it foot. Undo all that work to retrieve bolt. Repeat quite a few times. I could never actually see where the roll pin sits. Just massaged the flywheel/ prop and i could feel the driveshaft slide in with ease. I put it in the barrel. When i got the motor the the carb leaked.Fuel pump didnt pump. Fixed those and revealed bad water flow. Took the whole pump to the Rude dealer. He sold me a pump that bolted right up but had much smaller impeller. Shes a running,shifting, and pissing great..........One concern, I have no confidence the drive shaft installation. I mean with gentle pressure and gear turning it seated and bolted up fine. Guess me not being able to see what the roll pin was lining up with rattles me. On the bright side no "force" was used installing.
 

Vic.S

Rear Admiral
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May 4, 2004
Messages
4,690
Shes a running,shifting, and pissing great..........One concern, I have no confidence the drive shaft installation. I mean with gentle pressure and gear turning it seated and bolted up fine. Guess me not being able to see what the roll pin was lining up with rattles me. On the bright side no "force" was used installing.
Have confidence. If it's gone together, runs, shifts and pumps its a success.

I remember the first time I overhauled the pump in my 84 6hp I frigged around for ages trying to get the drive shaft to engage in the crankshaft. Suddenly it just slipped in. I thought I must have broken something so pulled it apart again to check!
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
You are not the first to shear that roll pin forcing the gearcase down! Wont be the last either.

When I do them now, as im dropping it I rotate the drive shaft. When it drops down, I mark the shaft with a sharpie, against the gearcase, so when I slide it back up, I know where the slot is, if that makes sense.

When re installing, use grease on water line and impeller housing grommet to aid in install.

Keep gearcase in gear, then you can rotate the prop, while pushing up, to align the crank splines with drive shaft splines.
 

Tim Frank

Vice Admiral
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Jul 29, 2008
Messages
5,333
I've been there, done that, and have the tee shirt.
Yet another instance of the " no-manual" brigade messing it up. :)

Seriously, get a manual. Mine was LT $25- and worth every penny.

There is a whole "package" of parts at the top of the drive shaft that includes a water seal. The chances that you did not mess with the integrity of that when you broke the roll pin is small.
I worried about mine to the point that after a year, I removed the power head and checked. Good thing I did. I replaced several parts that had been chewed up....it is very easy to get it PERFECTLY reassembled with the PH off.


Someone suggested that if everything is working, all is good. From my experience, they are wrong.
It may be a PITA, but I suggest that you R&R the PH to verify. Then you can sleep easy.
 
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Starboardlean

Seaman
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Feb 15, 2016
Messages
73
I have the manual and it tells sound like powerhead removal is straight forward. I should be able to inspect for damage from there? Possible parts damaged are numbers 1 thru 6 on the exploded diagram? Do the lower have to be dropped again as well to possibly repair?
 
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Tim Frank

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Power head removal is not difficult....took me about 40 minutes off....40 minutes back on, and I am slow. :)

The lower does not have to be removed again.

What you will have is a complete access and visibility to that cluster of parts, and a high comfort level that you have everything as it should be.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
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Apr 3, 2002
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9,598
There are some models that force you to remove the powerhead to disconnect the shift rod (and in so doing gain easy access to a seal and spring assembly, if present.) IMO, that is a better arrangement for DIY maintenance.

I would check the parts diagram and pull the powerhead -- see if the top seal assembly is complete and in place. Powerhead removal on these motors is very easy, and also gives you an opportunity to clean up exhaust passages and check water passages, along with replacement of the powerhead gasket -- all as part of routine maintenance.
 

Tim Frank

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^^^^ + 1 . The PH gasket is the only real "created" expense, and IMO is well worth it.
 
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Starboardlean

Seaman
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Feb 15, 2016
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Powerhead came off in abot 30 minutes. Now I see....I have a firm understanding of the importance of the pin. A big ole sandwich of some kind of cups,fat spring, washer,and a gasket. No damage to them. I cleary could see that the slots for the roll pin was exactly starboard and port on the motor. Massage the prop to get roll pin alighned,the massage flywheel or prop for the splines.

Side thought.... could they have made the choke cotter key any smaller?.
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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9,598
Like Tim Frank says, you know now that it's right.....

Tiny clevis pins are tough. I keep a collection of tiny cotter pins and probably leave two of three on the shop floor. Some of them (older ones I think) use tiny springs at the base of the throttle tower -- didn't think springs could get that small.

Good luck with it. When you fire it up, hope you post results.
 

Tim Frank

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Jul 29, 2008
Messages
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Powerhead came off in about 30 minutes. Now I see....I have a firm understanding of the importance of the pin. A big ole sandwich of some kind of cups,fat spring, washer,and a gasket. No damage to them. I cleary could see that the slots for the roll pin was exactly starboard and port on the motor. Massage the prop to get roll pin alighned,the massage flywheel or prop for the splines.

I suspect that many or most times it does go back together without misaligning that parts bundle....but in my case things did shift.and the seal got chewed up.
If water gets by that, you can have a major problem or ruined motor.
Next time I need to drop the lower, I'll definitely pull the PH just to be sure it is all OK.

Sounds like we are both that kind of Type A/worry-wart and not being able to see and verify what is going on way up at the spline-end is just not OK ... :)

Side thought.... could they have made the choke cotter key any smaller?.

Don't give them ideas.... :)
I ditched the pin and use a piece of twisted wire each time I R&R it.
 

Starboardlean

Seaman
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
73
Thanks for all advice and pointers. She is officially ready for sea trials. Passes all 55 gallon drum tests. The piece of mind was worth the hour and 10$ gasket.

I actually enjoy tinkering with these. Reasonable prices, not to difficult or heavy, reasonable parts. There is a project 4hp (1969) that is complete for 150 about 20 minutes from me, Good comp and foot, no fire. Gotta figure out how to sneak in past the Admiral. Thanks again folks
 
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