Crankcase torque specs 110 Crossflow 1989

[joezek]

I've already searched this sight and google for hours. Can not seem to find the torque for the two crankcase halves. I split the case, inspected everything, resealed and am trying to retorque. Also have the heads off, and I found one cheezy manual online but it doesn't have the specs, or I can't find them in the page labeled TORQUE SPECS........so WTF. If anyone has a link I can go to that would be awesome. Gotta get it back together tomorrow for the weekend.

Thanks!!

 

[boobie]

Cylinder head screws-18-20 ft-lbs. Crankcase main bearing- 18-20 ft-lbs Crankcase flange screws 60-80 in-lbs.

 

[interalian]

Make 100% sure you align the dowel in the center bearing when you put the crank in place. Bad things happen fast if you don't.

 

[joezek]

I never actually removed the crank or pistons. However I saw that the center bearing was able to rotate freely.....I made sure the spring clip overlapped the joints where the ends of the outer bearing halves meet, so it couldn't separate, however I didn't know anything about a dowel. I already reinstalled the powerhead this morning and started it, it runs quieter and much smoother than the looper did. I really hope nothing fails like this picture.

 

[joezek]

which half of the case has the dowel pin??? I think I'm going to be sick now

 

[boobie]

The carb side has the dowel pin.

 

[interalian]

The carb side has the dowel pin.

Actually the cylinder side. I didn't see it on my donor motor until I removed the crank. Dowel also keys the oiler hole in the bearing to the oiler in the block that's pumped from the bottom of #1 cylinder

 

[joezek]

crap....I was about ready for a test run tomorrow. I probably cracked the bearing just bolting the case together. I was wondering about the holes in the bearing, and spun it around just to make sure it was not jammed....couldn't figure out where the hole went and didn't see it in the manual. That pisses me off, I should have figured that out. So, by bolting it together all wrong, and possibly cracking the bearing, what is the worst case scenario? If I had ran it for a half hour somewhere, what damage would I have done? I would guess its jamming those rollers tight against the crank and ruining it. This sucks, tomorrows marathon begins, was supposed to boat sunday after missing two weeks.....

 

[boobie]

Lack of communication here. I was talking about the dowel pin used to align the crank case halves when your putting that together. It's a tapered pin.

 

[interalian]

Oops - sorry Boobie - yes the two alignment taper pins drive in from the carb side. The center bearing dowel is driven into the cylinder half of the crank case.

If the bearing was misaligned during installation, the dowel will get driven deeper in the block, likely too deep to reliably key a second time. If the bearing cracked, I'd expect shards of bearing inside with the rollers. My donor block had the dowel misaligned by half a hole and it cracked the shell and then pounded the crank, possibly for years - not why that motor eventually failed.

It. Sounds like your oiling hole is completely misaligned now, so I'd worry as much about burning up the bearing as anything else.

Probably haven't damaged the crank though.

 

[joezek]

I got it torn down again. Surprisingly it all looks perfect. I was able to fully spin the bearing and it's not cracked. I turned it until the pin dropped in place on the bearing and keeps it from spinning. It's funny, the 518 didn't dry in the middle of the crankcase around the center bearing area, must have been separated a few thousandths.

 

[racerone]

???---Something is wrong if crankcase halves are seperated by a few thousandths of an inch.----That is supposed to be a metal to metal joint.----Very important for proper bearing " clamp up "

 

[joezek]

Yeah, I didn't have the bearing lined up with the dowel pin. So the two halves were probably not as tight in the middle section because the crankshaft was holding it apart. The two halves easily matched up this time. Last time I had to use the bolts torque to pull the two halves flush together. Didn't know about the dowel pin until now. Excellent save BTW, Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost ready to splash, last second issues. No tach reading, wasted two hours troubleshooting a bunch of wiring, it's not the wiring, either the tach is set wrong or the regulator output is bad. The tach is still setup for my looper 140.

Also can't figure out the routing for the tell tale water pisser hoses. There's a line from the bubble cover to a "TEE" then goes to the pisser, but also has a 2 ft long clear hose from the "Tee". The only open hose fitting is just under the carbs, why would there be a water hose going to the intake cover....Don't think I'll be doing that, but then again, why is there a 1/8" Hose fitting under the carbs in the intake cover...?

 

[racerone]

???---Perhaps that hose is for a water prezzure gauge.--I would not be putting water to any part of this fine motor !!

 

[interalian]

Yeah, I didn't have the bearing lined up with the dowel pin. So the two halves were probably not as tight in the middle section because the crankshaft was holding it apart. The two halves easily matched up this time. Last time I had to use the bolts torque to pull the two halves flush together. Didn't know about the dowel pin until now. Excellent save BTW, Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost ready to splash, last second issues. No tach reading, wasted two hours troubleshooting a bunch of wiring, it's not the wiring, either the tach is set wrong or the regulator output is bad. The tach is still setup for my looper 140.

Also can't figure out the routing for the tell tale water pisser hoses. There's a line from the bubble cover to a "TEE" then goes to the pisser, but also has a 2 ft long clear hose from the "Tee". The only open hose fitting is just under the carbs, why would there be a water hose going to the intake cover....Don't think I'll be doing that, but then again, why is there a 1/8" Hose fitting under the carbs in the intake cover...?

Glad it worked out for you!

 

[joezek]

The port I found on the front lower part of the intake actually goes to a drain on the forward side of the carbs, guess it sucks it into the case. Looks like the Tee went to another telltale on the Port side of the case. weird, no sea trial yet, tomorrow first thing. However, this engine runs MUCH smoother and quieter than my Looper did, wifey will be happy.

BTW, I put it together with the rubber intake spacers and 140 heads from the 1977 era. Don't remember the part number off hand, but I do know they don't have the mounts for the coils. I just used existing holes elsewhere to mount the coils with only one bolt each (for now). Since most of the time I run 100 octane low lead (avgas) I wasn't worried about higher compression (if these head have higher ratio). They definitely are CC'd higher by looking at them and have a nice curved design, looks like they'll flow better. Also brand new thermostats since old were both seized and in a ball of rust. It almost looks like a new engine since I bead blasted and/or sanded everything and repainted everything that was taken apart. After I run it on the water I'll do a compression check.

Side note question- will carbon fiber reeds make it louder or rougher running? How long will they last? I don't want to make it run rough like the looper, just to gain a slightly better feel of midrange acceleration. That looper sounded like a dragster in comparison, and had a nasty snappy throttle response, but not so sure it's that much more performance. The looper had basically two throttle positions- idle and WFO. I need all those in between above idle positions for where I cruise.

Joe