Binding crankshaft on Evinrude 110

[joezek]

I understand how it works, the charge of air being pulled in as exhaust comes out, wanting the exhaust to start exiting first etc. It just doesn't look right to have designed a port that is 1/3 blocked by the piston even when it's fully at it's most open position. I've worked on a lot of 2 stroke engines and usually if they put a port there and it has a certain size opening, then it's intended to be used, otherwise they might as well have made the port only 2/3 the height and have the same flow through it and a stronger cylinder wall with more metal. I know the piston is stepped up differently to control the timing and flow of the air charge. Since I have the engine mostly torn down I figured now's the time to change out the pistons (IF they're the wrong ones), but if they're supposed to be designed like that then I'll leave em alone.

 

[jimmbo]

deleted

 

[interalian]

Perhaps what you're missing is that even though the port is still partly covered, the flow through the port is still there in the cylinder opening, and angled fingers of the bypass covers contribute by aiming the flow.

And if the crank bearing is pooched, is the crank OK?

 

[joezek]

I looked at it more closely since the bearing is really smoothly spinning by itself and not corroded. Now I see something new, the counter weight on the end of the crankshaft has been rubbing against the face of the bearing. somehow the crank moved further up until it hits the bearing, or the bearing is set too far down inside the assembly it's mounted in. This explains exactly why I could rotate the engine easily until the counter weight hits the bearing, then you feel it dragging. I'm not really sure how this engine is designed as far as keeping the crank from floating up and down. Is there a thrust bearing or something like that?

 

[interalian]

I looked at it more closely since the bearing is really smoothly spinning by itself and not corroded. Now I see something new, the counter weight on the end of the crankshaft has been rubbing against the face of the bearing. somehow the crank moved further up until it hits the bearing, or the bearing is set too far down inside the assembly it's mounted in. This explains exactly why I could rotate the engine easily until the counter weight hits the bearing, then you feel it dragging. I'm not really sure how this engine is designed as far as keeping the crank from floating up and down. Is there a thrust bearing or something like that?

Up/down is controlled by the ball bearing in the bottom of the crankshaft. Center and top bearings are roller, providing no thrust/retention. The lower bearing is housed in an aluminum cap and is retained on the crank with a circlip.

 

[joezek]

When I reinstall the bearing onto the crank, is it supposed to be pressed on or is it supposed to slide on easily? It doesn't budge, and was a nightmare to remove. I had to use a puller and find extra long bolts to remove it. Looks like reinstalling it will require extra long bolts as well.

I've looked online everywhere I can find and the bearing that I removed was set sticking further out of the head assembly than any in the pictures I see. I pressed it further in so it's flush instead of sticking out an 1/8" like before. That should keep it from binding on the counterweight.


JOE

 

[racerone]

Normally I heat those bearings up.---Then they fall in place.---Then install the circlip to keep it from moving.

 

[interalian]

I assume you're talking about the bottom bearing? If so, was there a lot of play in it?

 

[joezek]

The top ball bearings are what I'm talking about, just below the Flywheel

 

[interalian]

Oh. Have you checked endplay on the crank? The top bearing is a slip fit over the crank, but a press fit into the top housing. I thought I read somewhere the top bearing and cap are an assembly, not serviceable?

 

[joezek]

The engine was a success yesterday. After a long day Saturday pulling the block and splitting the case, reinstalling etc. I was able to finish it in time. Took it out for the first time since buying the engine. It runs so smooth and quiet, I'm really surprised. Compared to the Looper, this is like a sewing machine.

I have some minor problems still- Tach will not work and I don't think it's charging the battery. I'm assuming the regulator is dead. Is there any sort of upgraded or better charging system available? I run two Blue top Optima batteries and a 2,200 watt stereo system, really need a good charging system. I'm also planning on installing a third battery and upgrade to more wattage in the stereo.

 

[w2much]

Glad your repair went well. 3 batteries ? 2200 watt stereo system. Please keep your distance perhaps a mile or so should do.

 

[joezek]

Lol, the main use of this boat is to put on a party every weekend out at the sandbar. Usually within an hour we have about 15-20 boats parked on top of us with people we don't know, because they want to listen to music and drink etc. To make it even better, we have two other friends with the same amount of stereo power that we link the stereos together. It's like a small concert going on.

Is there somewhere else on the engine I can pick up the tack signal besides the gray wire on the regulator? I have a universal regulator I put on my old Merc 115 and it worked great, also used it on my merc 50 that was on the Grumman. It's made for experimental aircraft, has a nice big heat sink on it too. It only has 4 wires though, no tach signal output. It has two yellow AC input wires, and power/ground output.