Help with motor identification!

[98SkeeterSS90]

Just bought s 1998 Skeeter SS90 bass boat. Came with a 115hp Johnson that has had the serial buck tag removed. I need help identifying what year this motor is so I can throw some parts at it to get it to run. I know it needs a starter because this one is dragging. It won't stay cranked longer than 10-15 seconds and dies so I ordered two carb kits. Got the carbs disassembled and soaking in MEK. I can post some pics of motor if y'all gurus can help me.

 

[98SkeeterSS90]

Uploading the pics to photobucket, can't get files to load thru website

 

[98SkeeterSS90]

If this helps the freeze plug on power head says:

85899C
J0001951

 

[98SkeeterSS90]

 

[98SkeeterSS90]

 

[boobie]

According to that # on the freeze plug on the block it's a 1978 85 hp.

 

[racerone]

Wonderful job of making a 78 model look like a 1995 model.---Decals are cheap I guess.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Also, it's an Evinrude. The airbox/choke assy looks just like my 79 85 hp Johnson. Except in these early years the powerhead was painted the same color as the engine.

 

[interalian]

Looks like they painted over a green block - check the one with the terminal strip in it.

 

[98SkeeterSS90]

So y'all are saying I don't have a 115 Johnson? I'm fixing to take this joker to small claims court

 

[oldboat1]

10-15 seconds is a long time to crank, particularly three or four times in succession -- will overheat a starter, destroy brushes, run down a decent battery. Better to avoid that (which is probably why you are working on carbs....) Starting circuit issues may mean the motor isn't cranking fast enough to fire up, which in turn usually means more cranking, which causes more starting circuit problems, etc. etc.

Assuming your battery is fresh, you might be due for a starter rebuild -- be a good idea to clean it and check brushes, anyway. And based on some recent threads, make sure the choke works properly. If it's a '78 or so, and if it's got flaps -- touch the flaps. Seriously. Touch the flaps. Push on them. Make sure they close tight.

Check spark with an adjustable tester.....

[ed. no opinion on yr. or hp. Can't use me in your legal case....]

 

[interalian]

So y'all are saying I don't have a 115 Johnson? I'm fixing to take this joker to small claims court

It's older than 1980 - about that year they got rid of choke plates. The model number comes up as an Evinrude 85, 1978 vintage. Block has been sprayed black over green paint, suggesting a Johnson.

 

[oldboat1]

...but totally supportive, of course. :behindsofa:

 

[98SkeeterSS90]

Thank y'all for your help, what a let down, this guy totally screwed me

 

[98SkeeterSS90]

10-15 seconds is a long time to crank, particularly three or four times in succession -- will overheat a starter, destroy brushes, run down a decent battery. Better to avoid that (which is probably why you are working on carbs....) Starting circuit issues may mean the motor isn't cranking fast enough to fire up, which in turn usually means more cranking, which causes more starting circuit problems, etc. etc.

Assuming your battery is fresh, you might be due for a starter rebuild -- be a good idea to clean it and check brushes, anyway. And based on some recent threads, make sure the choke works properly. If it's a '78 or so, and if it's got flaps -- touch the flaps. Seriously. Touch the flaps. Push on them. Make sure they close tight.

Check spark with an adjustable tester.....

[ed. no opinion on yr. or hp. Can't use me in your legal case....]

It doesn't quite take that long to crank it, after I crank it it will stay running for about 10-15!seconds then die every time. The carbs leak gas as well, this is why I'm rebuilding them. Am I on the right path doing this? Screwed or not I'm stuck with the boat, this is why I'm trying to fix it. I need to get this boat on the water

 

[Faztbullet]

If he gave you a bill of sale listing engine as different year tell him your going to court and get at least 1/2 your $$$$ back.

 

[98SkeeterSS90]

How did he manage to get the 1995 ish year model cowling over that 78 motor?? Do they all interchange? The cowl fits snug over motor like it was made for it. I guess I'm still in shock that I bought a boat that has a 20 year old motor (20 years older than boat) on it and it's falsely advertised as a 115.

 

[interalian]

It's a crossflow engine, very similar from the late '70s to mid '90s. Many incremental improvements were made along the way such as primers vs chokes, integrated tilt/trim control box, ignition systems etc.

For your 10-15 seconds running after start - were you bumping the choke when it stumbled? These motors tend to need a fair amount of priming/choke to get running, and when initially running you need to keep idle up and choke/prime to keep them running until warmed a bit.

 

[oldboat1]

Do a careful job on the carbs as they need to be squeaky clean (all openings and passages). Think I would also do a complete check -- compression check, spark check with an adjustable tester, replace impeller before running, potentially t.stats (check cooling when you get it up and running).

Bad stuff on the face of it. CL purchase? Probably a blown powerhead on a later model motor, swapped out with an older powerhead. Not clear whodunit -- likely your seller, but who knows? Maybe Huggins Outboard can shed light on history if you want to do some discovery work. Might check out the hull too -- think I saw a plate on the stern. Can confirm what you have there too while dealing with this stuff, if you haven't done that. Presumably register boat and trailer. Would want to be sure the boat and trailer match registration documents, given experience with the motor.

 

[interalian]

Agree with oldboat1 about the steps to get it running. All the usual suspects - compression first, post the numbers.

I think the missing serial/model plate is suspicious and the whole motor is likely old. Older ones have a stamped aluminum plate attached to the transom bracket with two riv/screws. Later ones use a printed sticky label.

There are other qualifying ID items. Look at the trim/tilt - does the motor have two wires or three? Does the trim/tilt relay box have two small cube relays or one big solenoid? Later V4 motor brackets have OMC embossed just ahead of the skeg - big letters.

Etc...