Weird issue with adjusting idle stop screw, idle timing, etc...

[Fed]

Center magnet in flywheel?

 

[jakedaawg]

Pull the head while your at it. Compression is your first concern. That will determine whether or not to buy parts.

 

[racerone]

Timing base looks just fine !!---Nothing wrong there.

 

[rusirius]

Well I pulled the head this morning. Not good. Here's a pic of my #1 cylinder. 2 and 3 look great. Couple of questions...

1) any idea what could have caused this in just one cylinder? Motor was rebuilt before I bought it about 3 years ago.

2) is it even worth trying to deal with this? Or should I just look into replacing the motor?

 

[jakedaawg]

That can be repaired. It's a lot of work. I judge these situations based on $. A motor is worth x amount. Repairs cost y amount. Replacement motor is how much if you can find a known good one. Sometimes it's worth it to rebuild because a replacement is not available or too much $ for an unknown even if the cost of repairs exceed the end value of the then rebuilt motor.

This is just how I decide, not saying anything other than that, not trying to upset others.

 

[racerone]

A new motor is a very good option for many folks.---Just turn the key and go.

 

[jakedaawg]

As far as what caused that? Lean condition, bad timing for that cylinder, several issues could combine, it's hard to tell from a picture over the net.

Just make sure that if you do rebuild you address whatever you figure out as to why it did fail. It could be as simple as a broken ring caused the damage, or it could have been any number of things. Sometimes rings just fail all on their own. Nothing lasts forever when it comes to a motor that is trying to throw itself apart held together only by a bunch of bolts.

 

[jakedaawg]

I also don't see any rubber diverter in the cooling jacket but it may not be supposed to have one and the pic is not complete as it comes up on my screen.

Good news is you now know the rest of the story. You will be able to figure out your costs. New electrics that are out of spec, machining, pistons, gaskets....

 

[racerone]

I do not believe the rubber diverters are used on 3 cylinder motors !

 

[rusirius]

Well, after giving it some thought and consideration... Here's what I've decided to do...

I've got everything stripped off the powerhead. I'm going to pull it off and separate it this week.

I think I mentioned in an earlier post that this motor was rebuilt just before I got it, and hasn't had much time on it since. Everything I've been through has shown this. The gaskets are all in impeccable condition, the #2 and #3 cylinders and pistons are in perfect condition, etc. So with all that said, I think what I'm going to do is a "quick and dirty" on it.

In other words, separate it, have the #1 cylinder bored, replace just that piston. Reuse existing bearings, etc (assuming they're in as good a shape as the rest of it). Rebuild the #1 carb to ensure it doesn't have an issue resulting in #1 running too lean. Replace gaskets of course. Replace the timing base.

Slap it back together and go...

My hopes here is not to have something to last the next 10 years... But to get it back up and running as cheaply as possible for the next year or two until I can replace it.

 

[flyingscott]

Well, after giving it some thought and consideration... Here's what I've decided to do...

I've got everything stripped off the powerhead. I'm going to pull it off and separate it this week.

I think I mentioned in an earlier post that this motor was rebuilt just before I got it, and hasn't had much time on it since. Everything I've been through has shown this. The gaskets are all in impeccable condition, the #2 and #3 cylinders and pistons are in perfect condition, etc. So with all that said, I think what I'm going to do is a "quick and dirty" on it.

In other words, separate it, have the #1 cylinder bored, replace just that piston. Reuse existing bearings, etc (assuming they're in as good a shape as the rest of it). Rebuild the #1 carb to ensure it doesn't have an issue resulting in #1 running too lean. Replace gaskets of course. Replace the timing base.

Slap it back together and go...

My hopes here is not to have something to last the next 10 years... But to get it back up and running as cheaply as possible for the next year or two until I can replace it.

I would question it being rebuilt before because you have a stock bore. Have the machine shop look it over it sounds like somebody did what you are planning to do and sold it to you.

 

[flyingscott]

Well, after giving it some thought and consideration... Here's what I've decided to do...

I've got everything stripped off the powerhead. I'm going to pull it off and separate it this week.

I think I mentioned in an earlier post that this motor was rebuilt just before I got it, and hasn't had much time on it since. Everything I've been through has shown this. The gaskets are all in impeccable condition, the #2 and #3 cylinders and pistons are in perfect condition, etc. So with all that said, I think what I'm going to do is a "quick and dirty" on it.

In other words, separate it, have the #1 cylinder bored, replace just that piston. Reuse existing bearings, etc (assuming they're in as good a shape as the rest of it). Rebuild the #1 carb to ensure it doesn't have an issue resulting in #1 running too lean. Replace gaskets of course. Replace the timing base.

Slap it back together and go...

My hopes here is not to have something to last the next 10 years... But to get it back up and running as cheaply as possible for the next year or two until I can replace it.

I would question it being rebuilt before because you have a stock bore. Have the machine shop look it over it sounds like somebody did what you are planning to do and sold it to you. You can do a proper rebuild on that for less than $1000 in parts and you do the labor and have something worth more when you re-sell it.

 

[racerone]

Are you replacing the timing base because ohm measurements are bad or based on it " looks " to be worn and bad to you ?

 

[rusirius]

Are you replacing the timing base because ohm measurements are bad or based on it " looks " to be worn and bad to you ?

Well, I was going to replace it based on the fact the resistance measurement was very wrong compared to what it should have been, according to my service manual... However, after doing a bit more research I found this...

http://www.outboardignition.com/page40.asp

Which says that I should in fact be measuring open across the coils (9.7 is about as close as you're gonna get to open on a coil) so now I suppose there may not be anything wrong with the timing base...

I did however find a wire on the stator that had been pinched very badly during assembly. Either during the original rebuild or the idiot may have been in there, not sure... It's pinched right by the coil itself, so rather than try to repair I may just replace that coil pack.

 

[oldboat1]

If the magnets are OK and you think you might be able to revive the pinched wire, I think I would now put it back together, torque down the flywheel and see if you get any improvement.

 

[rusirius]

Ok so here's the latest update. Honed the cylinder and got most of the scoring out. It's not perfect but it's a whole lot better and like I said I was just trying to do it as cheaply as possible so I could do it now and save up some money to do it right later. Replaced the damaged piston too.

Btw, someone before mentioned it not having been rebuilt because it had standard pistons. Not sure where that came from but it's not standard, they are 20 over.

Bearings and everything else looked perfect so I kept as is. Put it back together and I've now got 115 on that cylinder. I can live with that for now.

In putting everything else back together I discovered the source of the disaster. Using pulses of air from air compressor to actuate vro pump I found that no oil was being drawn in.

Pulled the pump down again and this time cleaned it out really good and reassembled. Now it draws oil like a Texan.

Put everything back together and fired it up.

It's definitely running better, (though smoking like crazy cause I also add oil to fuel just in case vro dies again), but of course after messing around with it I'm sure the timing is way out.

The timing mark was still jumping all around. So much so that I couldn't understand how it could possibly even be running. Which gave me a thought. I hooked the timing light up to an old car and found that it's not working correctly! Ugh!

So I'll need to find a new light and hopefully that will help me out. We'll see!

 

[flyingscott]

Most pistons will say on them if they are oversize. Yours don't they just say up

 

[rusirius]

Oh and btw, found out why my temp alarm didn't go off before it was too late. Because the switch was bad. Ugh

 

[rusirius]

Flyingscott, yes the are stamped 20, the 20 was just covered by carbon. Once they were cleaned up you could see them all clearly

 

[rusirius]

It's days like today you just want to flip the finger to the world. Ugh. Lol

So I picked up a new timing light today. Hooked it up and turned it over. Wouldn't start. Weird. Fooled around with it for a minute when I realized the light which I had already hooked up wasn't showing rpm when cranking.

Pulled the plug, checked and sure enough no spark.

Checked safety switch just to be sure but it's working fine, grounded at powerpack when off and open when clipped on.

So now for some reason I have no fire on any cylinder. Ugh!