Final setup for first run on hydrostream vulture??

[tfmech]

Well hydrostream is ready to hit the water this weekend. Just had a few last setup questions. It is a 20 ft vulture with just two seats and the gas tank. 1989 gt150 Johnson 25 pitch 4 blade shooter prop. 6 inch manual jackplate.

My question is on motor height. I don't have a low water pickup on it yet. I have the prop shaft set about 5 inches below the pad right now. Just wondering if that is a good place to start or if I will not get enough water to the pickups. Should I just epoxy the top two inlets to start with? I have a water pressure guage and it has a fresh impeller.

Any advise would be great.

 

[Faztbullet]

That's pretty close for starting and make dang sure you have dual steering..any higher the shooter will start slipping. You would be better to go to a over the hub prop and get it at 1.5-2.5 inches below bottom.

 

[emdsapmgr]

The mounting sounds a little high, but you can determine that if you take a buddy with you. If he drives, you can hang your head over the back of the transom and see where the water hits the lower unit. You want the water that streams from under the transom to hit the lower unit under the anti-ventilation plate. You can raise it to the point that you start to uncover the top hole of the 4 water intake holes down by the prop. Then go back up one hole. The top hole must run in the water. So, a visual at high speed, with lots of trim is a must before you put any time on it. Also, when you get into running the lower unit high, I would not proceed until you have a water pressure gauge at the dash. You must insure that you've got close to 15 # of pressure at WOT and full trim. Also, you can plug the top hole of the 4 water pickup holes on each side of the lower. You get plenty of water with only 3. See attached V6 picture.

 

[tfmech]

Thanks for the help guys, didn't get a chance to block off the upper holes. Probably will not need to tell I can get the motor higher. It is pegging the water psi guage. I am out of jack plate at 4.75 inches below pad. It runs awesome.

Only issue it is having is at WOT it will run for about a few hundred yards. As I start bringing the trim up it w ill die out. Thought it was running out of fuel but pushing the primer dosent help. Almost like it is fouling the plugs out. This is at about 4500 rpm or so. Let out of the throttle and catches again after about 2 or 3 seconds and goes again. Could this be it is not high enough rpms and to much fuel.

Any thoughts, thanks for all the help.

 

[ondarvr]

Fouling the plugs wouldn't have anything to do with it. Do you mean that at WOT it's at 4,500 RPMs?

 

[tfmech]

Fouling the plugs wouldn't have anything to do with it. Do you mean that at WOT it's at 4,500 RPMs?

About 4500-4800 which I know is low it seems the higher I can keep the rpms the less it wants too die. I know it should be higher am just wondering if I have a fuel delivery issue or it is just not high enough in rpm band

 

[ondarvr]

It's not dying due to any RPM / throttle position relationship you're trying to relate it to, it's normally due to a fuel delivery issue causing it to run lean, but can be from other things too.

 

[tfmech]

Guess we will give it the old pump the primer bulb test when we get out on the water today. Has fresh fuel pumps on it and a new primer bulb and fuel line.

 

[tfmech]

Well is fuel supply related, it gets worse as the fuel level goes down. Same with or without out the filter/separator. I am pre mixing fuel, vro pump is gone I am running twin vacuum pumps from a 235 hp just rebuilt. I am thinking of just going with an electric pump?

Second issue I am dropping #4 cylinder at idle up to 1500 rpm compression is good sparks good on the gap test. Weak coil?

 

[ondarvr]

Not a coil, they fail in the opposite way.

What did it do when you squeezed the bulb when it started to bog?

 

[emdsapmgr]

It's easy to fire a plug on a gap test. Different thing when the plug is undercompression on a running engine. Check for a weak ignition component: stator, power packs, timer base. This troubleshooting website has all the good information on your specific ignition system: cdielectronics.com. Weak ignition components tend to fail when the engine heats up to normal running temps. May run fine cold, then crap out as the engine warms up.

 

[tfmech]

It picked back up when squeezed the primer bulb.

The carbs are freshly rebuilt, it has a newer stator, timer base, and power pack.

As far as number four missing, after it has been idling take the plugs out #4 is nice and clean no soot on it. Go out and run it stop take the plugs out now it looks like the rest of them.

What do I need to check?

 

[ondarvr]

If it ran better when the bulb was squeezed then you either have an air leak or the fuel pump is failing.

A cylinder not firing at low speeds is frequently the low speed circuit in the carb. Try putting your hand over that carb when it's idling and see if it improves, you can also squirt a bit of premix into the carb. Report back what happens.

 

[tfmech]

Well think I found the rough low speed or dropping cylinder problem. Low speed timing was all jacked up. When I set it on the water last weekend I thought I was looking at the 8 degree mark it was the 4 so it was trying to idle around at like 2 degrees.....Doh.....

Funny idles dead smooth at 7 degrees. Will have to wait till I get it on the water again now.

The high speed fuel starvation is still a problem. Do I need to install a fuel pressure gauge to monitor it. Buy new pumps? I just rebuilt the pumps on it. I only get about 4 more weekends to use it till September. Can I test the pumps on the ears or does it have to be in the water. I want to get what I need so I can have fun with it next time out.

Thanks guys

 

[emdsapmgr]

You said you rebuilt both fuel pumps. Bombardier does not make rebuild kits for those dual pumps. Never did. Must be some reason.....maybe due to the problems you are encountering with your rebuild kits. Best way to test the pumps is when they are trying to provide max fuel flow-say at 5500 rpm's at WOT-blasting across the lake. Have you checked the anti-siphon valve to be sure there is not some small debris inhibiting it's functioning?

 

[tfmech]

Well I figured as much on the checking out the fuel pump function. I don't think the tank has a anti siphon valve on it I will get one I know they are supposed to. I did try a couple different fuel lines and primer balls. Even hooked it directly to the tank eliminateing the filter separator. All acted the same. I checked for air leaks didn't find any as it is all new fuel lines and vacuum lines.

They do list a factory rebuild kit for the pumps it is part number 0398514 been superceded twice. I used Sierra kits as they were easier to come by.

I just don't want to miss something and waste 200 dollars on fresh pumps and still have the same issue as I have 50 in rebuild kits already.

 

[tfmech]

Alright so two brand new factory fuel pumps, link and sync set right, hot foot hooked up, trim on the steering wheel, motor up at just about 3.5inches below pad. It is ready for another weekend at the lake.

So now is it back to prop. I figure I am going to end up with some sort of raker prop to get the full potential out of the 150. Question is on the pitch size and brand, I only ask because I was going to have the my 4 blade 13 1/4x 25 shooter prop I now have on it cleaned up and fixed as it is a little dinged up. It is what I had is why I have it on there

I asked what the shop had in stock for 3 blades as I know it is going to need a 3 blade to get the full potential out of it. I just wanted to see what you guys thought.

They have a 14 3/8x21 Ballistic and a 14 1/2x 23 turbo prop think he said he had a over the hub 20 pitch chopper too used for $200 each or step up to new for more then double

I was thinking about trying out the ballistic as that bit of research I did said they are cupped pretty good and bite hard some say the act like a higher pitch some say they suck or maybe the higher pitch turbo prop might be better?

I am just wondering if I am wasting my time with the Ballistic? Is it even a raker type prop cant really find a lot of info on it. Do I just need to spring for a true raker like a powertech rkr3 or a Raker II? Am I even in the right ball park should I try a over hub chopper?