1979 Evinrude 100Hp (100999S) advance lever return

[truehybridx]

So the only real problem the boat came with is the spark advance / throttle levers would not return to stop when the control put into neutral (or the fast idle lever is pushed back down).

We ordered replacement control cables just because that was the next thing the previous owner was going to do and on the motor end when you push the advance/throttle lever to their low stop position there is about 1/3 to 1/2 an inch of play on the motor end of the throttle cable.

Was this a good call? Could that much slop be developed in a control cable over time?

I also ordered a replacement nylon bush for the inside of the control box because there is some wiggle on the pivot that attaches to the throttle cable at that end. Is there anything else I could be missing that would contribute to the slop? I'm kinda still in awe that there is no actual return spring for the advance/throttle in the event that the cable breaks.


Edit: I can't seem to upload pictures. Maybe linking them will work
https://www.dropbox.com/s/p3zphenmgq..._0233.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jnutdfm51j9x2qo/IMG_0236.JPG?dl=0

 

[interalian]

Have you tried adjusting the trunnion at the motor end of the cable to get the throttle to pull back fully? Also, I notice your control box is missing the interlock piece that fits in the slot in the steel plate on the side with the fast idle lever.

Edit: part 0323753 CAM, Shift lockout

 

[James R]

Slop in the cable is a no no. Disconnect the throttle cable and operate the lever mechanism by hand. Everything should operate freely and the advance rod should move back and forth with the lever mechanism . if the rod does not move freely the flywheel will need pulling and the timer base looking at. May need cleaning and lubricating.

 

[emdsapmgr]

The spark advance lever is not returning to the full aft positon, normal at idle rpm's. It is binding due to the throttle cable setup. When making sure the idle is correct, you must disconnect the throttle cable where it bolts to the spark advance arm. Set your idle, make all your adjustments with the cable disconnected. Run the engine and adjust it's idle when the boat is floating normally in the lake and is in forward gear. Set the idle to 650-750 rpm's. Once this is set correctly, then reconnect the throttle cable, making sure to adjust the cable length (with the screw trunion) to meet the stud on the bottom of the spark advance arm. That way you will be sure it idles correctly.

 

[truehybridx]

interalian the trunion is at the end of its adjustment in the direction that moves the throttle closer to aft. Interlock piece? That CAM lockout under your edit?

James R when I had the throttle cable disconnected form the motor it didn't feel noticeably bound up. I guess that would be next to look at if the new cables don't work.

emdsapmgr in gear and in the water? Sounds reasonable as far as putting the motor a bit under load, sounds kinda scary too. Will give that a go after we get it to back all the way back.

Thanks

 

[interalian]

If you've got the trunnion as close to the throttle arm as possible, and you have play in the cable, you probably need a new one. I'm not sure whether the missing interlock has anything to do with it, but it does prevent shifting with the fast idle lever up and could affect base throttle position.

 

[truehybridx]

So I replaced the bushing on the fast idle lever and the throttle and shift cables. The throttle cable ended up having a hang in it because it would stiffen up in 2 places I would have to overcome by hand. I readjusted the new throttle cable so it "should" have enough range to pull the throttle to its stop but it still doesn't. It acts like something in the controller is giving in when it gets that far or a cam is out of whack.

interalian part 20 in that diagram is in the controller, it was just rotated out of sight because the fast idle was pushed down. I do not see part 67 at all though..

https://www.dropbox.com/s/37dd8de0xgfpx31/IMG_0240.jpg?dl=0

 

[interalian]

Yeah, part 67 is missing...

 

[emdsapmgr]

The idle must be set when the boat is in the water, in forward gear. When at the dock, tie the boat to the dock. Start the engine and shift into forward gear. It's not going anywhere. Do you adjustments. You don't care about the idle, should you set it on the trailer in the back yard. You want to duplicate normal operation, and that's when the boat is floating normally in the water, and in gear.

 

[truehybridx]

Well I normally had it in a stock tank to best emulate being in the lake...

To conclude it looks like its around the correct idle like emdsapmgr mentioned so I think it is ok. It has a solid clunk when going in gear which seems to be what its suppose to sound like according to the forums.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Setting the engine in a test tank does not insure that the engine is at the proper boat height when the boat is floating normally in the lake. Actually the backpressure of the lake water holding the exhaust in the engine determines the idle. It's how much rpm is required to force the water from around the prop and maintain the proper rpm. Every boat is different, so there is not set "standard." You may get it close in the tank, but usually not "exactly dialed in."