1969 6r69m 6hp Starts, idles, revs real high, then dies

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oldboat1

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believe you have a vintage cam follower -- no wheel. It appears a piece of hose or something might have been put in place to mimic the style with a roller. If that's correct, removal of the "roller" would probably allow the cam follower (and throttle plate) to return to an idle position. I can't quite make out the mark on the cam, but think the cam follower might correctly end up on or near the mark.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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I have three of these motors, I can check them to see what they look like, but won't be home until Friday.

They will run for years (decades) with little attention.
 

texas_salt

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It's an obsolete part: 0312832. #16 in the carb diagram: http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E...d-90f446a416f4. Drill down to your yr/hp/model, and check the carb parts blowup.

You might see if you can pull off the rubber piece that appears to be added, and try to do a link and sync.


Interesting, So I just cleaned the cam and saw the mark (thanks to you and leeroys ramblings)

The throttle opened about a little bit before the mark. Anyway, I did the adjustment, and now the butterfly begins to open exactly at that mark. Very cool. Honestly, I never even considered link and sync.

Also, if you saw in my OP, I originally disassembled the fuel pump (mistake) and didnt reassemble it properly. After much googling and photos, I finally thought I got it right. Then a plate was off. Fixed that, Well, that only COMPLETELY disabled the motor from getting fuel.

I know this pump should be good (its in great shape), so I sat down, saw Leeroys ramblings has a great page on it. PROPERLY re-assembled it 100%. His test of "blowing through the inlet" before and after was the confirmation I needed.

Long story short, FUEL PUMP IS GOOD (again)! No more hand pumping. Another goose chase I got myself in. But, thats sometimes the price of liking to take things apart and learn.

So after all this, yesterday, it wouldnt start. Frustrated, I took the carb off again. Its clean as a whistle (I soaked it overnight weeks ago, rebuilt it, blah blah). Well I sprayed it again and all is well now. Starts up and runs like it did before the fuel pump issue. Maybe the jacked up fuel pump clogged the carb up again, or maybe it was just flooded good. I dunno.

Long story short, the last issue I can think of is changing the lower unit oil (and seals) and the rest is just tuning and dotting my i's and crossing my t's. Getting the idle right etc.


This place is invaluable as well as leeroys site. Thanks to all so far.
 
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texas_salt

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Agh, no spark on the top cylinder again!!!

- Took the flywheel off.
- Inspected everything. All looks ok.
- Gap is .020
- Cleaned points again.
- Continuity from coil ground to end of plug wire.

I'm kind of stumped. these are NEW coils and NEW condensors. Sparked yesterday. Bottom plug ALWAYS sparks.

Sanity check:

1. I'm twisting the ignition wire onto the coils. Correct?
2. Stranded wire (not solid) is ok yeah?
2. The top wire IS about 6 inches longer than the bottom. It has some slack. Is that an issue?


(coil on bottom is the one with issue)
1zpii5h.jpg
 

texas_salt

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Ok after enough head scratching, back and forth with the flywheel, and reseating the wire into the coil, followed by more head scratching, I finally discovered the resistance between the two points is the same. Open AND closed.

On the opposing (working) side its not.closed = less resistance.

Looks like I need new points. No amount of cleaning seems to help.

THIS explains a lot.
1. Why the spark has always seemed dimmer than the other coil (if it sparks at all)
2. It also explains why it seemed random (because it is random).
3. Should explain why startups were randomly/easy or hard
 
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AlTn

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the black wires that come up from the stop switch and reside under the coils before they attach to the stationary side of the points...have you inspected this closely for any wear in the insulation ?...also do any of the wire terminal ends on the stationary point set touch the magneto plate even slightly?
 

texas_salt

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the black wires that come up from the stop switch and reside under the coils before they attach to the stationary side of the points...have you inspected this closely for any wear in the insulation ?...also do any of the wire terminal ends on the stationary point set touch the magneto plate even slightly?


afaik there is no stop switch on this motor
 

texas_salt

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UPDATE:

spark is back on the top cylinder. There was a tiny piece of who knows what stopping a solid connection on the point. I got it off and the multimeter gave me the numbers I wanted. Spark ofcourse was there after flywheel was put on.

Its kind of concerning that one day its firing, the next day, its not, all from a tiny speck. I just like to assume it was there all along, even after cleaning, and build up finally got to it.
 

jwcole04

Cadet
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Jul 30, 2023
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P.S. the motor also came with a 3 gallon portable tank. There is no manual vent, its in the cap. I cant help but wonder if that could be a culprit.
I have one of these I bought for $50 and got running pretty good. How do you stop it? I don't see a kill switch, and the tiller handle is no longer readable. I just turn the throttle all the way down and it dies on it's own (I said it runs pretty good - not great).
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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36,047
You stop it by turning the handle.----Post your compression values.----These motors are just so easy to get running ---" great " ---if they are in good condition.
 
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