'83 Evinrude 115hp driving my crazy(water pump)

Fed

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I'm wondering if you can dislodge a deflector by forcing bulk water backwards through the block?

There was a point where water flowed from both heads with the 2 rubber hoses disconnected from the thermostat housing, correct?

So far I'm reading this as a blocked indicator and blocked up thermostats with the rest being self inflicted.
Welcome to the joys of boating ashedd.
 

Bosunsmate

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So far I'm reading this as a blocked indicator and blocked up thermostats with the rest being self inflicted.
Welcome to the joys of boating ashedd.

And the iboat joys of reading what other people get up too!
AShedd, just wrip into it and do it once and properly and then you wont need to stress while out on the water. Clean up all the gunk off the sides of the cylinders too when you get the head off and post some photos of it and the cylinders.

The quickest way to break the heads off the bolts is to screw the bolt backwards under pressure. Always if they are tight back out a little and then screw back in a touch and keep repeating that, otherwise the threads stay full of gunk , they tighten up and then they snap off.
If you heat up the bolt, get it hot and then hit it a couple of times, that helps break up the corrosion in there. Dont heat up and turn as that means you have made the bolt larger and you are more likely to make it stick, some people heat the surrounding casing so the hole gets bigger.
Ive never mastered this unfortunately, i dont have a good torch to practice with
 

ashedd

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I'll look at it Monday and report back. This broken trim is gonna be a problem too.
 

ashedd

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All the head bolts came out like butter....
I didn't think the passages around the cylinders looked that bad..
Should I just keep scrapping this stuff off? Seems more like salt than corrosion to me. I'm having a hard time getting all the gasket material off of those outer cylinder head covers. Guess I could soak them in something?







 
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Fed

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The deflectors are shot.
Remember they are there to stop the water taking a sideways shortcut.
The water is supposed to come in at the bottom then up the side, over the top cylinder then back down the other side and out the bottom to the head covers.
Then up the head cover channels and down the head cover channels and finally out to the thermostat housing.

In fact the deflectors in the pics look too big like someone has just shoved some old fuel line in there.

Buy genuine OMC deflectors and also clean up the head covers.

The passages around the cylinders look fine.
 

oldboat1

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It's all grunt work. Use a small screwdriver or pick, and scrape salt and debris out of all the passages, including the ones that look clear. I take the old gaskets off with a combination of shop rags and solvent (I like lacquer thinner), along with a blade. Be very careful with the blade, but slight nicks aren't fatal as you are going to resurface everything anyway (wet/dry sandpaper on a hard surface.) For powerhead mating surfaces, a sanding block works. But the heads and those covers have to be cleaned and scraped, then resurfaced to the point they are shiny and flush with no warpage.

That one piston head could be cleaned up too with some carb cleaner and sandpaper -- not sure what that's about, but no point in not cleaning it up while you're in there.

So, replace the deflectors and you're good to go.
 

ashedd

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Hopefully this does it and nothing is blocking water at the base of the power head(exhaust valve?). Was really thinking about getting a 70hp johnson that's for sale locally but I've been told 70 won't move the boat all that well and the 115hp is perfect, although a 90 hp(88 spl) popped up today. My resolve in this project was renewed today on the water in my other boat when I saw a guy go past with an old V4 that was custom painted to match his boat. So I guess I should order a trim/tilt unit from ebay, since mine doesn't pump any longer and looks like hell.
 

Fed

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Just to be sure we're on the same page the deflector in your 5th picture is NO good and will completely block the water flow around the cylinders.
 

Fed

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Have you removed the circlip on the manual release valve?
I'd be giving the valve a good try with an impact driver, surely there's some sort of slot left on the head.
 

ashedd

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Just to be sure we're on the same page the deflector in your 5th picture is NO good and will completely block the water flow around the cylinders.

I bought new ones from the dealer, they're smaller than the ones that came out, so I'll put those in.
 

ashedd

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Have you removed the circlip on the manual release valve?
I'd be giving the valve a good try with an impact driver, surely there's some sort of slot left on the head.

No slot left, it was already buggered up before I tried. I have a replacement trim/tilt on it's way
 

Bosunsmate

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Dont think of the 70hp, ever had a car thatyou cant overtake in, well you will be feeling like that the whole day and you wont save much at all on gas as you will have to be throttle down the whole time.
This one will clean up well.
Make sure you reinstall the head gasket using the correct pattern and to the correct torque and then retorque after youve had it running for a few minutes and its cooled down.
Some people retorque after first time out but i find that they need retorqing after they have being through a heat cycle
 

ashedd

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I've been sick but was able to go out today and install the correct size deflectors(OEM) and install the other head. So I got both heads on with new head gaskets and new deflectors. I gave up on cleaning all the corrosion off the cylinder head covers, so instead I have them soaking in vinegar and baking soda in the kitchen. Same with the exhaust cover that I needed to replace the gasket on. They look much much better already. Also my "new" trim/tilt ass'y came today, looks like it'll be fun to get the rusty pin out of the upper cylinder.
 

ashedd

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Finally got back out to the boat today. I fired it up and still didn't get any water flow. Took the LU off again and got water to flow from the inlet tube up into the power head. Found that the impeller key had fallen out. Got it all put together and ran it for 15 mins with the thermostats installed. Both cylinder heads, block and exhaust cover never got hot enough that I couldn't leave my hand on them indefinitely. The right head/block was a tad warmer than the left, which I think is what I've read it's supposed to do. I got luke warm water from the exhaust "drains" right above the cavitation plate.

So everything points to good to go in my mind.. do you agree?
 

Fed

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Sounds like a win mate.

How did the cylinder head covers clean up after the soaking? Easy, hard? I think I have a similar job soon.
 

ashedd

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Sounds like a win mate.

How did the cylinder head covers clean up after the soaking? Easy, hard? I think I have a similar job soon.

Actually they looked a lot better than I thought. I should have taken pics but didn't. You could see where the corrosion was, the metal was discolored, it kinda look galvanized. Weird huh..
Basically the difference was night and day.
 
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