Oil mix - Inconsistant

[1900clueless]

Oil mix is on again, off again or inconsistent and then oil alarm comes on. I rebuilt Carbs, fixed gas leak in one. Found pinched wires (4) no apparent damage. A red valve lever setting, has been moved, tried to reset with no help. I am clueless and overwhelmed with data. 115 Johnson V4, 1996

 

[oldphart120]

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...q/162226-more-about-vro-submitted-by-seahorse

Click on the link to find a good article on the OMC VRO. It gave me a lot of piece of mind concerning my '88 120 hp looper. Basicly, check every thing concerning the oil delivery system before you blame the oil pump. The oil and gas pumps are combined. The gas side is re-buildable, the oil side is not. and a new one is pricey.
Look for air leaks, plugged oil lines or priming bulb, connections, both oil and electrical. Is there enough oil in the tank? IOW look at the pump last. It's the most expensive part. If you're not confident, or the oil pump turns out to be kaput, you can pull the electrical connections to the oil pump, disconnect the oil hose, plug it and mix oil and gas @ 50:1 in the fuel tank. Good luck.

 

[Chris1956]

Air leaks in the gasoline side will cause more oil to be injected.

 

[emdsapmgr]

The red lever on the primer solenoid must be in the "run" position, not in the "service" position. Check your owner's manual. Basically, the length of the red lever must run parallel to the length of the primer solenoid for the "run" position.

 

[fhhuber]

Same symptoms my 150 had when the fuel pump was drawing air through its age-cracked plastic case.

The early 1990's (and older) VRO pumps are getting tired...

Check the VRO pump for cracking plastic. if that has started, its best to just scrap the VRO, put on the 1970's style pump(s) (I think the 115 needs 2) and pre-mix 50:1.

Appx $90 for each replacement non-VRO pump.
Appx $450 for a new VRO pump.

And while you are messing with them... replace the fuel lines.

I've seen too many 1980's and 1990's Johnsons limping in on the trolling motor due to VRO failures around here. The alarm goes off just in time to tell you that you threw a rod.

 

[Cat nip]

VRO stands for very rarely oiled
Disconnect and mix the oil with the fuel. Its the best piece of mind you can have.

 

[1900clueless]

Thanks to each of you for your response. Now to get busy and see if I can do this..

 

[racerone]

The 115 only uses 1 pump.---On the crossflow models the spot to get pulses is already there.---Easy to install.

 

[flyingscott]

What alarm are you getting ,there is a specific test procedure for the pump itself the service manual will have it. Your motor has the updated OMS pump so you have the better alarm and ethanol parts in it. If you had the oiling being on and off your motor would be damaged by now. Let me translate VRO talk for you.

The alarm went off and I didn't have time to shut it down.
Translation for that is- I heard the alarm and thought I could make it back to the dock.

I have seen to many of these limping in to the dock because of VRO Failures
Translation- The motor said VRO on the hood so that had to be it.Unless you are under the hood how do you know the VRO went out.

One Cylinder is scored must be the VRO went out.
Translation- Haven't changed my waterpump in 20 yrs. Or had my carbs serviced

My friend of a friends motor died because the vro went out.
Translation I read on the internet somewhere somebodies motor motor died and it must have been the VRO

The VRO gets blamed for over 90% of the problems it never causes. I am not saying yours is good or bad but test it first then make your decision.
The VRO system is a good system it works well. The real achilles heel of this system is the plastic hose clamps that Evinrude used on them. When I service them I put oetiker clamps on them.

 

[Chris1956]

I am with Scott. The 1996 VRO (actually OMS) Pump is a good, reliable unit. What alarm are you getting? Overheat, low oil and No Oil are your options for alarms.

 

[fhhuber]

When the VRO pump's plastic body is cracking and leaking... its game over... and one look at the cracked pump plus the pieces of con rods sticking through the block is a pretty good indication.

These guys never come in with the cover still on the engine.

 

[flyingscott]

When the VRO pump's plastic body is cracking and leaking... its game over... and one look at the cracked pump plus the pieces of con rods sticking through the block is a pretty good indication.

These guys never come in with the cover still on the engine.

You are a better mechanic than I am. I can't just look at a motor coming off the lake with the hood off and decide the VRO Failed

 

[1900clueless]

Thanks to all, To continue my fix (fix's) After carb rebuild, changing out hose clamps, changed filters, motor seams to run well now. The (No oil) light and alarm go's off and engine stops, I think this is due to no gas. Ball lost prime, this has been an on going problem, last year after running at a higher speed and would cut off 2 or 3 minutes at low speed. Squeezed bulb up hard and runs until it looses prime. Also while fueling, gas will not go into tank, as if it is full. Is this two separate issues or tank/line problem ???????????

 

[flyingscott]

Pump the ball while this is happening that will tell you if it's a fuel pump problem if it goes a way a fuel pump problem. If it does nothing to fix it then it is something else. Does the ball go flat while it is running. Did you take the oil line off of the pump at all or disconnect it anywhere.

 

[ondarvr]

If you run it that way you have a very good chance of destroying the motor, so fix it before using it again.

 

[1900clueless]

"Pump the ball while this is happening that will tell you if it's a fuel pump problem if it goes a way a fuel pump problem. If it does nothing to fix it then it is something else. Does the ball go flat while it is running. Did you take the oil line off of the pump at all or disconnect it anywhere."

It will pump back up and run. The ball do's not go flat, just looses prime

 

[racerone]

Fuel will not go into your tank ???------Perhaps your problems are as simple as a venting issue with your fuel tank.-----I would look at that " forthwith "

 

[fhhuber]

With cover off the engine.
Engine in normal planing "level" Not raised significantly as that can prevent the carb floats from sealing the gas inlet. You need to be able to build pressure in the fuel line.

Pump the priming bulb up and squeeze it hard.
Look at the fuel pump.

If its leaking its time to rebuild it or replace it.

You might also find leaking fuel hoses/fittings.

If you can squeeze the bulb and have fuel come out the seals of the pump or hoses before the pump, the pump can pull air. If its pulling air you end up running lean and that can be as bad as not getting adequate oil.

 

[1900clueless]

Again thanks to all who have responded, While pumping ball I can keep it running.... I ordered a new VRO pump, so I removed pump and all the parts looked in very good condition, except at bottom of pump where it separated partly where plastic casing fits together, there are two one way (valves?) which was exposed about the size of a dime with no way to repair other than glue or clamp. I just don't know if I damaged it or not when I removed pump. I don' feel like I did. Any way a new one is in the mail and hope that that separation was the problem. Note the casing at separation had six short stubs to align and hold in place, and this piece leads into a inlet or outlet hose fitting....... Please feel free to comment.

 

[fhhuber]

That separation could be the original issue.

You should also inspect all of your fuel lines. Maybe just replace them because you are in there.