1955 Johnson QD 16 Restoration

[pckeen]

I picked up a 1955 Johnson QD 16 that I'm restoring. I'll finish the mechanical restoration before I attempt a cosmetic restoration. I had a thread on this last year, but can't locate it. So here's the story so far.

I found a pressurized tank - disssasembled, cut a new gasket and repainted it. The tank seemed to work.
I replaced the coils, plugs and wires on the motor, and tested them - both came up when tested through the wires, at 4.79-4.81 k ohms
When I ran the motor last year - it persistently ran on one cylinder only

I pulled the motor out of storage last year and found water inside the cowling. Gaaaaaahhhh. Had a minor flood in the storage area this year. Fortunately, no visble signs of rust inside. Drained the motor, sprayed the interior with fogging oil, and I'm leaving it open to dry out.

As for compression - compression is 102 psi on the top cylinder, and 100 on the bottom, although these were measured after I had added fogging oil.

So my plan is to replace the points and condensors. I cleaned and set the points last year, but with the persistent failure to run on two cylinders, I figure a replacement would be sensible. I also switched the condensors - which made no difference to how the motor ran, but again, given the persistent failure to run, I'll replace them too.

Next - I didn't clean the carb last year, but when I stripped it down tonight, the needle looks a little worn, and the gasket inside the rich/idle thread was disintegrating.

So, here are the questions I have:
1) Could a dirty carb result in a motor persistently running on only one cylinder?
2) Anyone know where I can locate a parts diagram. My usual source for parts diagrams for this motor (a site that involves a marine and an engine and a dot com), has removed the pdf parts diagram for this motor.
3) Do the ohms readings sound right - or is there a sign of a problem there as well.

Thanks all. I'll post some pics as soon as photobucket is no longer down for maintenance.

 

[flyingscott]

Change the points and condensers, rebuild kits are available for the tanks. Put a google search in for the carb diagram it's out there.

 

[oldboat1]

(All -- here's the earlier thread (lot of prior detail on this project): http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...10057337-1955-johnson-qd-16-restoration/page2 .)

 

[F_R]

Obviously, the carburetor needed attention. But that will not make it run on one cylinder. It feeds both cylinders. Your coils are fine. Breaker points are the most common cause of running on one. Even new ones need cleaning. If you will post your question at www.aomci.org somebody there probably will provide you with a parts list.

 

[Weirdboymike]

Had the same problem with my '54 15 hp evinrude (only sparked on one cylinder). The coils seemed to be fine but replaced them anyway and kept them as spares. Still nothing but noticed that one condenser lead wasn't routed correctly by previous owner and had rubbed the insulation clean down to the copper wire. I believe it shorted out the condenser or something... Anywho replaced both condensers and BAM spark on both and now running great. I kept the condenser I knew was still good as a spare. They are cheap, just replace and see what happens.

 

[pckeen]

Hmmm. When I re-read the thread - looks like I did clean it - I'm guessing the dirt and crud I found came from the disentegrating gasket. I'll re-clean (again), the points, and try firing it up to see what happens before ordering new ones.

 

[64osby]

If the coils are good you might look at pulling the caps off the spark wire and trimming the lead back about 1/2". Then reinstall the cap and plug connector.

 

[pckeen]

Well - ordered all the parts, including new points, condensers and a carb kit.

 

[pckeen]

So points, condensors and the carb kit arrived today. Rebuilt carb and replaced points and coils. The comments about cleaning the points were bang on - when I removed the old points, they had a dark finish on it. Carbon scoring perhaps? New points are gapped to .020" I did a quick test tonight - I do have spark, so hopefully tomorrow, I can get this on the lake and give it a test run.....and then the next task will be to rebuild the leaking bottom end.

 

[HighTrim]

Pm me with your email address and Ill send you a parts manual. Im just south of you in Hamilton.

 

[pckeen]

Done - thanks.

OK - so FINALLY, it's running on two cylinders, and seems to have lots of power. That's the good news.....

Bad news is it kept dying. It isn't getting enough gas - I diagnosed this by simpy repeatedly hitting the pump button on the tank - that kept it running, and revved up the motor.

I rebuilt the pressure tank last year, and picked up a new hose and used gas connection, though I didn't replace the internal components in the tank. I don't believe the tank is leaking (I fabricated a new gasket for it, and I didn't hear any hissing), but I noticed that the gas connection between the hose and engine isn't staying on properly.

So - first question - how do I diagnose what part is failing here - is it definitely the tank, or could it be something inside the powerhead, or should I simply install a fuel pump?

Second question - I may need to do a seal kit on the lower unit, but before I do this, do I put regular gear oil in the lower unit, or do I actually need to use grease?

 

[lindy46]

Is the tank pressurizing? After running, do you hear a hiss if you remove the cap? If you can pump the button and keep it running, it sounds like the tank isn't developing enough pressure. Is the "air" line properly connected, and no leaks? Possibly a bad O-ring in the connector. Use 80-90wt marine gear lube.

 

[pckeen]

OK. So successful diagnosis and solution. Motor ran nicely on two cylinders.....but.....

The first problem turned out to be the gas tank - after mounting this on my 50s/60s 14 Lonestar, followed by a brief splash and a feeble run last night, I could hear an escaping gas smell from the tank. I removed the gas cap to check for the condition of the rubber gasket and.....no gasket. So tonight I fabricated a new one - and the tank is now building and holding plenty of pressure. I got the motor running (after about 20 pulls), and it ran well on both cylinders for a 5 minute run on the lake. Unfortunately, while running, I noticed gas spurting out of the bowl in the bottom of the carb.

So - I need a new, properly sized gasket, for the clear gas bowl - anyone know where I can get one? I also need to order a lower unit seal kit. Same question - anyone know where I can get one?

 

[pckeen]

OK. Found the parts at vintage outboard - Kit number 22-30001, with payment via paypal. Any advice on how to go about the rebuild?

 

[pckeen]

OK. Rebuild of the lower unit was done. The replacement parts from vintage outboard are not identical to the original ones - but I guess they are as close as you can get to the original. Getting the seals out of the lower unit was a bear. Hopefully it is water tight now. I have a little up and down play in the driveshaft - is that normal to these motors, or a sign I've done something wrong?

 

[pckeen]

Its up and running - had a nice run around the lake yesterday - seems to run well at speed, and here's a video to prove it. Two more issues to work on: it's hard to start, and doesn't idle well (dies when in idle). I haven't tinkered further with the lean/rich idle needle. Any advice?

 

[pckeen]

Just a note so that anyone else looking for spare parts might be able to find it. I had to replace the sediment bowl on the carburetor, and couldn't find a OEM part. There are alternatives, as set out in this ebay purchase I made (which turned out to be a perfect fit): PIONEER 700 750 850 1770 1771 GLASS SEDIMENT FILTER BOWL NEW 303121 OR 507431826 ALSO FITS JOHNSON OMC OUTBOARDS

 

[oldboat1]

Interesting, pckeen. I didn't know there were alternatives. Good to see some running. For what it's worth, it looks to me like your adjustment needles aren't as sensitive as would be expected. First guess is that there's still a carb issue lurking. That bowl fit can be an issue -- air leakage (need a good gasket fit).

 

[pckeen]

I'll go back and take another look. Gasket was also new, but the lower idle needle doesn't seem to make any difference when I turn it.

 

[pckeen]

Well, a busy season last fall stopped me from winterizing the QD-16, so it sat outside all winter, and came off the boat this spring, so I could get another motor up and running. I wasn't looking forward to starting it up again this spring, but I run stablized gas in all my boats, so my fingers were crossed that the gas wouldn't have turned into varnish over winter.

put the QD-16 back on the boat a couple of days ago, and it fired up nicely - nice easy start. Same thing today. It still doesn't idle at very slow speed happily, but it ran pretty well, and will idle when there is a little throttle on.

Couple of issues - the three pronged fuel connection isn't holding on to the male coupler all that well. It also leaks gas when the gas tank is under pressure and left plugged in.