Won't start when boat is in water

[Leastbay]

1973 25hp. Starts fine in a shallow trash can but I put the boat in the water today and couldn't get it started. Got boat home and it started. What's next? Compression test? If the compression is bad what's next? Should I scrap it

 

[racerone]

Does the choke close and stay closed when you pull the rope ??-----Are you using the " start " marking on the handle or turning it till it stops againt nuetral interlock ?

 

[Leastbay]

Choke is closed. I'm turning the grip all the way like I do in my driveway.

 

[Commodore_Bert]

Using the same fuel source as in the driveway as in the boat?

 

[Bosunsmate]

Compression test then decide whats next.
Scrap is only last resort and rare for that to happen too.
Clean your plugs when they are out for the test and report back on their colour

 

[Leastbay]

Same fuel. Just mixed it yesterday. Ethanol free with quicksilver oil.

 

[Leastbay]

I actually cleaned the plugs yesterday, they were normal color kinda new looking but somewhat wet​

 

[flyingscott]

After compression test make sure it's firing on both cylinders.

 

[Leastbay]

will do, just ordered the compression gauge from amazon, will post back saturday with results

 

[Chrisravosa36]

If the compression is bad, you definitely should not scrap it. It could be as simple as a new head gasket, or as complex as new rings (not to bad). Will it run when using starting fluid? How many pulls does it take to start? Do you notice a loss of power at all? Keep us updated, seems like an interesting topic!

 

[thdrduck]

The choke is "pulled" on by a very small spring. Any resistance at all and it won't close, mine hangs up on my 20 all the time. I've had fun with that a boat ramps many times... pull the choke, two are three pulls, nothing, smack the side of the engine with my hand (I can even hear the little devil snap closed) pull one time and running. People see that and ask how I did it and I just tell them you need to show it whos boss and smile. Maybe could fix it... but what fun would that be.

 

[Leastbay]

compression on both cylinders 125+

I bought the spark gap tester from autozone but am a little confused on what I should be doing. I do not have electric start. I can get a small orange spark of both of the metal pieces are close.Should I run the motor and test each side while running? There are numbers marked on the tool, do I set one at 0 and the other at 30? I cant get the spark to jump anywhere near that far while pulling the rope. It seems over an inch.

 

[AlTn]

set the gap < distance between the threaded rod end and the grounded end of your tester > to ~5/16"...make sure the tester clamp end , if that's the type you have, is clamped to a clean ground on the motor...remove both spark plugs < and ground the lead not being tested to do it by the book as there is some risk that fuel mix coming from the open spark plug hole could ignite if a spark is present >...your ignition components should produce a blue spark that will jump that gap with your manual starter

 

[Leastbay]

alright the bottom one wont jump the gap that far, only if I push it real close. Whats next? Should i buy a tune up kit?

 

[racerone]

Sounds like the points need cleaning.-----------No need to rush out and spend $$ as some folks do.

 

[oldboat1]

^^like AITn describes -- first make sure the tester is well grounded.

good you have spark on both, anyway. I would work on points. Clean and regap them to .020, then try again.

 

[Leastbay]

alright, Ill pull the flywheel and take a look, should I use a fine sandpaper?

 

[AlTn]

not critical as to sandpaper grade, I use #400 , fold a small piece so both point contacts are cleaned simultaneously when the points are closed on the paper, 4 or 5 passes are usually sufficent, then clean the grit off with some spray carb cleaner while pulling a business card, folded over coffee filter, etc. through.. the idea is to not leave any residue or fibers behind...to really clean them you should remove them from the armature plate and do each contact individually...the described method is the " usually sufficient" method..the point set closest to the carb is for the Top Cylinder...you can just snug the f/w back on to check for spark, don't forget to retorque it when you're finished

 

[Leastbay]

it looks like one set of the points has no gap in between, do I adjust it with the phillips screw?

 

[lindy46]

Make sure the rub block on the pointset is at the high point on the cam, then adjust the slotted eccentric screw with a slotted screwdriver, to .020".