1980 Evinrude 2HP mate. leaky after rebuild and question about air intake?

jimmwaller

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Nov 30, 2013
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So, I have a 1980 evinride mate 2hp. I just rebuilt the carb. Put in new versions of everything that came out. Just tried to run it today and it ran but there was a small drip coming out of the lower adjustment screw. When I pull the screw all the way out the gas just gushes out.

Did I miss a gasket or something? Can anyone verify the number and order of gaskets that go in there? Or is this normal to have a slowish drip and for it to gush when the screw it out?

One more question. Off the back of my carb is a black plastic intake thing. Is it supposed to have a filter anywhere? I didn't see anything on the parts list but I guess I don't know for sure. In my motor it's just empty black plastic, no filter element whatsoever.

Can anyone verify what it supposed to go in there, if anything?

thanks!
 

F_R

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Jul 7, 2006
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1. It should gush with the needle out, but should not drip with it in, In order from the packing nut, the parts should be the packing nut, a thin plastic washer, then two packings. If you have the parts in there, tighten the packing nut so the needle turns somewhat snugly. That should fix the drip.

2. That is a silencer, not a filter. Nothing goes in it. It does not need an air filter because there is very little dust kicked up on the lake.
 

jimmwaller

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ah thanks. I think i got the leak to stop. Now having a different difficulty... my motor only seems to want to run at high speeds? once it drops down around or below "start" is dies.
Is this a mixture adjustment or did I maybe adjust the float incorrectly? followed the directions that came with the rebuild kit but this weird not running at low speeds thing is new.

any help would be appreciated, thanks
 

hardwater fisherman

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Have you tried to adjust the slow speed needle? There is a good thread on this in the top secret files under the heading HOW DO I ADJUST MY CARBS. The top secret files can be found as the first thread in this forum. If you did not already know that.
 

jimmwaller

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Hi-
I've tried every needle adjustment from all the way in to falling out in 1/4 turn increments. no change. i figured it must be something else.

But I will go through the carb adjustment again.... maybe i missed something
 

steelespike

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Apr 26, 2002
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They don't recommend soaking in carb cleaner.
If you turn the idle mix all the way in it should stall.
The idle speed adjustment shouldn't be too low. But it sounds like you missed something in the
rebuild. Float set wrong,Float valve installed wrong.
Choke assembled wrong
By the way there a nice video on tube of a 2 hp on a little jon that actually planes.
just search 2 hp Jon boat.
 
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jimmwaller

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yeah i was thinking maybe the float was set wrong? My rebuild kit came with instructions to set the float but according to those directions mine was waaaaayy off, which doesn't seem right. Halfway through the rebuild I also got the feeling that my rebuild kit was intended for multiple carb kits, as there were a lot of extra parts that I didn't use.


I didn't see anything about how to set the float on this carb in particular, does anyone know how to set this? thanks!!
 

hardwater fisherman

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All of my manuals say when the float bowl is turned upside the float should be flush and level with the lip of the float bowl. Also be sure that you did not install the float upside down.
 
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jimmwaller

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hi-
thanks for the reply. How do you measure this? My float is attached to the carb body, the float bowl just pops off separately. In my directions it said to turn the carb body upside down and the float should be level with the lip of the carb body.... that is, if the carb body is parallel with the ground, the float should also be parallel with the ground. But the float sticks up a few mm above the lip of the body when the assembly is upside down, it's definitely not level with where the lip of the bowl would be.

thanks!
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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How long have you owned this motor ?------Why was the carburetor rebuilt ?--------If there are running problems has any other trouble shooting been done ?------Have you checked for strong spark, must jump a gap of 1/4" or more.
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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I do recommend disassembly and soaking of the carb metal parts, with special attention to the high speed nozzle (soak, clean with a small piece of wire, blow it out). Do something similar up at the low speed passages on top. Take the expansion plug out and clean under there (soak the body). Clean out the small holes in there. Clean the low speed needle and lightly screw it in place with that top fitting removed -- should see the tip enter the body, and get a feel of what it feels like when seated. At the same time, test out ignition function. Hard to say what your issue is -- could be both.
 

jimmwaller

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So, I ran through everything I could find on carb rebuilds and tuning. At this point, I have it to where I'm pretty sure the issue is my low speed adjustment. It seems to run much better when the needle is basically out?that is, when the slow speed screw is pulled all the way out it will die, but when it's out but then put back in so it just sits in there without being screwed in or maybe just screwed in a turn or something just to hold it there, it runs better. Not perfect yet, but better. It can drop down below the start position and still run, which is promising. However, I'm noticing that the needle is also really loose. When it's screwed in all the way and then backed out a turn, it feels like it's going to rattle out of the threads because it's just so loose in there. I didn't see this specifically addressed in the top secret thread, but I'm guessing if I tighten down the packing nut, this should squish the washer out enough that it tightens things up?

Could this loose needle be causing my issues?

Thanks!!
 
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