1979 Evinrude 85HP v4 crossflow wont start when cold

04xr6t

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Oct 27, 2015
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Hi Guys/gals
First i will introduce myself.
Im a 40 year old bloke who is a motor mechanic by trade.
I have found a new hobby which is driving me nuts but loving it at the same time.
I have myself a 1979 Evinrude 85hp v4 crossflow.
I have done a full Power Head rebuild, rebuilt carbs, and rebuilt fuel pump.
Here is my issue
1/ prime the carbs using the fuel take primer bulb
2/ turn the key (pushed in for choke) and the engine WILL NOT START
3/ Spray carbs with fuel and engine fires then cuts out, spray again engine fires up and cuts out (of course due to only spraying fuel in carbs)
4/ spray fuel again into carbs, engine fires and runs/revs fine

My thoughts are
no fuel is being injected into the carbs, for cold start
I cant find anything in google or my manual that tell me if im missing something off my carbs (like a manual primer bulb) not fuel tank primer bulb.

Any help would be appressiated (i have pics if needed)

Darren
 

GA_Boater

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Welcome aboard, 04.

On #1 - Are you squeezing the bulb 'til it's very firm or hard?

On #4 - After the second spray, it starts and stays running?
 

04xr6t

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Hi thanks for the reply
I squeeze the fuel tank primer bulb till its basicly rock hard
I would say after the third spray the engine fires and runs by itsself
 

racerone

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Are you operating the fast idle lever ?------If you are doing that does the timer base rotate to advance timing a little ?
 

emdsapmgr

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That engine is a bear to start cold when the choke does not work. When you push in on the key to choke it, do the choke butterflys close completely? You may have to take the airbox cover off to see the action...
 

04xr6t

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Are you operating the fast idle lever ?------If you are doing that does the timer base rotate to advance timing a little ?


Fast idel lever?
All i do is turn the key and wind over
am i ment to be doing something else?
 

04xr6t

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That engine is a bear to start cold when the choke does not work. When you push in on the key to choke it, do the choke butterflys close completely? You may have to take the airbox cover off to see the action...


I have adjusted the auto choke solinoid, so that when the key is pushed in and turned, both the choke butterflies shut, once key is back in run posistion, the choke butterflies open all the way back up.

If i talk "car language"
Dont these carbs have a accel plunger, to give the initial squirt of fuel?
 

04xr6t

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No. Not like a car at all.



ha ha , this is why im having issues lol

So does it rely on the negative vacuum drawing in the fuel on start up

Is there a manual primer that can squirt fuel in, that can be installed?
 

racerone

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There are no accelerator pumps.----Perhaps have somone show you how to operate the control box !!!!!
 

oldboat1

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does sound like starting procedure. Not sure where the manual choke is on that rascal, but might manually choke it for cold starting. The old '70 I had had a choke knob on the lower cover (pretty sure I was in the habit of starting it with the manual choke).
 

GA_Boater

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The priming is done with the bulb. It fills the carbs.

For cold starts you need to advance the throttle. Your control has either a warm-up lever or a neutral lock which is used to disconnect the gear shift portion of the control from the throttle. If your control looks anything like the one below, the neutral lock button is under the handle ( item #54) and is squeezed to allow the throttle to be advanced for the warm-up function with the motor still in neutral.

To start - Prime with the bulb, squeeze the neutral lock button and advance the throttle, and turn the key and push in at the same time. When the motor kicks the first time, keep the key in the start position, but stop pushing the key in. After the motor starts, release the key and let it warm some before pulling the throttle back to the neutral position. You may need to play around some to find the best throttle advance spot.

This is a parts diagram that may be like your remote. It came from http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E...e-37745d678217
remote.PNG
 
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04xr6t

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The priming is done with the bulb. It fills the carbs.

For cold starts you need to advance the throttle. Your control has either a warm-up lever or a neutral lock which is used to disconnect the gear shift portion of the control from the throttle. If your control looks anything like the one below, the neutral lock button is under the handle ( item #54) and is squeezed to allow the throttle to be advanced for the warm-up function with the motor still in neutral.

To start - Prime with the bulb, squeeze the neutral lock button and advance the throttle, and turn the key and push in at the same time. When the motor kicks the first time, keep the key in the start position, but stop pushing the key in. After the motor starts, release the key and let it warm some before pulling the throttle back to the neutral position. You may need to play around some to find the best throttle advance spot.

This is a parts diagram that may be like your remote. It came from http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E...e-37745d678217



wow
i never knew there was a advance switch under the control lever

Thanks heaps i will give it a go when i get home from work (fingers crossed)
Thanks heaps
 

dwco5051

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Sep 14, 2008
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wow
i never knew there was a advance switch under the control lever

Thanks heaps i will give it a go when i get home from work (fingers crossed)
Thanks heaps
Actually the timer base moves along with the butterflys to advance the spark as the throttle is moved forward. No centrifical or vacuum change in timing like the old distributors. Once you figure out how to unlock the throttle from the gears you should be able to start the engine as others have described. My experience with these older crossfires is they need to start really rich. I currently run a 1990 175 and it needs at least two minutes of warm up after a cold start. For the rest of the day it is just turn the key and it starts in a half a revolution.
 
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emdsapmgr

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When you want choke, you need to push in on the key. If you quit pushing in on the key while cranking, the choke plates will open. You may be thinking that if you just push in for a second, that the plates will close till the engine starts. It won't. You need to push(hold) in on the key while cranking-maybe 10 seconds. Once started, you may need to push back in on the key every 10 seconds till the engine warms up and it can run by itself. Maybe for the first 30-40 seconds after start.
 
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