Evinrude 175 Ocean Pro submerged 12 years ago... A look inside

[Andrik]

I have started several threads regarding this motor, according to the previous owner, the motor was submerged in 2003. I do not know what was done then, but I know that it has been in use for several years after that. The motor had not been in use for three years when I bought it.

I have overhauled the carbs, and it has fired. I decided today to have a look behind the intake manifold. I found some very smooth sandy material behind the leaf valves, please see the attached pictures. Is my only choice to take out the powerhead, clean it, and change the piston rings to make this a safe motor?

The compression was from 78 to 95 PSI (cold motor, and before the carbs were overhauled)

 

[racerone]

Compression values say that the motor must be taken apart for inspection / piston / cylinder work.

 

[HighTrim]

I think you may have been fibbed to about it running for 3 years after it was dunked. That looks like sand to me! Only a matter of time before she self destructs if you run her like that. Just my 2 cents.

 

[reiddo1]

I have started several threads regarding this motor, according to the previous owner, the motor was submerged in 2003. I do not know what was done then, but I know that it has been in use for several years after that. The motor had not been in use for three years when I bought
I have overhauled the carbs, and it has fired. I decided today to have a look behind the intake manifold. I found some very smooth sandy material behind the leaf valves, please see the attached pictures. Is my only choice to take out the powerhead, clean it, and change the piston rings to make this a safe motor?

The compression was from 78 to 95 PSI (cold motor, and before the carbs were overhauled)

Were you told the motor was in operation for several years after submerging or did you witness it in operation? Although I did not examine my reed valves after the engine was submerged (I merely drained the salt water from the carburetors) my compression on the engine warm is 110 to 120. The engine runs better than before the incident. Was your engine submerged for a long time? Mine was submerged for only 4 hours and was back running the next day. Immediately after refloating the boat all cylinders were lubed with 2 stroke oil.

 

[Andrik]

Were you told the motor was in operation for several years after submerging or did you witness it in operation? Although I did not examine my reed valves after the engine was submerged (I merely drained the salt water from the carburetors) my compression on the engine warm is 110 to 120. The engine runs better than before the incident. Was your engine submerged for a long time? Mine was submerged for only 4 hours and was back running the next day. Immediately after refloating the boat all cylinders were lubed with 2 stroke oil.

No, I never witnessed it, and do not know what was done after the submerging. When I got the motor, as you know the bendix drive did not work, the starter was corroded inside and the tilt motor full of water. I thought this could be due to the three years out of service and stored outside, but I start to doubt it.

 

[RxBoat]

I am assuming that this was a salt water submersion. I am currently working on a 6hp Evinrude that submerged in the ocean. I got the motor after6 months. I have taken the power head apart completely. I would strongly recommend complete dissassembly, cleaning, lubrication repair or replacement of internal parts as needed, then re-assembly. This is in my humble opinion the only way to ensure a reliable motor going forward if that is what you are looking for.

 

[jakedaawg]

Doesn't really matter what happened to it, with those comp readings it has to be inspected.

 

[reiddo1]

Yes it seems that you are into at least removal of the heads to have a look at the cylinder walls for scoring and possible ring/head damage.

 

[emdsapmgr]

I'd throw the reed boxes away. Likely other internal parts may need to see the scrap barrel too. The big thing is just what do the crank journals and bearing surfaces look like? Does not take much to rust them and pit them. If the crank bearing surfaces are shot, you are into some major expense, even for a used one.

 

[Andrik]

Thanks

I will have a project for the winter...

 

[reiddo1]

Sounds like the beginning of a rewarding exercise. Normal when buying used to have issues like this and only after a tear down do you establish a datum base. Good luck

 

[Andrik]

No Title

Update; I have taken the crankcase apart, and need to change the crankshaft, and all the connecting rods too. Are some bad spots and scratches. I have deglazed the cylinders, and they are free from scratches. I have bought crankshaft in very good shape with bearings and connecting rods from an Ficht that only has run 150 hours. The crankshaft and connectiong rods have the same parts number as on my ocean pro, but the pistons not. They look identical except from the whole as seen on the left side of the ficht piston, and the whole on the top of the ficht piston. Does anyone know if I could use the Ficht pistons on my Ocean Pro?

 

[bob johnson]

Update; I have taken the crankcase apart, and need to change the crankshaft, and all the connecting rods too. Are some bad spots and scratches. I have deglazed the cylinders, and they are free from scratches. I have bought crankshaft in very good shape with bearings and connecting rods from an Ficht that only has run 150 hours. The crankshaft and connectiong rods have the same parts number as on my ocean pro, but the pistons not. They look identical except from the whole as seen on the left side of the ficht piston, and the whole on the top of the ficht piston. Does anyone know if I could use the Ficht pistons on my Ocean Pro?

with just the fact that the ficht piston has a massive hole in the middle...Id say there is NO WAY you can use that piston.......of course it will "fit"...but that doesn't mean it will "work"........that piston was designed to work with Ficht heads and Ficht intake system........

bob