1966 100HP Johnson Golden Meteor V4ML-12 Rebuild

WoodHoarder

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Hello All,

I have been reading on this forum for several months and would like to post my project and solicit advice from such knowledgeable people. I would also like to document this experience to the benefit of others who would like to attempt a rebuild of a similar engine.

Here is what I’m working with: 1966 100HP Johnson Golden Meteor V4ML-12

Background: This engine was free to me, mounted on a 1963 Lonestar Biscayne. When I started with it, I didn’t even know how an engine worked. So far it has been an incredible learning experience. At this point, from my research on forums and experience in general, I’m generally aware (getting new surprises all the time) of what I’m getting into and the costs involved.
Work so far:
Obtained factory service manual, Rebuilt Carb, Resealed Lower Unit (Type “C” oil), New Throttle Cable, Rebuilt fuel Pump, new fuel lines, changed impeller.

Running Experience So far:
Taken out on the lake twice. Electromatic Shifts Forward and Reverse. Extremely Difficult to cold start. Runs strong at full throttle and stalls out at idle. Used to start easily when warm-difficulty starting seems to have gotten worse over time. Sounds like it is suffering from pre-ignition.

Diagnostics:
Compression Test: Cylinder 1 -90psi, 2-80psi, 3- 85psi, 4-? (Blew tester off, stripping threads spark plug threads)
Spark: Shows Spark in 4 Cylinders.

Where I’m at now: When doing the compression test on cylinder 4 the threads stripped out of the spark plug hole. I pulled the head and the bypass covers on the starboard side. I noted a lot of carbon buildup on both piston heads. There are scores on the piston walls that I can catch a nail on. Bottom side of both pistons show blow-by and scoring on the piston skirts. I haven't yes assessed the port pistons yet.

Plan moving forward: I plan to disassemble the powerhead entirely/removing broken bolts and return it to working condition. Likely over boring cylinders. I am in the process of disassembly now. I've so far obtained a new starboard head and head gaskets. Sound good?

Questions so far: I am attempting to cross reference the parts utilizing the ***************** website. The 1966 part list shows no oversize pistons/rings. The 1967 part list shows .20 oversize pistons (part #0385288). Both blocks are the same updated part number and the standard piston part numbers are the same. Is it safe to assume that these pistons will work in my block?

I’ve found a new Johnson 1965 60hp 060553(part#0382684) block for sale. The back side of the block looks similar to mine in the pictures, but the front side is different. Is it possible that I can use the rear end of that block with the cylinders and mate it to the front end of mine, eliminating the need to rebore?

I appreciate any advice/suggestions on this project. I know this is a bit long winded, but I wanted let all interested know precisely what it is that I’m dealing with.

Thanks
 
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HighTrim

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Jun 21, 2007
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No you cannot swap crank halves. They must stay together as a set.

Try posting a wanted ad for a good powerhead at aomci.org perhaps in the classifieds? If you do decide to rebuild yours, posting for parts there will get you a MUCH better deal than paying individual retail prices.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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The 66 model 100 hp is a great motor.--But simply forget about trying to use a 60 hp block with it !!---The 67 pistons will work just fine.
 

F_R

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Woodholder, I tried to look up the oversize pistons & rings numbers but hit a snag. V4ML-4 seems like an incorrect number. A 1966 should be V4ML-12 Check your numbers and come back.
 

HighTrim

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My book is showing the 020 piston to be 378814 and the ring for that piston to be 380111

If you have to go 040 that piston is 378815 and that ring is 380112

But as Frank stated, that is for the V4ML-12 (1966)

If you can get away with just a hone, the standard piston is 380569 and those rings are
 

F_R

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Confirming what High Trim said...But..
378814 is changed to 385288
378815 is changed to 385292
380111 is changed to 382826
380112 is changed to 382827
380569 is changed to 385282
 

WoodHoarder

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Thanks for the fast responses. You guys are great! I did make a typo error on the model number. It is V4ML-12. I'm slowly disassembling the engine now. Carb is off along with fuel pump, throttle connectors and some of the electrical components. I am seeing that frozen bolts are going to be a problem.


I'm going to do some sourcing on the part numbers you guys gave and see what the general availability is. I'm thinking that at least one will certainly need a re-bore. I'll let the machine shop measure and make the determination. Hopefully I can get away with a hone on some of the others. From what I read on the forums, it is ok to overbore some pistons and not others? Is this correct for this model?

I'll try to post some pictured of the cylinders so you can see.

Thanks again!
 

jbcurt00

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Fixed the title typo, any other V4ML-4 references remain, but as you've posted a correction, I'll leave the rest.
 

F_R

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Thanks for the fast responses. You guys are great! I did make a typo error on the model number. It is V4ML-12. I'm slowly disassembling the engine now. Carb is off along with fuel pump, throttle connectors and some of the electrical components. I am seeing that frozen bolts are going to be a problem.


I'm going to do some sourcing on the part numbers you guys gave and see what the general availability is. I'm thinking that at least one will certainly need a re-bore. I'll let the machine shop measure and make the determination. Hopefully I can get away with a hone on some of the others. From what I read on the forums, it is ok to overbore some pistons and not others? Is this correct for this model?

I'll try to post some pictured of the cylinders so you can see.

Thanks again!


I've bored lots of motors (we had our own boring bar and also did bore jobs for other dealers). And yes it is ok to bore one, two, three or whatever, cylinders. You won't be able to detect any difference once the job is complete.
 

S.A. Baker

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Thought I was the only one working on one of those ! Quite the learning experience! Mine is excellent pistons,cylinders and compression wise. The rest not so much ! You have choke options on those for cold starting under the front cowling hatch. Automatic,which is adjustable like the carb on my old Jeep... Or manual by turning a lever. The heat riser tube was plugged up with rust and crud on mine so it never warmed up enough for the choke to fully open set on automatic. Had the same problem on my Jeep! Havn't totally figured out the rest of the systems . Different than others I've worked on....and I have no manual for this one! Any clue what the switch is that the distributer pushes in at full throtle? Mine only has one wire on it but two male spade connectors.
 
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racerone

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That switch is there to prevent cranking with throttle open too far.---And yes it only needs one wire to it.
 

F_R

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No Title

Like this:
 

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WoodHoarder

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Here are some pictures of the starboard cylinders and blow-by on the bottom of both cylinders.

S.A Baker- I think you are referring to to safety switch. racerone pretty much detailed how it works. Our engine is basically identical to the 1966 100hp Evinrude Starflite. I use the manual from this model. Makes a big difference having it. I see one on sale on ebay right now.

My engine seems to be opposite yours. Everything else works except powerhead is in bad shape.


Blowby 2.jpg Piston Blow by.jpg Cylinder 2.jpg Cylinder 1.jpg
 

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racerone

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Judging by the pictures the motor needs boring work for sure.---If you can find the required parts you will end up with a sweet running motor.---And yes Evinrude is the same except for cosmetics / shift switch and paint colour.
 

S.A. Baker

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Thanks guys on the switch thing! I knew it wasn't a neutral safety switch , as it isn't activated until nearly wide open!
Wood hoarder...from what I can see yours dosn't look really TOO bad! I've seen far worse that still ran! I don't think it will take much to clean that up.
 
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