1979 Evinrude 115 HP Fuel issues, throttle issues, and idle issues

TimmyTim

Cadet
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
6
I recently bought a older boat with a 1979 Evinrude 115 hp V4 2 stroke outboard motor. I love 2 stroke motors because they are easier to work on but sometimes are very moody. What I have checked so far..
Compression in all 4 cylinders are 123-125
Primer bulb holds pressure
Has 1/2 tank of fresh gas at 50:1

Out in the yard on muffs:
Starting process: Pump bulb, idle level max, choke 2-3 seconds. Engine fires then dies. Repeat process and engine cranks. Leave idle level max 5 seconds then engine idles but appears to idle high. Going from low idle to max idle rev is very slow and takes 5 seconds for the engine to catch up. You can manually turn the top carb and it revs fast.

1rst time to lake:
Had to repeat cranking process 5 times and let max idle for 10 seconds. Idle seemed high and starting was very slow and the engine RPMs had to catch up with the throttle. Then it wouldn't slow down and realized the throttle cable was not connected properly and just trolled the rest of the day.

Out in the yard 2nd trial:
Fixed the throttle cable and repeated cranking process. Still idle high. I turned the idle screw to reduce the idle and no change. Idle screw does not touch the block no more. Revs are slow to catch up with low to max idle.

Out to the lake #2:
I felt like a noob and over choked it. Engine flooded and can smell gas. Full idle or no idle, did not make a difference. It would not crank. I tilted the motor up where the exhaust was out of the water then it cranked fast. Idle still high and slow reaction time between low idle and high idle. Planned out good but slow. Ran around 42 mph (should run around 50-55 mph being a 115 on a 15.5' boat). Going down the lake I could hear it miss fire a little but at random. Stopped and fished for about a hour. Cranking was difficult again. Had to high idle for 10-15 seconds. When put it in gear would go dead. To make it take off you had to high idle then quickly put it in gear before idle dropped. After running at full throttle, I stopped at idle for 10 seconds and took off again with no problem. At one location I was using my fish finder for 15 mins at idle speed. Decided there was no fish and tried to plane out but it died. Had to high idle again for 5 min before it would go again. Behind the boat was white smoke and looked like a oil/fuel mixture in the water. Trailered the boat and went home.

At home again:
I pulled the plugs to look and see if they are clean. They was wet and black except where you gap them at. I noticed I have a exhaust leak out of the gasket on the back exhaust manifold which is leaking exhaust with blackish water. Rectifier is running good so there shouldn't be any stator issues. Considering all plugs look the same it shouldn't be a coil or power pack issue.

My thoughts:
Since the engine is running better trimmed or tilted up it may be the floats sticking overloading the engine with fuel? But maybe the linkage between the 2 carbs are not correct? I just purchased 2 carb rebuild kits, exhaust manifold gaskets, and water pump rebuild kit (which I typically always do when I buy a old motor but was lazy on this one).

Any ideas or think I'm on the correct path?
 

CadoTx

Cadet
Joined
Oct 5, 2015
Messages
14
You are on the right track. I would replace all fuel filters, rebuild or replace fuel pump, new spark plugs, check spark plug wires and replace water pump impeller for good measure if you don't know when they were last replaced.
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
Check for spark on all 4 plugs once the engine has warmed up to normal operating temps. Your compression is solid! Probably worth your time and effort to get it going..
 

TimmyTim

Cadet
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
6
Status update...
I tore the carbs apart and they looked clean but replaced the needle, seat, floats, and gaskets. I did notice on my carbs it is missing the orface plugs at the bottom in the drain screws. Cleaning carbs and new parts made zero difference. Talked to a few local mechanics and they said the orface plugs came on some models and didn't on others, that I need to replace the fuel pump. So I replaced the fuel pump with new spark plugs and again no difference and thought it's time to check the timing.
Checking the timing in forward gear I noticed the spark advance was between TDC - 2 which my manual says should be between 4-6. Tried to adjust the spark advance but it wouldn't adjust. Then I noticed the spark advance lever was sticking and not staying with the throttle arm. Cleaned out the holder (was caked up with dirt) and now it moves freely with the throttle arm. Bingo!!! Now there is zero hesitation when revving the engine and the timing is at 5 degrees between the 4-6.
Replaced the exhaust manifold gasket and water pump. When replacing the manifold gasket I noticed there is some carbon buildup through the exhaust and the only place without carbon is at center of the piston but is a light 1/16" coat on the outter edges of the pistons. The water pump looked very old and out of formation. Replaced it and tons of water is going to the engine now. During rev the pee stream actually gets harder now.

Now my issues:
I have excellent spark to all my cylinders but it is hard to start, missing, and idling rough. Here is the things I've noticed:
1. Excessive water coming out of the exhaust ports
2. Engine head temperature is 91-93 degrees at idle and 100-102 at 1500-2000 RPMs
3. Rectifier diodes are shot. (Will charge but tach doesn't work when wired correctly)
4. Exhaust boot gaskets at lower foot is dry rotted.
5. Carbon buildup in exhaust and top of pistons.

I've gotten these parts ordered..
1. Thermostat replacement kit (some reason doesn't come with the pressure release valves)
2. Pressure release valves (back ordered will take 2 weeks)
3. Exhaust boot gaskets
4. Rectifier

Figure I would replace this stuff and try the seafoam carbon cleaner (with the 1 gallon gas method so I can pick up the liquid from advance)

Figure this may be a good 2nd starting place. Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks
 

TimmyTim

Cadet
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
6
Ohh yeah after fixing the spark advance, it burns cleaner with not as much wet oil left on the plugs and prop with less smoke.
 
Last edited:

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,087
Sounds like you are on the right path!! I am glad that the timing issue was so simple!! Id do just what you said you were going to do and let her fly!! And no wonder it was so hard to start. These motors are RIDICULOUSLY hard to start when cold without any timing advance!!
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
This engine (like all crossflows) has the main jets screwed into the carb bowl, just behind the bowl drain screws. On your engine, there are 4 main jets, and they are .054" in size, part number: 317646. The engine won't run without them in place. If you haven't yet, you can see the exploded factory parts diagram for your exact engine at this website: epc.brp.com. It shows the jets on the carb diagram. Your engine will normally idle between 143 AND 150 degrees in a warm lake. If you run the engine on a household hose, the water is cooler and will make your running powerhead temps lower. A normal thing. That engine is a bear to start if the choke plates don't activate when the key is pushed in-for the choke. Is yours functioning normally?
 
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