Evinrude Fastwin 18 restoration question(s)

ddwilson

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Apr 8, 2012
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116
Frank makes a tool that makes changing the o-rings easier (http://www.franksoutboardtools.com) I have done them with the dental tools but this thing helps.
I would make sure you check the coils if original probably cracked. Clean and adjust the points, clean out and rebuild the carb. Drop the lower unit and change the impeller they get set or bent and stay that way so do not pump well, can also get brittle and break up clogging the water lines, either way can over heat the motor in a hurry. Would probably change the oil in the lower unit and put new seals on the screws. From what I have seen with my 68 18hp they are real good running motors.
 

tim1217

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Oct 15, 2013
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Ah! A picture(s) is worth a thousand 'clarifications'. I'm waiting to hear back from Frank on the tool. Not sure I want to spend $ on a tool I may only use once in my lifetime.

So the hoses have to come off the connector in order to complete the procedure. That begs another question. Are those clamps special to this type of fitting? I've never seen those before. I assume screw-on or pressure type clamps would also work?...but not an aesthetically pleasing. Again, special clamps usually means a special tool to set them in place, etc. etc.

Tim
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Yes they are OEM clamps Not rocket science though.....just separate them with a standard screwdriver, and pull or cut the old hose off. Then tap the punch in from the back, through the hose barbs.

To put the clamps back on, simply put them on finger tight, then run a hose clamp over them, to tighten them back down equally. Then take hose clamp back off.
 

tim1217

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Oct 15, 2013
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Thanks! When I do restorations, I like to keep everything as original as possible.
 

tim1217

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Oct 15, 2013
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I am attempting to inspect (probably replace) the coils. Previous replies have said to "remove the inspection plate". I removed the cowling and here's what I see...

photo 2 (21).JPG

I searched the forum for 'inspection plate removal' without luck. I don't want to just start taking things apart without understanding what's going on underneath (I've seen that movie before and it doesn't have a happy ending). Hoping someone can provide some insight on what I need to do here to get at the coils.

Thanks,

Tim

PS: I don't have a very good manual for parts, etc. (the one I found covers all models of Evinrude from this era and it leaves a little bit to be desired in terms of information). Is there an electronic version on the forum somewhere of a good service manual...or manual of any kind??
 

AlTn

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Mar 9, 2010
Messages
2,813
marine engine dot com has the diagrams...ebay or Ken Cook would have a manual..OMC Factory Manual
 

oldboat1

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Messages
9,598
That inspection plate is easily removed by taking out the four short screws. With the plate removed, can look in to see the condition of the coils (look for cracked coatings in old coils). Can clean and adjust points from up there too. I hit the connections with elec cleaner, but not sure if there would be mixed opinion on that.

with the plate off, rotate the flywheel by hand 180 degrees to see both sides of the magneto (best to have the plug boots off to be absolutely safe).
 

HighTrim

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Jun 21, 2007
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You have to take that plate off anyways to install the harmonic puller to pull off the flywheel.

Thread the grade 8 puller bolts 7/16" into the flywheel when removing. If you have the OEM puller, it will have shoulder bolts so you don't need to worry about that.
 

AlTn

Commander
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additional...I've had access to a 1965 OMC Factory Manual for an 18 hp...don't expect much in the way of pics...it's for techs who already know what worn parts look like, how things go together and apart, how to adjust, etc...not any work arounds as the "fix" is replacement...it does have all the specs for clearances, torques, etc. with your experiences in restoring other outboards you may just need the diagrams
 

tim1217

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Oct 15, 2013
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23
You have to take that plate off anyways to install the harmonic puller to pull off the flywheel.

Thread the grade 8 puller bolts 7/16" into the flywheel when removing. If you have the OEM puller, it will have shoulder bolts so you don't need to worry about that.


Thanks HighTrim...I take it the bolts from the puller go into the same holes that hold that cover plate on, correct?

I don't have a harmonic balancer puller. Do you think this harmonic puller from Sears will work?

harmonic puller.jpeg
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-harm...47626000&kispla=00947626000P&kpid=00947626000


Tim
 

HighTrim

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Yup, even cheap one from Harbor Freight if you are in the US, or Princess Auto for us Canadians. Just use grade 8 bolts, 1/4-20, about 3" long or so. Mark with a sharpie 7/16" on the threads if it is not a shoulder bolt. Thread all bolts in equally to that point. Then start tightening the center bolt. She will really POP when it comes off, don't let it scare you the first time, you didn't break anything!

Were the coils shot? Did you take the plate off?
 

tim1217

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Oct 15, 2013
Messages
23
Yup, even cheap one from Harbor Freight if you are in the US, or Princess Auto for us Canadians. Just use grade 8 bolts, 1/4-20, about 3" long or so. Mark with a sharpie 7/16" on the threads if it is not a shoulder bolt. Thread all bolts in equally to that point. Then start tightening the center bolt. She will really POP when it comes off, don't let it scare you the first time, you didn't break anything!

Were the coils shot? Did you take the plate off?

Oh yes...quite toasty!

photo (20).JPG .
 

HighTrim

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Jun 21, 2007
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Well Ill tell ya something. I myself, I prefer to find the coils like that.

For one, it tells me no one has monkeyed with it.

Secondly, I know if the coils are still shot, no one has likely run it on 50:1. The powerheads are usually better on the motors with cracked coils, so there is a bright side to this.
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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9,598
yes. cracked coils and old mouse nests -- but without the old mouse pee.
 

tim1217

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Oct 15, 2013
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Slightly off topic...I am learning a lot in this process about how outboards operate. One aspect of this is the cooling system. I've read up a bit on it but have a question.

What is the purpose of the plate with the three holes in it that the arrow is pointing to in this picture? I removed it and see there is just an empty (I think) cavity behind it. Is it part of the cooling system?

(apologies to 64osby for using the pic...my phone is charging so I couldn't take a picture of my own motor)

image_116703.jpg
 

HighTrim

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The primary entrance for the water intake is that scoop behind the prop in forward gear, but that plate sucks in water when the motor is in reverse.
 

64osby

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Jul 28, 2009
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(apologies to 64osby for using the pic...my phone is charging so I couldn't take a picture of my own motor)

I feel violated. :eek: :lol:

All is good, great question and HT follows with a great answer. :)
 
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