Johnson Electramatic starter/bracket removal

klroth025

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Jun 2, 2007
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Johnson/Evinrude service manuals talk about removing 1 large bolt above and starboard side of the carb, and 3 bolts OR NUTS to remove the starter bracket. None mention the two smaller bolts in the lower support bracket... and that leads to my question. I removed the three nuts, but the bracket will not clear the studs that are screwed into the engine. The starter hits the case. How does the bracket come off in this situation? Do I remove the studs? If I need to remove the studs... how? Is there anything special I need to know when I put the studs back i.e. thread locker or sealant?
 

F_R

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Scratching my head, trying to remember. I remember that as being a tight squeeze, but I'm sure you do not have to remove the studs, and it WILL come off. Do you have the recoil starter off? I'm thinking that is the secret, but not sure. Needless to say, you do have to remove the two screws from the lower support bracket. And put some Permatex sealant on them when you put it back together. Good luck, and I'll try to find more info if you still can't get it off.
 

klroth025

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I had the recoil off, and the other bits that were in the way, but couldn't get enough clearance. I may not be able to get back to it for a couple of days, so I loosely reassembled things so I would not lose them. What I did notice is that you can torque the power head a few degrees inside the housing. This may give me enough clearance, but I will need a second set of hands to try this... Does this ring any bells for you F_R?
 

oldboat1

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Is this what yours looks like? (What model number do you have?)
omc_0380239_addl_2.jpg
 

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F_R

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I am thinking that possibly due to age and gravity working on the rubber mounts, the motor may be sitting lower in the outer shell. But as indicated earlier, under normal conditions, there should be enough clearance to get the starter off without any heroic measures.
 

klroth025

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oldboat1, yes my starter looks like that except it's still in the aluminum bracket. F_R, I understand what you're saying. I'm going to try 2 things today. #1 slightly torquing the power head inside the housing to get a bit more clearance and #2 placing the motor vertical and putting a floor jack under the skeg and putting some LIGHT pressure upward to counteract some of the age and gravity that you mentioned. I will give an update on my progress later today.
 

oldboat1

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thinking of a single engine stud, so must be confusing models. What is your engine model number?
 

racerone

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??????---Double nut the 3 studs and pull them out.----Must be easier that going to these other extremes !!!!!
 

klroth025

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oldboat1, the model is RKL 30D 1968 Johnson 40hp

Nothing extreme, racerone. A couple of pumps of the floor jack under the skeg and... problem solved! Easier than double-nutting 3 studs and trying to extract them, then having to reinstall them.

I've attached a couple of pictures. I set the camera on the corner of the boat and took these two pictures from the same exact position and zoom level. you can see how much higher the power head is sitting by looking at the rivet head on the starter in relation to the case.

Thanks again for the great advice F_R!
 

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oldboat1

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Thanks, kl. Had a sister motor to yours a few years ago ('70 model, I think) -- not sure, but might be able to drop the lower motor cover (front) while powerhead remains bolted up to the exhaust housing assembly. Maybe enough for clearance anyway. But even if that can be done, your use of the floor jack would probably be easier than that too. Good stuff.
 

klroth025

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I think it is extreme and with a risk of breaking something !!!

I do see your point Admiral, and I do appreciate your advice, as well as everyone else's. My first reaction was "I need to take these studs out". My concern became for (A) breaking the studs, then (B) stripping the threads in the power head.

All's well that ends well. On to rebuilding the carb and getting out there to catch some Perch.
 
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