1964 johnson 9.5 MQ-10R cam follower?

[nabiul]

So I can work on it inside without worrying about the weather or remaining daylight. Took the circlip off and unscrewed the magplate, packed up everything and put the cover back on the motor

The condensers appear to not be storing any charge at all, can they be replaced by regular capacitors or are there any advantages to replacing the whole deal with electronic modules?

The points appear to be good, showing 0 resistance.

 

[HighTrim]

Yes you can simply replace them with a capacitor. Wrap one lead around the ground screw, and the other to the points. OR, gut the old condenser can, and install it inside there to make it look original.

Be careful which capacitor you get, too small a rating and it will fail. If F_R comes along he will know for certain, but Im thinking it was 400V?

I have used Atom modules, works well, and have tried the Nova Modules as well. The Novas don't seem to hold up. Not sure if you can get the Atom modules anymore. If you are much smarter than I am, you could make your own, but that is above my skill level.

 

[nabiul]

What was the original capacitance of the condenser? The part number is 580422.

I picked up six 0.1uF 630V bipolar film capacitors, 3 of them in parallel should do the trick?

 

[nabiul]

My home made condensers, I couldn't fit three so it's going to be 0.22uF. Fingers crossed they work tomorrow.

http://i.imgur.com/raiUCmh.jpg

 

[HighTrim]

3 would have been too much, .18 to .22 uf is good.

 

[nabiul]

Maybe I need to repeat the test in the dark, but the bottom plug can now jump 1/4" half the time and the top plug wont do it at all. Both seems to jump 1/8 reliably which is a step up from the 1/6th before. The condensers were reading 4k ohms on the secondary, what should they be reading?

 

[nabiul]

Results are much better in the dark; it looks like both sparks are just barely making the 1/4" gap, but it's really hit and miss, I have to pull hard on the starter handle.

 

[HighTrim]

Polish and clean the points. Even if new.

 

[nabiul]

It turns out I wasn't pulling the motor hard enough during the compression test, with the help of a fishing buddy we read 70psi both cylinders. We cleaned up the points and set them to just break contact when the timing marks were between the lines. We also got some real condensers in there, but it was still extremely hard starting.

We took it to an AOMCI member who got it running after 10 minutes of hard pulling, it still wasn't running smooth although it sounded like it was reaching higher rpm's. He suggested that the carb might be clogged up somewhere even though it looked clean inside and gave us some sea foam to try. We mixed it with the fuel and went on the water today, still hard starting but man when it got going what a difference it made! It was like the motor came back to life and we were moving twice as fast as last time; our wake became much smaller and we were actually able to plane. At 15km/h it was nothing spectacular, but more than enough speed to swamp the boat since we didn't know what we were doing yet.

The real test will be if it's still hard starting on the next run.

 

[nabiul]

I just learned what could have been a very hard lesson. Never run one of these old motors without first doing a FULL tear down and rebuild. Regardless of what people might tell you that if the power head etc are working fine then to leave it alone; do not leave it alone!!!!

We took the motor out today, it was still hard starting but seemed to be easier than before. We weren't moving fast enough so we dropped it to the lowest trim and when we restarted the boat was flying (from our perspective) at 25km/h. We eventually made it out about 15km from the launch point while staying relatively close to the shore and started heading back as we were losing daylight fast. Half of the way back my friends hat suddenly got blown off and we slowed down to try and find it, but when we went to head back something was wrong. The motor couldn't get us back up onto a plane again, and after about a minute of running it started making loud exhaust noises and died just as the sun dipped below the horizon.

The motor had clearly had it and nothing we did was going to get it going again. luckily we were only a 100 metres or so from a well inhabited island as rowing with the one oar we had on board wasn't doing squat against the current; eventually some one spotted us and came over to give us a tow after exchanging sos signals. We had to beach the boat on his property and take a ferry back to the mainland.

It wasn't too long ago that this area had no cellular service (no way to call for help) and we could have been much further out if the motor died at the wrong time = spending a night on our slowly leaking dinghy.

 

[HighTrim]

Well, Im sorry about what happened, but I have to disagree with your belief in the above post.

So what is wrong, do you even know yet?

I have hundreds of this vintage motor. While some did a full rebuild on, I have a TON running on the original powerhead. As do thousands upon thousands of others across the continent.

Sometimes many major issues can be rectified beforehand if you know what to look for. Sometimes, as they say in the boating world, poop happens.

Boy, did you ever go for a haul in a 9.5 lol!

 

[S.A. Baker]

Gap your points to .020 on the high point of the cam. You don't adjust timing by changing the point gap. You MUST have a .020 point gap...and spotlessly clean points. Does it even pump water? Or is it now hopelessly fried?

 

[nabiul]

I meant check/clean/ do maintenance on every component. The boat is still beached at the guys house as it was the last ferry of the day, we have to make a trip back to the lake to get it. Who knows what happened, from the loud noises it made maybe the points slipped and messed up the timing, maybe there was a head gasket leak and it compressed water, maybe the cork float disintegrated and flooded the engine, there was some funny white foam around the carb; I will do a full tear down when I get it back.

 

[nabiul]

The flywheel key had sheared and we opened up the head to take a look and a little bit of brown water and oil came out of the ports, couldn't tell if it was from the carb housing or the crank case, the head gasket was also wet. A small water leak could explain the hard starting issues? Is it ok to use RTV to fix up the head gasket? I can make the rest of the regular rubber fiber ones.

 

[HighTrim]

Dress the head step 1. Put a piece of emory on plate glass, marble, something perfectly straight. Do figure 8s with the head on the paper. Keep going until it is sanding evenly. You will be able to tell. Usually last spot is between the cylinders.

Then install new gasket. Torque to spec, first 1/2 the torque, then 3/4 the torque, then final torque. Do this in a spiral pattern, starting in center bolt and working outwards.

After a couple runs, re torque.

The key sheared either because you used a hardware store key (don't do that if you did), or because the tapers were not clean and dry.

 

[nabiul]

We ground a new key out of HSS tool stock, anything wrong with using this? Also are evinrude 9.5 parts interchangeable with the johnson? Some one locally is selling a spare parts for an evinrude.

Now that I have this motor apart it's in such bad shape. Some jackass lost the screws for the front engine mount and decided to wedge a piece of wood against the side of the outer casing; this obviously cracked the casing along a flashing line left over from casting, but wasn't visible at all from the outside. The cylinders have spots of surface rust and straight scratches deep enough to feel with your finger, there's water leaking into the gear oil and copious amounts of grease were jammed into everything in the hope that with luck some will eventually make it into the working parts.