1975 85 hp Johnson Carb Float Adjustment

[jiju1943]

I tried to do a search and it just don't want to cooperate. I am rebuilding the carbs on my 1975 85 hp Johnson. I know I am supposed to hold the carb upside down and make the float level with the body. My question is: is the bottom of the float supposed to be flush with the rim of the body, or does it matter that the float is sitting level, but down about a good heavy 1/8th inch?

 

[emdsapmgr]

My factory manual says: When the carb is upside down, the float surface should be parallel to the gasketed surface of the upper carb body. Hold the carb up to eye level. Is the float bottom parallel to the carb gasketed surface?

 

[jiju1943]

My factory manual says: When the carb is upside down, the float surface should be parallel to the gasketed surface of the upper carb body. Hold the carb up to eye level. Is the float bottom parallel to the carb gasketed surface?

emdsapgr, I really do appreciate you responding to my question, I am sure you have responded to this question this several times.

That is what I was wondering, If the tang is bent to allow the bottom of the float to be flush and horizontal with the rim of the body, the tang will be bent in a pretty good "S" or "Z" shape. I will give that a try, thanks again.

Jim

 

[jdaghir]

According to long time forum contributor Joe Reeves the adjustment procedure is:

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

Which is pretty much exactly what emdsapmgr recommended.

 

[Vic.S]

emdsapgr, I really do appreciate you responding to my question, I am sure you have responded to this question this several times.

That is what I was wondering, If the tang is bent to allow the bottom of the float to be flush and horizontal with the rim of the body, the tang will be bent in a pretty good "S" or "Z" shape. I will give that a try, thanks again.

Jim

Parallel with the joint face, I think you will find, not flush!

I am sure you should not be bending the float arm into an S shape!

 

[jiju1943]

Thanks fellows, I appreciate your help, I will let you know how it goes.

Jim

 

[jiju1943]

After putting the carbs back on today, when it fired up the motor ran really wild, I could not slow it down at all. I am sure it is the way I built the carbs. Against my better judgement and against what Vic said, I did bend the arm so the bottom of the float was even with the rim of the carb. I will go back and rework the carbs and redo the floats to look like they did in both of these carbs and the other two I have. They were level with the rim but the bottom of the float sits a good heavy 1/8 inch below the rim. That is the way I will put them back.

Thanks again for your help, I will let you know how it runs after I redo the carbs.

 

[interalian]

For the record, when adjusting the float level, the only part of the float arm you bend is the small middle part that attaches to the needle valve/spring keeper. And when bending it, you do not want to be pressing the needle valve against the seat for fear of damaging the rubbery Viton tip (or whatever material they use now to fight the Ethanol). I always use fine needle-nose pliers and reach in with the needle well off the seat.

 

[jiju1943]

Thanks interalian, that is the way I bent the flange, I was very careful to keep pressure off the needle.

I am going to pull the carbs again today and readjust the floats the way they looked before rebuilding the carbs. I guess I just read wrong the way it was explained how to adjust the float. If this don't work, I will park the boat, three months of this is enough for this ole man. I have spent every day except for Sundays and a couple weeks on this boat. It just isn't worth any more time, we can just bank fish. Thanks again.

Jim