Outboard Motor Swap

bdmtri57

Cadet
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
8
Hello All, fairly Newbie boater here. I have a 1963 Mongomery Wards Sea King Runabout with a 40 hp (gale) same year. I've been working on getting it to run properly but have run into issues that will take more time than I'd like to straighten it out. I have available to buy a 1962 75 hp evinrude starflite iv not sure of model number or a 1964 60 hp evinrude ( 60452 S). What I'd like to know is if the wiring and the controls for the Gale and Evinrude are similar? and what problems might I run into on doing this swap. I do understand the longshaft - shortshaft scenario, mounting wouldn't be my biggest concern. Both motors are manual shift, all connectors look the same if not similar to what I have now. Another reason I'm asking this is because one of the motors, the 75 hp, has all the wiring but no controls, the 60 hp has both, I am not certain which motor I will be purchasing , but would like as much info on the matter as possible. Thanks myseaking2015-08-15_10.21.13.jpg 75hpblacknwhiteevinrude.jpg 1964evinrudeforsale.jpg
 

82rude

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
4,082
gale was a division of omc.I believe the controls would be compatible but not to 100 percent positive.That 75 would sure look nice on your boat.
 

bdmtri57

Cadet
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
8
Thanks! 82rude, I'll be going to look at the 75 in couple hours, hopefully its all I need it to be
 

lindy46

Captain
Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
3,886
The throttle/shift cables will be the same. The electrical will most likely be different, especially if the 75hp has a generator. But it looks like the wiring comes with the motor. Make sure seller includes the solenoid box - that will have the regulator you need if the motor has a generator.
 

interalian

Commander
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
2,105
Love the cosmetics on those old cases. Do you think 75 horses will be too much for the boat?
 

bdmtri57

Cadet
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
8
No, I do believe that the boat is rated for somewhere around an 80 hp. I actually got to see the 75, pretty sad shape, not all the controls were there, but now worries I went to see the 60 hp one and it was Awesome! Like someone used it for a while then parked it in the basement or something. Super Clean. I now own it! Installed it on the boat for checks and hot test,( reportedly sitting for a few years, not knowing if it was in perfect running condition) , turns over great, smelled of varnish (old gas), would not fire even with either, but, I did not replace the plugs which I will do today. Checked the points and condenser,points gaped at .020" looked brand new, but did not ohm test, timing right on. Seen many threads about shorted rotor's, bad dist caps, bad coils. I'd like to eliminate one by one which might be the culprit before I spend a few hundred bucks on electrical parts.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
Make sure those new-looking points actually are making zero-resistance contact when closed. They may have an invisible coating of non-conductive oxidation on the contact faces. Rig up a spark gap off the button on the coil, and check for spark there. That eliminates the rotor and cap as possible problems. Once you have established spark at the coil, then install rotor and cap and check spark at plug wires.
 

bdmtri57

Cadet
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
8
F_R, you were right, have had nothing but trouble with my purchase. Bad points, no water up to the powerhead, thermostat, carb issues, another magneto, sync issues. I put in a new impeller, and the rest of the lower unit appeared to be in good shape, did not vac or pressure test, but drained lower unit and nothing but oil came out, clean. Got no spark at all with all the tests I did on it, bought another used one online guaranteed to have spark. Motor ran but only on 1 and 3, spark test revealed that I had spark but no or absent fuel. Removed carb, disassembled to inspect, fairly clean, needle and seat ok, gaskets intact, float set perfect. Blew out all bleeds and did a factory initial setting bolted back on. Seamed to run a little better but still not carboning up like 1 and 3. Also, 1 and 3 running very Hot!, thermostat housing off, hot water tested therm and it was ok. Droped lower unit, shot pressurized water thru inlet, appeared to clear and ok. Re-assembled all, still got hot 1 and 3, 2 and 4 a little hotter but not equal, motor running fat now. Water pressure checked the pump, removed plugs, grounded wires, remove top of therm housing and cranked motor. Water coming out , just not much, more like spitting it out. Doesn't seem to be throwing it up the tube or may be blockage I'm not aware of.

I'm pretty much at wits end with this motor. I let it consume me, trying to do things I'm not as talented to execute. I'm sure, with time ( I don't really have) I can figure this out, for now I have to give the brain a rest. Frustration makes you do funny things, most of them not right. I Appreciate your info.

And to interalian, I'll post some pics when I get things clean up, right now it looks like my tool box exploded on the driveway and my boat
 
Last edited:

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,607
Sea King with 'bosun controls on a matching rig is pretty desirable. Be curious what issues -- E/J parts pretty easily available for the 40s. IMO, the weight of the Evinrudes would likely defeat the hp increase on that hull. Maybe revisit the Sea King?
 

bdmtri57

Cadet
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
8
Yea, maybe so, I believe that weight difference is about 100 pounds or so, I've seen alot of glastron's and other starcraft 15 , 16, foot fiberglass boats others have had set up, they were pretty pleased with the results. Thats the only reason I agreed with my self to try this next step up. I was thinking maybe have some real Pro's take a stab at my stuff, a place near me Lockemans Hardware, I hear are Top Notch in the area, not sure what they'd charge to take a look at my motor(s). But thats probably more cash than I can spend right now, or want to spend depending.

The 40 hp gale, well, I put alot of time in it also. Coils, points and condensers, semi-carb rebuild and complete cleaning, spark plugs, cables,rebuilt gearcase. In test tub all seamed well, on the water it seamed to die out, wouldn't rev up. When it did it took a long time while on wot. I started to see carbonish oil deposite coming from where power head meets lower case, thinking maybe the seal or gasket there was bad, but don't know at this time. Thats when I decided to try something a little different. From my Gale manual, I tried and tried to tune and sync to the best of my knowledge but only just short of not having enough experience to get it just right
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,607
sounds to me like you are pretty close on the 40. suspect rich running -- might check torque on powerhead bolts, but probably best to concentrate on getting it running, then run it out some to clean it up. Think I would take another shot at the carb, removing, disassembling and soaking. Carb kit, and R&R expansion plug for cleaning. Open up and clean (soak, compressed air) the h.s. jet, then clean and adjust the auto choke -- make sure the choke solenoid is working right, if has one. Choke may be partly closed, causing rich running. Really is a nice motor, with good power. Check factory specs for oil ratio, and run with that ratio.

JMO.
 
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