Very Stuck Flywheel

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May 11, 2015
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Finally got the flywheel off. I cranked it down really good on Saturday morning and got back from camp Sunday. Got back and cranked the puller a few more times. Then took a block of wood and gave some light tabs on the underside of the flywheel. Popped loose. It had been under pressure for a few days and I had been putting pb blaster down the shaft everyday since the start almost a week ago.

Next question is, how many lbs of pressure do i add when reinstalling the top nut?
 

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gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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Finally got the flywheel off. I cranked it down really good on Saturday morning and got back from camp Sunday. Got back and cranked the puller a few more times. Then took a block of wood and gave some light tabs on the underside of the flywheel. Popped loose. It had been under pressure for a few days and I had been putting pb blaster down the shaft everyday since the start almost a week ago.

Next question is, how many lbs of pressure do i add when reinstalling the top nut?

Okay success... ::applause:

One thing you serious need to know now, make absolutely sure that both the flywheel AND the tapered shaft on the crankshaft are totally clean without any dirt, oils or anything on them before reinstalling the flywheel back on. That is really important. No oils, grease or anything on those surfaces. And as far as the torque for your engine, my '76 Johnson 40HP calls for 100-105 ft/lbs. So I'm not sure what yours should be, but I'm guessing something pretty similar. But others that know will chime in with the proper torque...

Actually I tried to see what the torque figures are for your engine and two threads on these forums specify 40-45 ft/lbs. So I would still try to verify that before installation... JMHO!
 
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May 11, 2015
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Trying to replace the spark plug wires at the moment along with the rest of the ignition system. seems like the plug wires are clamped to the bottom side of the plate all of the ignition components are mounted to. Seems the only way to get them loose is a screw thats on the bottom of that plate. Is there any way to get the plug wires unclamped without taking that plate off?
 

lindy46

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Nov 27, 2008
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No - the plate is easy to remove. Two bolts through the coils and two shorter bolts hold it on. Take the bolts out and the plate lifts right off.
 
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May 11, 2015
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I got all of the new plug wires installed along with the new points, condensers, and coils along with completing the timing. The entire motor is back together other than the cosmetic covers. I am going to try and fire it up tomorrow after work.

Does anyone know what the carburetor settings should be when trying to first start the motor?
 

lindy46

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Nov 27, 2008
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I got all of the new plug wires installed along with the new points, condensers, and coils along with completing the timing. The entire motor is back together other than the cosmetic covers. I am going to try and fire it up tomorrow after work.

Does anyone know what the carburetor settings should be when trying to first start the motor?

Try slow speed open 1.5 turns and high speed 3/4 turn. That's a good starting point.
 
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May 11, 2015
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Alright well I tried starting it and I get absolutely nothing. Where do I start. I've replaced just about everything at this point
 

racerone

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Do you have spark that will jump a gap of 1/4" or better ?----Have you tried switching plug wires ??
 

HighTrim

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As stated, before you torque down the flywheel, always test for spark first.

Not holding the plug to the block, that tells you diddly. Get an inline tester, and set it to 1/4" It should jump that with a bright, blue ZAP!!

Did you thread the plug wires into coil? Good continuity from coil to plug ?

Did you polish and clean the points after installing them>? Even new ones I polish and clean. Dip a business card, or paper stock in acetone, run that through, then blow off with compressed air. Even fingerprints limit spark.

how did you set your points?

Torque flywheel to 40 ft lbs after you establish spark.
 
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I am going to start with buying an inline spark tester. I did thread my coils into the plug wires. Basically screwed them on. I am going to open it back up and polish the points, and I have been torqueing to 40lbs. I set my points using a multimeter and a timing fixture.

Can someone confirm which coil should be correlated to which cylinder? I replaced them one at a time so they should be attached correctly but I would like to double check them.
 

gm280

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I am going to start with buying an inline spark tester. I did thread my coils into the plug wires. Basically screwed them on. I am going to open it back up and polish the points, and I have been torqueing to 40lbs. I set my points using a multimeter and a timing fixture.

Can someone confirm which coil should be correlated to which cylinder? I replaced them one at a time so they should be attached correctly but I would like to double check them.

Tired, if you even want to verify which coil fires which cylinder, simply see which piston is at TDC when the points for that coil open. That will be the correct spark coil... JMHO!
 
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Tired, if you even want to verify which coil fires which cylinder, simply see which piston is at TDC when the points for that coil open. That will be the correct spark coil... JMHO!

Does it matter which coil sits in which position on the mag plate? Or as long as the coils are connected to the correct cylinder everything is good?
 
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