Need help regulator testing.

[Holdemhook]

Hi I am currently haveing trouble keeping my 96 evinrude 115 v4 outboard running. It just keeps cutting out already rebuilt carbs set floats correctly installed all new fuel lines and vro pump and even tested on test gas tank. It seems to just fire up run a bit and cut out occasionally shaking a bit. I have the regulator out and am attempting to test it via an electrical meter and am on the right track but not sure if the results I'm getting and want to be sure this is a defective part prior to ordering, here's what I've tested and the results so far. Let me know if I'm bench testing this guy correctly and what you guys think thanks in advance.

Meter set to ohms:

Red meter lead to red wire
Black meter lead to yellow: 20 ohms
Black meter lead to yellow blue stripe: 20ohm
Black meter lead to grey: 32 ohms
Black meter lead to purple: 19.7 ohms

Black lead to red wire
Red lead to yellow wire: 0.596 ohms
Red lead to yellow blue wire: 0.580 ohms
Red lead to grey wire: 1.092 ohms
Red lead to purple: 0.604 ohms

Meter set to diode test:

Red lead to red wire
Black lead to yellow wire: 0
Black lead to yellow blue : 0
Black lead to grey: 0
Black lead to purple:0

Black lead to red wire:

Red lead to yellow: 0.465
Red lead to yellow blue wire: 0.454
Red lead to grey wire: 1.335
Red lead to purple: 1.195.

 

[Holdemhook]

Also the tachometer does seem to work correctly. And I disconnected the regulator while on the engine and cranked it to see what would happened. No difference even with it not hooked up engine still cranked and died.

 

[Will Bark]

The regulator is for charging and has nothing to do with ignition system you need to check compression and use a spark tester to see if you have spark on all cylinders. Use a timing light when it start acting up to see if you still have spark on all cylinders. Good luck

 

[Holdemhook]

Hi thanks for responding, the compression tested out good with all cylinders, I was told by someone that the regulator could be causing the stalls, i do have spark on all 4 cylinders but I will get a timing light to do a better test (although timing sounds complicated) . It acts up all the time :/. Sounds like I should be looking more into the power packs? Should I try and ohm them out or? Thanks again.

 

[Vic.S]

Hi I am currently haveing trouble keeping my 96 evinrude 115 v4 outboard running. It just keeps cutting out already rebuilt carbs set floats correctly installed all new fuel lines and vro pump and even tested on test gas tank. It seems to just fire up run a bit and cut out occasionally shaking a bit. I have the regulator out and am attempting to test it via an electrical meter and am on the right track but not sure if the results I'm getting and want to be sure this is a defective part prior to ordering, here's what I've tested and the results so far. Let me know if I'm bench testing this guy correctly and what you guys think thanks in advance.

.

I think the results of your tests may indicate that the rectifier regulator is defective but the results with the meter on "diode test" do not seem to agree with the results with it on "ohms" but I may be misunderstanding what you report. Also you have not done any measurements between any wires and the case ( the DC negative connection)

See the trouble shooting guide on the CDI Electronics website, carry out the tests as described there. http://www.cdielectronics.com/support/

As for your engine bad running do proper spark tests. You should get sparks which will jump about 7/16"

The CDi electronics troubleshooting guide also tells you how to test the ignition system in detail. You will need a DVA adapter for your meter but Google will find you the circuit to make one yourself.

I am not convinced that you do not have a fuel system/ carb problem

 

[F_R]

I do not know where the trouble is, but I do think that when suspecting the regulator you are barking up the wrong tree.

 

[Vic.S]

I do not know where the trouble is, but I do think that when suspecting the regulator you are barking up the wrong tree.

Absolutely and post #2 pretty much proves that the engine malfunctioning is not due to a defective regulator.

 

[Holdemhook]

I think the results of your tests may indicate that the rectifier regulator is defective but the results with the meter on "diode test" do not seem to agree with the results with it on "ohms" but I may be misunderstanding what you report. Also you have not done any measurements between any wires and the case ( the DC negative connection)

See the trouble shooting guide on the CDI Electronics website, carry out the tests as described there. http://www.cdielectronics.com/support/

As for your engine bad running do proper spark tests. You should get sparks which will jump about 7/16"

The CDi electronics troubleshooting guide also tells you how to test the ignition system in detail. You will need a DVA adapter for your meter but Google will find you the circuit to make one yourself.

I am not convinced that you do not have a fuel system/ carb problem

Thanks for the response.,, as for the fuel I originally thought the problem was there as well as this is an older boat and new to me I started there: I have new gas , new hoses, new vro fuel pump rebuilt carbs, new primer bulb, Several new hose clamps , tested on new portable tank , I'm pretty confident it's not the fuel system. So I moved on to the electrical components. I did test each wire of the regulator to the case but forgot to log the data , I can retest if that will help? If this also defective I'd rather know before my battery dies on the lake lol.

 

[gm280]

I didn't read anywhere where you tested the fuel pump. So remove the fuel line that goes from the fuel pump to the carb and crank the engine over and see if there is a good stream of fuel coming though. Also, you stated that the spark and compression were good. What is good? Post the compression values here. And buy a spark tester and verify it will jump a 7/16" gap with a bright blue spark. If all the cylinders do that, you have good spark... Post back here with those tests results...

This is a spark tester and you can easily buy one at most any auto parts store cheap...

 

[Holdemhook]

I didn't read anywhere where you tested the fuel pump. So remove the fuel line that goes from the fuel pump to the carb and crank the engine over and see if there is a good stream of fuel coming though. Also, you stated that the spark and compression were good. What is good? Post the compression values here. And buy a spark tester and verify it will jump a 7/16" gap with a bright blue spark. If all the cylinders do that, you have good spark... Post back here with those tests results...

This is a spark tester and you can easily buy one at most any auto parts store cheap...

The compression readings were 120, 120, 120, 110. Yes there fuel pump is good it's the vro I had recently replaced it as the oil side was defective. I will perform the spark testing and double check the fuel stream shortly. Thank you.

 

[Holdemhook]

Ok I bought a spark plug tester from the auto store ($13) it is similar to the one in the pic but not the same. All 4 cylinders defiantly have spark not sure about the 7/16" the spark just shoots around in the end of the tester like lighting bolts. The color isn't bright blue more of a white I waited until dark so I could see better. All 4 were the same.