1959 35 hp evinrude lark stuck driveshaft

[Johnson110]

Ok sort of at a cross road here, engine needs crankshaft and drive shaft and water pump, maybe get a used powerhead off of ebay or continue to to gets parts for this engine?

 

[HighTrim]

I assume you tore a hole in the impeller housing when the impeller key tore through it as it was stuck in the powerhead? Post pics of it, you may be ok. There is a seal on top of the housing anyways. Definitely put in new impeller. What is the length of your drive shaft. I have boxes of shafts, and have to admit, they are not all labelled.

 

[Johnson110]

Thanks, I will post some photos when my son gets back on sunday, pretty sure that the drive short had motor mounted on back of old 1968 mckee craft and cavitation plate level with bottom on boat, How often does this happen with shaft frozen, I have had many used outboard growing up and never encounter this situation. Really appreciate all you help!

 

[HighTrim]

Not often, but it does happen. YOu got unlucky!

Happens when a dumb @$$ of a previous owner decides to NOT run out and buy a new o ring for the top of the drive shaft when he installs his lower unit. And does not grease splines before installing.

Not the motors fault, it is human fault.

 

[Johnson110]

Ok Finally got the driveshaft out of the crankshaft, put the crank in a vise started to move a bit, and finally came out, I am getting a crankshaft off ebay, the splines are good the shaft has a lot of " Marring" on it, just tried to put in back in lower unit but does not want to drop in?

 

[HighTrim]

I assume you took the impeller housing and such off now?

{Put a drop of oil on the end, to aid in not damaging the drive shaft seal. Slide it in past the seal, until it hits the pinion. Rotate and it should drop into pinion.

Then pus stainless impeller housing plate back on. Seal it down to the casting with thin bead of 3m 847. Put in impeller key in shaft. Drop impeller onto the key. Now is a good time to replace impeller. Put a little grease or dish soap on the blades of the impeller. Drop housing onto impeller, push down while rotating shaft clockwise. Put OMC gasket sealing compound on threads of impeller housing bolts before installing.

regrease the splines of the drive shaft, and install new o ring. Dont get grease on the TOP of the shaft, just the splines. Add grease to the impeller housing grommet (ensure it is in good condition, not stretched or swollen). Also add grease to the end of the water line sticking out of the bottom of the motor.

Now it is ready to bolt back up to the motor.

 

[Johnson110]

It will only go in a little bit I did what you said with the oil can I tap the shaft back in, looking in the oil there are no obstructions, and this is just the driveshaft, the water pump housing in n/g , just want to get shaft back in, Thanks again!

 

[Johnson110]

Wait, " driveshaft seal" there is a groove on the bottom on the shaft with nothing on it , the shaft came out with the powerhead when it came out damaging the waterpump housing!

 

[HighTrim]

Drain the oil first sorry forgot you had oil in there. That will let you slide shaft in easier.

 

[HighTrim]

The groove on the TOP of the shaft is where there should be an o ring.

 

[Johnson110]

Yes and there was a o ring on the top of the shaft, ok i will drain out oil, the shaft got marred up can I take emery cloth and clean it up?

 

[HighTrim]

Really the only spots that matter are where the seal touches it, other than the splines of course. If there are mars from where the impeller housing is up to the drive shaft splines, they are irrelevant really. But yeah, emory wont hurt it.

 

[Johnson110]

Can I use 120 grit to clean crankshaft journals, they are not scored but have a light brown color on them, I brought 120 grit in home depot that all they had!

 

[Johnson110]

Ok , Found the right cloth, cleaned the connecting rod journals, clean up nice installed the crankshaft in short 1 connecting rod needle bearing, also had to change the bottom bearing with the original one the o ring did not line up!

 

[Johnson110]

After reading up on installing crankshaft, I cannot seem to get the all three main bearings to seat in block pin, This crankshaft got off ebay, does anyone have a diagram of how the top and bottom should be on the shaft, also the o ring don not line up, when you try to get the bearing in the block pin.

 

[Johnson110]

The cylinder head screws torque is 220 to 240 inch lbs

For the 6 large crank halve bolts the torque is as follows:

Top 150 to 170 inch lbs
Center 162 to 168 inch lbs
Bottom 150 to 170 inch lbs

For the rod caps on the 59 Lark:

If they are 1/4-28 use 180 to 186 inch lbs
If they are 9/32-28 use 216 to 222 inch lbs
If they are 5/16-24 use 348 to 372 inch lbs

Going to torque the connecting rod caps, the caps are 3/16 allen key, what would the torque be for this?

 

[Johnson110]

Figured it out 1/4 screws call for 180-186 inch lb as posted!

 

[Willyclay]

When member High Trim posts, I pay attention. Good luck!

 

[HighTrim]

Ok here is a '57 35hp Block Im rebuilding, but same idea.

Take the bottom carbon seal off, well, at least take off the circlip, and spring, and pull back the carbon seal. It makes aligning the crank with the pins much easier.

 

[HighTrim]

You are not trying to put the o ring in the groove are you? It does not go there, see pic.