1959 35 hp evinrude lark stuck driveshaft

Johnson110

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Ok I have this powerhead with a stuck drive shaft in the crankshaft, I have it soaking with pb blaster 50/50 atf acetone, have had it hanging upside down by chain, it will not come apart, ready to cut the shaft and try drilling it out, any other suggestions.
 

HighTrim

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I would first get the lower crank seal out of the way if you have not already done so. Don't worry about wrecking it, it is apparently already shot if water has rusted the splines!

Then I would hang it upside down. A couple inches off the ground, with a pillow or something to break the fall if it comes out.

Heat the shaft just where it sticks out. Spray in penetrating oil. Cool. Then heat again, spray in penetrating oil, then either use a puller on the shaft, or perhaps tap on the block around the shaft with a rubber mallet.

I don't think I would try cutting it out. Might never get it, and waste a whole lotta time. If it absolutely will not come out. Open up the block and take the crank out. Might want to inspect anyways to see if the water made it into the powerhead.
 

Johnson110

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Lower crank seal, that can come out with drive shaft in it? I have it upside down had it hanging from chain, used small amount on head on it, but will do as you say. Just how does the crank seal come out, and thank you for your input !
 

racerone

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??????-----I thought you had this motor all apart.--------The crankshaft seal would simply slide off and over the driveshaft.
 

Johnson110

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I started to tear it down but stopped, thought of trying the heating drive shaft as last resort, I have a standard propane torch to heat up shaft, I did not want to damage anything with the heat.
 

racerone

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????-----So why did you stop taking it apart ????------The cranksaft seal should still slide off easily.
 

HighTrim

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You have to remove the snap locking ring. Then the retaining washers and spring will slide off. Then slide off carbon seal assembly with o ring.

This will now allow you to better get penetrating oil into the splines.
 

Johnson110

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Thank you, I will try that I really do not want to tear the engine down being it is so old, I just purchased it and figured it is a gamble, many years ago i had a 40 hp evinrude Manuel everything worked perfect, this engine is basically the same engine that is why I brought it, when I got it running and it ran good just was not pumping water so i decided to pull the lower unit and change out pump, now all this never had this problem and I had have many outboards in the past, this one really got me down!
 

racerone

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Are you sure this changes the way / makes it easier to get penetrating oil into the splines ?-------I thought splines were sealed by the 0-ring on the end of the shaft.----Which may or may not be in place !
 

Johnson110

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I got the bottom seal out, the washer that the end of the driveshaft goes into broke off, the snap ring and the spring i had to dig it out with a screwdriver, something look very wrong with this set up the " silver washer" that i had to pry off looked like it had weld marks on the top on it, not clean looking a clean looking washer that it should look like'
 

Johnson110

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Ok so I am separating the engine block to remove crankshaft got all bolts that go around the block, have two screws on bronze top plate soaking in pb blaster, after I get this screws out will the block separate i even removed the drift pins!
 

Johnson110

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Got the last two screws off the top bronze plate, what other bolts need to come out to separate the crankcase?
 

racerone

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All the bolts need to come out===Perhaps look for some " hidden " ones behind the reed valves.
 

HighTrim

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The pins need to be punched out as well to seperate. When putting back together, they align everything before torqueing any of the bolts.

There are all the 7/16" bolts, then the 6 main crank halve bolts. The center main bolts you need to get at from the inside of the intake manifold, so that needs to come off first. They will be allen bolts.
 

Johnson110

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Got it out that meaning I now have a crankshaft with a drive shaft attached, High trim do you have a crankshaft and driveshaft for this motor? Thanks for the help!
 

HighTrim

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Oh Im sure I do but would have to check to make sure. I don't have NOS cranks though, but good used ones. How does the rest of the motor inside look? Bearings, pistons, etc...
 

Johnson110

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Looks good inside I did not take pistons out, the needle bearings feel in side the pistons but I got them out with my pencil magnet, ok when you get a chance let me know what you have. Thanks, Cliff
 

HighTrim

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If there is no evidence of rust anywhere that is good. Check all the needles for nicks, cuts, damage, etc...

To reinstall, I use Assembly Grease, but Vaseline will do the job if that is what you have on hand to hold them in place while you assemble.

Be sure to follow the torque values! If you need this info let me know.

Don't mix up the rod caps, they are matched to that rod. Don't mess up the way they came off the rod, they are machined as a solid then cracked, so they must go back on the same way. Best to mark with a sharpie BEFORE you take them off. When re installing them, rock them slowly as you tighten rod cap screws, to ensure they match up as they should. Then run a pencil across mating surface to ensure there is not edge. Then torque to spec.

Use 3M 847 to reassemble the crank halves. Clean well with acetone first and ensure is clean. Use new spaghetti seal.

Any questions let us know.
 

HighTrim

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The cylinder head screws torque is 220 to 240 inch lbs

For the 6 large crank halve bolts the torque is as follows:

Top 150 to 170 inch lbs
Center 162 to 168 inch lbs
Bottom 150 to 170 inch lbs

For the rod caps on the 59 Lark:

If they are 1/4-28 use 180 to 186 inch lbs
If they are 9/32-28 use 216 to 222 inch lbs
If they are 5/16-24 use 348 to 372 inch lbs

Torque flywheel back on at 60 FOOT LBS.

I like to start at half torque for a revolution, then 3/4 torque, then the final torque.

As stated, before torqueing the crank halves, drive the pins in the locate the halves.

Ensure the spaghetti seal is not too long, nor too short. Too long it will buckle, too short you will have a leak there.
 

boobie

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Now's the time to get it apart with some good heat and beat with the right tools.
 
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