Tohatsu MFS15B2 Carb issues

smartin187

Recruit
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Aug 26, 2014
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I have soaked and blew out the carb numerous times including the emulsion tube jets everything and it idles for about 5 or so seconds before dying. If you try to give it throttle it definitely dies but if you twitch it just right it will run wide open as long as you want it to. The only thing I noticed in my service manual is there is an oring on the bottom of the emulsion tube I am missing not sure that is the problem though. Any help would be appreciated.
 

pvanv

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Apr 20, 2008
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6,509
You may have a damaged or missing part. No, there isn't any o-ring associated with the emulsion tube nozzle. However, it is critical that the rubber plug/cap be installed in the slow jet bore, or mixtures will be crazy rich. It's also very important to have everything related to the accelerator pump plunger working clean as a whistle. The check balls for the plunger chamber are susceptible to rust/corrosion if water has ever been in the system. See the attached diagram.

002-21047-4_FIG05.JPG
 

smartin187

Recruit
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Messages
2
Paul,

Thanks for your reply. What exactly are the check balls? If you are talking about the figure number 1-1-2 I did free that up and clean it and it goes up and down great. I did put a brand new rubber plug over the slow jet. I noticed my rubber boot cover on the outside of the carb that covers the accelerator plunger is torn up could that be an issue?
 

pvanv

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,509
What you are not seeing (and isn't detailed in the parts diagram, since individual parts are not available), is the lower half of the accelerator pump. There is a check ball for filling, and IIRC, one for squirting. The assembly is very small and delicate; If damaged, the factory can sell you a new bowl, which comes complete with those bits. Does the accelerator pump squirt (with fuel from the bowl) when you open the throttle? If not, it needs attention. Yes, the rubber boot is important. I have a couple on the shelf if you need one. It will test your dexterity and patience to change it, as you must disassemble/reassemble the throttle arm and associated return spring.

BTW, In order to do a proper soak, you must completely disassemble all parts, and soak them while disassembled... after a long soak in carb dip, we use a liberal dose of generic carb spray -- pushing the red tube of the aerosol directly onto passage openings, before reassembly, to dislodge any softened varnish crud. Often uses a whole can for one carb. Short of that, you may well still have some varnishing.

Note: If there is any evidence of white aluminum oxide corrosion, you may need another carb, as you can'y dissolve that with carb dip.
 
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