So, all last summer, the kill switch on my BF75L worked intermittently. Sometimes it worked 1st or 2nd try.....sometimes it took me a while and multiple push-push-push tries to get it to kill the engine. It's a tiller mounted push button. I think it's been replaced before.....Why do I think that? Because the switch body says "Made in USA".
The switch isn't a true "kill switch" because it doesn't have a lanyard/clip to keep it from actuating. It's just a simple Normally Open spring loaded push button.
Because it operates intermittently, I want to replace it. So far, a Honda switch is hard to find and expensive! I think that whoever replaced it before already went through the exercise and ended up just putting this switch in.
Here's my questions:
1) The switch, when closed, shunts the primary circuit to ground, thereby "killing" the engine by interrupting the power to the spark plugs. Is that the way "modern" kill switches work? Are they normally open?
2) Do you see any problems with installing a simple 2 position toggle switch? I can get something fairly cheap through, say, Grainger. They even make them as a spring return to open type.
3)If "modern" kill switches work the same way (normally open), I'm guessing that I can get a reasonably priced (yeah....I meant CHEAP) kill switch on-line and install it.
4)Are there any issues or concerns with voltage/amperage ratings of either of the switches I'm talking about in 2) and 3) above?
Thanks for any input
The switch isn't a true "kill switch" because it doesn't have a lanyard/clip to keep it from actuating. It's just a simple Normally Open spring loaded push button.
Because it operates intermittently, I want to replace it. So far, a Honda switch is hard to find and expensive! I think that whoever replaced it before already went through the exercise and ended up just putting this switch in.
Here's my questions:
1) The switch, when closed, shunts the primary circuit to ground, thereby "killing" the engine by interrupting the power to the spark plugs. Is that the way "modern" kill switches work? Are they normally open?
2) Do you see any problems with installing a simple 2 position toggle switch? I can get something fairly cheap through, say, Grainger. They even make them as a spring return to open type.
3)If "modern" kill switches work the same way (normally open), I'm guessing that I can get a reasonably priced (yeah....I meant CHEAP) kill switch on-line and install it.
4)Are there any issues or concerns with voltage/amperage ratings of either of the switches I'm talking about in 2) and 3) above?
Thanks for any input
