Re: Nissan Outboard below deck
hmmm...the shift rod leak problem is a question...hmm...I haven't dissembled the lower unit yet, but hopefully the shift lever within the lower unit is sealed. This would solve the problem since where the lever rod enters the lower unit will be above the seal with the hull and not exposed to water. But I suppose the only way to find out if A) there is increased backpressure on the exhaust at startup and during idle due to the higher water level up the exhaust channel and B) whether water might splash up into an open valve when not running and kill any hope of a spark...is to do it. The motor is a 2006 8hp Nissan and I don't see any mention of exhaust venting except through the prop in the SELOC manual nor from the parts diagrams available on line. There is some secondary cooling water drain down the exhaust channel besides being pumped out in a stream from the rear of the upper unit, but this doesn't seem like it would be a problem....As for cost, this approach must be the cheapest way to convert to an inboard...no more bending over the the transom while in a full heal and sailing solo, better weight distribution with the motor located down low near the keel instead of cantilevered off the stern, and no more spider web covered outobard to deal with, and more room at the stern for access to the water and for installing a wheel instead of a tiller. Just remove the lower unit from the motor (4 bolts), cut a hole in the hull, install a 2x12 below deck to hold the motor bracket, cut a hole in the cockpit floor, lower the motor through and onto the 2x12, expoxy and then caulk around the intermediate unit where it passes through the hull, perhaps a couple of bolts through the hull and the horizontal fin on the motor where it meets the hull cutout, reinstall the lower unit below the hull, add a drainage line for the water from the motor and voila! IB instead of OB. Some other small matters like, adding ventilation ports to the compartment for gas fumes, install a remote control linkage, and work out a way to keep the manual pull start so as not to rely only on the electric start, then install a raised hatch over the hole in the cockpit floor and you're done.