2012 Tohatsu 6hp won't idle

[bullfrog88]

Hi - I bought a 2012 6hp Tohatsu 6 hp (maybe 50 hrs on it) from a buddy that changed the oil but way overfilled it (2x the correct amount of oil). I read the forum and see that causes major issues so i changed the oil (it smelled like gas) but it still runs rough and won't idle. If there is any good news it was only run with the excess oil for 10 mins connected to the hose but it was long enough to make the oil turn dark brown. Did we riun the motor? Any input would be appreciated.

 

[km1125]

Doubt you ruined the motor. Make sure it's slightly below the full mark even with fresh oil. Why did it smell like gas? I would get the old oil out and put some fresh in. If it continues to smell like gas, I would wonder if you are also running really rich. What does the spark plug look like?

 

[bullfrog88]

Thanks for the reply - i figured gas somehow got in the oil is why it smelled like gas - i'll look at the spark plug in the morning.

 

[pvanv]

Assuming your model is MFS6C; year is irrelevant. Verify oil level is between the hash marks on the dipstick when it is screwed all the way in. Odds are the excess fuel in the oil was from flooding, possibly due to not disconnecting the fuel primer hose overnights; that can also damage the fuel pump, causing fuel to pump into the crankcase. Poor idle is usually due to varnishing in the carb, usually due to not running the carb dry at the end of each day. A new plug (NGK DCPR6E) and a proper carb cleaning -- with real carb dip -- will probably get everything back to normal.

 

[bullfrog88]

Hi - pulled out the spark plug - end was full of black soot - i will get another one when i get a chance this weekend let you know how it goes. Thanks for all your help - appreciate it.

 

[bullfrog88]

HI - Happy Easter! - I replaced the spark plug and it made a little difference but still dies when idling - i replaced the fuel filter and had the same result. I did notice that the fuel filter won't fill up with fuel while running - it only has 20% in the bottom - barely looks like its high enough to reach the outflow on the filter (since the filter is sideways). Could it be the fuel pump? I revved the motor a little and it doesn't get any more gas in the filter.

 

[ondarvr]

Clean the carb before looking at other things.

 

[bullfrog88]

Hi - how hard is it to clean? I've never done it before - looked at some youtube vids but not sure if they did it correctly. Thanks for the reply.

 

[ondarvr]

It's very easy, on 1-10 scale maybe a 3, it's intimidating for the first timer though. If you've done it before it may take 1/2 an hour on a motor like that.

 

[pvanv]

PROPER carb cleaning will require removal, Complete disassembly (including jets and emulsion tube nozzle), a 4-plus-hour soak of all non-rubber parts in real carb dip (available at auto parts houses in 1-gallon cans with a dip basket), then a thorough, aggressive, and liberal blow-out of all passages with generic carb spray (use a whole can), and finally a careful reassembly, paying close attention to float height, and finally, re-installation, possibly with new gaskets at the carb base (there are two, one each side of the plastic insulating spacer). Total labor maybe 1/2 hour as ondarvr said.

Do not cut corners on the cleaning; In some instances, multiple cleanings are needed to clear the tiny passages well enough for proper air/fuel blending.

 

[bullfrog88]

It does look intimidating with all the small parts and screws - not sure i can do this lol.

 

[km1125]

It is actually really simple, if you take your time and you lay it out on a bench. Take pictures as you disassemble it. There really are not a lot of parts. Also print out a parts diagram so you can reference it too.

I did not soak mine but did disassemble, use very liberal amounts of carb clean and blasted air through everywhere I could. Mine did clean up and run well afterwords. Paul is definitely right though when he recommends the carb soak... there are a lot of very small passages that you can't get to that the carb soak can. That is your best option.

When removing jets, just make sure you have the RIGHT size screwdriver. I've seen too many people bugger up the jet by using a screwdriver too small, which makes getting it out that much harder.

 

[Sea Rider]

Once properly cleaned, running carb dry after use can do wonders maintaining a carb in impeccable clean conditios, specially if it's 2 strokes..

Happy Boating

 

[bullfrog88]

Does everything just go back in place or do i have to make adjustments on screws etc?

 

[bullfrog88]

also, is there a way to inspect the fuel pump first - I am wondering if it is not getting enough gas to the carb - thanks!

 

[Sea Rider]

Will need to adjust mixture screw if visible and idlle screw, the rest of the carb is fixed. To inspect fuel pump must be done visually, that's disassembling pump down and inspecting internal components sucha as diaphragm which is the one that does the heavy work. If found dried, cracked, ballooned change it include adjacent gaskets.

Happy Boating

 

[TOHATSU GURU]

No adjustments other than the exterior idle screw. Don't worry about the fuel pump at this point.

 

[bullfrog88]

Thanks - I will give it a try - worst case i take a box of parts to the shop lol. Only concern is:

"2) Understand that your desire to repair your engine does not mean that you have the ability to do so."

 

[bullfrog88]

ok - I removed carb - it looks like its brand new, not a bit of residue or varnish anywhere - jets totally clean also. the bowl was full of fuel so probably not a fuel pump issue.

 

[pvanv]

Does everything just go back in place or do i have to make adjustments on screws etc?

Unless someone has drilled out the EPA plug that hides the pilot adjustment, the only possible adjustment is the idle stop screw, which gets adjusted with a shop tach while on the boat.