Nissan NS5B not starting.

[markomarkovich]

Long story short, motor was underwater in ocean for a week, once taken out i took it home and dunked it in fresh water, cleaned it all up, tried to start it and no go. sprayed it down with WD-40 on the outside and put it in storage. This week i ordered a new pump body, pump cover and all new gaskets for it. I put it all in and for some reason no fuel was going to the carb bowl it was dry, so i took the bowl apart and filled it up with fuel, put it back together and now it seems to be full and maybe the fuel is getting to it. It almost started up a few times in the beginning and now that the bowl is full I'm not getting it to kick over even for a second. I tried using a lot of starting fluid but nothing at all. I disconnected the brown wire for the kill switch and put it back on and still nothing. Any ideas what the problem may be?

I am getting spark as well.

 

[Sea Rider]

Make a compression test, probably piston rings are stuck already. Usually when an OB has fallen into water, salt water much worse, must disassemble complete powerhead and inspect each inside component. You could have already a 5 HP Pandora Box...

Happy Boating

 

[markomarkovich]

Make a compression test, probably piston rings are stuck already. Usually when an OB has fallen into water, salt water much worse, must disassemble complete powerhead and inspect each inside component. You could have already a 5 HP Pandora Box...

Happy Boating

I got some numbers from the compression test, first pull 30 pounds, 2nd pull 90 pounds and 3rd pull 105 pounds, i did it a few times with the throttle open and choke closed and vice versa and the numbers always ended at 105-110 by the third pull.

So looks like the compression test was good. Any other ideas?

 

[pvanv]

Fix the carb. If it was empty, there is a problem. Could be a sticky needle, etc. Obviously, also clean or change the plug as well, and test for spark.

 

[markomarkovich]

Fix the carb. If it was empty, there is a problem. Could be a sticky needle, etc. Obviously, also clean or change the plug as well, and test for spark.

i hope i don't have to keep repeating myself. I posted i do have spark in my original post!I have a brand new spark plug in there with the correct gap. Carb is full now, but even with starting fluid the motor won't start.....

 

[km1125]

Starting fluid is really bad for a two stroke (no oil!), but if it's not even firing on that you need to find out why there's not spark in the cylinder. Use a new plug and check the spark with that plug before you reinstall it.

Otherwise, like Paul said, check the float valve and/or fuel pump to see why gas isn't getting to the bowl. Even if the pump isn't working correctly, you should have been able to fill the bowl by pumping up the primer bulb.

 

[markomarkovich]

Starting fluid is really bad for a two stroke (no oil!), but if it's not even firing on that you need to find out why there's not spark in the cylinder. Use a new plug and check the spark with that plug before you reinstall it.

Otherwise, like Paul said, check the float valve and/or fuel pump to see why gas isn't getting to the bowl. Even if the pump isn't working correctly, you should have been able to fill the bowl by pumping up the primer bulb.

There isn't a primer bulb, the motor has an internal fuel tank. I HAVE SPARK, I HAVE A NBRAND NEW SPARK PLUG AND IT IS GETTING SPARK!

 

[km1125]

So it seems you have two problems... why fuel isn't getting to the bowl and why starting fluid won't fire when you try it ( it should at least fire a few revs!). They are separate but equally important issues to resolve.

You did say you had spark before, but we don't know how that was verified. If you just checked from the coil to ground, then that still left the plug as questionable. If YOU are confident that the plug is firing in the cylinder, then I guess you're OK.

When you say that you got " all new gaskets for it." and "I put it all in", does that mean you disassembled the whole engine, or did that just apply to the pump?

 

[Sea Rider]

Check the following :

-Internal plug cap contact is in shinny cond, visually check if rusted by salt water ?

-In a dark garage, check if plug spark is strong and blue, yelowish is a bad sympthom.

Have found once rust on extreme of plug cable and cap contact, unscrew, check. If faulty will produce a weak spark.

Check that fuel pump diaphragm is correctly assembled, diaphragm hole must match hole on bowl assembly. If assembled backwards fuel won't fill bowl...

Internal fuel tank must be clean, fill half tank, with fuel **** lever at closed position, remove fuel hose that goes to filter & carb, open air vent and lever fully, check that fuel exits freely, If not must clean internal mesh filter located inside fuel ****, Remove **** from tank and flush it backwards with fuel, water, **** lever must be set at open position when flushing. Once clean, re install it, fuel should flow freely.

Good Luck
Happy Boating

 

[markomarkovich]

Check the following :

-Internal plug cap contact is in shinny cond, visually check if rusted by salt water ?

-In a dark garage, check if plug spark is strong and blue, yelowish is a bad sympthom.

Have found once rust on extreme of plug cable and cap contact, unscrew, check. If faulty will produce a weak spark.

Check that fuel pump diaphragm is correctly assembled, diaphragm hole must match hole on bowl assembly. If assembled backwards fuel won't fill bowl...

Internal fuel tank must be clean, fill half tank, with fuel **** lever at closed position, remove fuel hose that goes to filter & carb, open air vent and lever fully, check that fuel exits freely, If not must clean internal mesh filter located inside fuel ****, Remove **** from tank and flush it backwards with fuel, water, **** lever must be set at open position when flushing. Once clean, re install it, fuel should flow freely.

Good Luck
Happy Boating

-Spark is blue
-Fuel pump diaphragm is correctly assembled
-Internal fuel tank is clean, is actually filled with 50:1 fuel with no ethanol in it.
-As i posted before, fuel runs very freely from the tank up until the fuel pump diaphragm. The tank is not clogged nor does it have poor flow.

I will check the plug cable and check for rust.

Can it be a electronic issue at this point, i can't even assume so because i AM getting spark....

 

[markomarkovich]

So it seems you have two problems... why fuel isn't getting to the bowl and why starting fluid won't fire when you try it ( it should at least fire a few revs!). They are separate but equally important issues to resolve.

You did say you had spark before, but we don't know how that was verified. If you just checked from the coil to ground, then that still left the plug as questionable. If YOU are confident that the plug is firing in the cylinder, then I guess you're OK.

When you say that you got " all new gaskets for it." and "I put it all in", does that mean you disassembled the whole engine, or did that just apply to the pump?

The new gaskets just applied to the fuel pump body and the carb gasket where it attaches to motor.

 

[km1125]

Does this engine have reed valves (and if so, are they working)? If you're not getting vacuum in the crank, you're not going to be pumping fuel and whatever is in the intake is not going to get to the cylinder.

 

[Sea Rider]

Why did it took so long to recover a submerged OB from sallt water ? Submerged OB's should be recovered as fast as possible to work on them inmediately. The longer it takes, the worse, things usually happens. Electrical parts are not that water proof.. Having blue spark is no indication that CDI/Ignition Coil unit are doing their homework right. Polish all grounds to a shinny state so all electrical components works spot on.

Have you removed flywheel, are electrical components rusted ? could be so and delivering less power than needed to CD/IC box. Did powerhead been opened up ?

Happy Boating