Force 125HP misfiring, running rough...

[fmt2bx]

NO need at all. It wouldn't hurt to use though if you wish to do that.

Thanks.

Ok, so here it is, I finally put it back together. Added some clear fuel lines on the fuel recirc system.
Also changed the 2 ignition packs and all the coils.
Got a flywheel from ebay with magnets in good condition.

 

[fmt2bx]

Test run in driveway:

Started right away, that's the good news.

Still a bit rough tho and here is a video of the recirc lines while running. I could see a lot of black particles going thru the line (bottom cylinder drain line) and a lot of fuel going through. The black particles looked like fuel hose chunks. I have replaced and inspected ALL the lines as well as the fuel tank and I cannot see any damaged fuel lines. Could have been from long ago. Fuel filter is clear at pump and in line filter as well.
I have no idea if this is normal or not.

Here is a pic and a video of what it looks like:



https://youtu.be/dNnNTQR-UBk


Started reds job now. Curious to see what I am gonna find.

Cheers

 

[fmt2bx]

Took the reeds out finally (I work slowly), I was surprised that it went pretty well and not that difficult after all. . Removing the old gaskets tho was a pain.

#1, #2, #3 look good. #4 has two petals not sitting right. I guess that could explain that the bottom cylinder has so much fuel going through the recirc system and that after a few minutes at idle it must flood the spark plug of #4 and start to get rough. (Jigzz, you were so right!!!)

Going to replace all of them tomorrow. I read here that it is a good idea to use some loctite on the screws of reed plate. Should I use red or blue?

Thanks

Also wondering what is the purpose of the vertical fuel line between the two Carb plates?

 

[jerryjerry05]

The reeds don't have to fit tight.
There can be as much as .010 maybe more in there.
Can't see in the pic?
They're there to keep the fluid from going back into the carb.
The black stuff could be carbon that you've knocked loose.

The hose is an equalizer pipe.
It allows the pressures between the carbs to be the same.

Either red or blue works.

 

[fmt2bx]

Well, it just shows how much I understand!!
Thanks for the explanation btw.

 

[fmt2bx]

Reeds replaced. Did a static run in driveway, idles at 1000 Rpm and no more rpm surges!!
Will go to lake tomorrow for a complete tune up.
At this stage I just hope that it is going to work. There isn't much else I can do.

PS: noticed that, even before I replaced the reeds, the top carb isn't as responsive to the idle mixture screw as the bottom one.

 

[Jiggz]

The black stuff in the fuel recirc system is most likely carbon build up from the fouling in #4 cylinder. You might want to schedule a de-carboning session after you have her running correctly.

 

[fmt2bx]

The black stuff in the fuel recirc system is most likely carbon build up from the fouling in #4 cylinder. You might want to schedule a de-carboning session after you have her running correctly.

Yes, good idea. I'll probably remove the drain plates afterwards to check the filter and inspect.

 

[fmt2bx]

Final update (hopefully for a while) :

Started early this morning, Checked the timing (static) then off to the lake for tune up.

I followed the "idle speed adjustment" instructions down to a T.
Worked beautifully!!!!
Idle in gear is at 750 rpm, no miss, very smooth.
WOT gave 4800RPM,.
The motor feels really strong now.

I had one mishap tho. The rpm suddenly dropped to 3400 rpm @WOT. I really thought that the something catastrophic had happened. Turn out new coil spark plug boot was the problem.
The boot of the new coil design is too long and doesn't fit right. I missed it totally when I installed them. The boot rest on the ignition rack and doesn't connect properly. I guess the vibration did the rest. I cut the boot about 5 mm, all good now.



I followed the instructions of Frank (as per video) for the timing. I have to say that I am still a bit confused about the whole thing. The book says 34 BTDC max, 32 BTDC at running. The mark on the flywheel are for 28, 30 and 32. I don't understand why it isn't 30,32,34 but as you can tell, I'm really not the expert here confused.
What really matters is that it is working very very well now.

I would like to thank you ALL for the help, time and patience you have given me. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge. You guys make this place this amazing resource that it is and saved us $k. ! Can't thank you enough.

Cheers.

FMT

PS: My humble contribution: I wanted to share a small template I made to keep track of the turn on the mixture screw while adjusting idle. Don't know about you but I had a hard time keeping track of the initial position, too rich and too lean setting. It's made out a piece of foam. I guess one could use a cardboard.

 

[Jiggz]

Congrats. Don't forget about the de-carboning session unless you can see from the clear fuel recirc lines that there is no more black stuff running around.

 

[fmt2bx]

De-carboning is next on the list. Thanks Jiggz for your help.
Now , at last,it's time for us to try to enjoy the boating season.
Cheers

 

[SkiDad]

wow you have pretty much a new engine now - nice work! I would just put some mercury quickleen in the tank and let it clean up over the rest of the summer and enjoy the water. I know up north we have had some crappy days and the weather is just now getting summer like.

 

[fmt2bx]

wow you have pretty much a new engine now - nice work! I would just put some mercury quickleen in the tank and let it clean up over the rest of the summer and enjoy the water. I know up north we have had some crappy days and the weather is just now getting summer like.

Thanks skidad
I read a few of your post about quickleen. I have to order some online, can't find it anywhere.
Yeah, it was a tough decision about spending so much on an old engine but we stayed within budget. The alternative was to get a new motor. I was looking at Suzuki 115. Really liked the 6 yr warranty and the reviews. But at 100lbs heavier and $10k, didn't care for that too much tho.
Looks like we have the exact same setup, 19' bayliner capri. We got the boat 3 months ago to get the kids water skiing. We had a few weeks without too many problems but the motor started to give us some trouble. I really don't mind being stranded in the middle of the lake once in a while ( that builds memories right?) but it was becoming a daily occurrence. Not much fun.
We are now the 3rd owner and I don't think that the previous guys did anything to the motor for 15 years. Even the impeller hadn't been changed. So I guess it was time for some TLC. I love the idea that it is a relatively easy motor to work on. I spent some time on the forum looking at Merc, yamaha etc and looks like it isn't much better than Force. Sooner or later it will need work.
Hopefully we will be able to keep the force for few more years, at least until the kids decide they don't want to have anything to do with us any more (lol).

Thank you very much for your help and happy boating.
cheers
Fmt

 

[Nicktassoni]

Can anyone help me with a similar issue? I’m looking to check my coil packs and CDI boxes. I’m having weak spark on 1 and 3 (I have the same model motor, 1251x6a force 1986) I bought the boat and finally got to put it in the water and it won’t go. Runs fine out of water and idles fine but won’t rev out when under a load. I got maybe 3k rpm out of it. I got to checking it out and compression is good. But spark test failed. Where do I go from here?

 

[Nordin]

Nicktassoni...... please read the rules of the forum!

DO NOT HIJACK A THREAD.

This thread is almost 3 years old!!!!

Start your own new thread with your actual issues and you will get response soon, I promise.

 

[jerryjerry05]

outboardignitiondotcom has test procedures for your motor.
There is no way to test the packs.
You test all the other parts and if they all pass???
Then you throw away the packs.

Try swapping them around.

Like Nordin suggested.
Start your own thread.