1991 120 hp Force/Chrysler No Spark at amy cylinder, please help.

Jiggz

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Dripping? Like from the mouth? Or like from the overflow hole on the side? Or leaking from the bowl? As for voltage 12.8 at idle is not bad at all. However. it should hit above 13 volts at WOT.
 

Jiggz

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There are only two ways fuel will leak out of the bowl, a worn out or missing bowl gasket or worn out or missing retaining screw fuel bowl gasket. And of course, the very unusual hole in the bowl itself.
 

dan2744

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Leaky bowl gasket was causing the issue, I cleaned again and put in a gasket from my extra carb. I also added another fuel filter to try to help with sediment from bottom of tank. Everything seems to run great. The electric choke does not work but I will mess with that some other time. How can i tell if the electric choke is working, is there a test? It is somewhere in the wiring but I have not gave it much thought due to the other problems.
 

Jiggz

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The choke mechanism on your motor is an electric solenoid with a green or yellow/blk wire. It connects directly to the "C" terminal of the ignition switch. To activate it you will need to push in the ignition switch and keep pushing it while turning the key to on and start position. As soon as you push it in you should hear a loud click indicating the solenoid has activated and closed the choke shutter. The body of the solenoid should be grounded for it to work. You can also bench test it by directly connecting the single terminal to the battery's positive and the body to the negative and the solenoid should activate. If not read resistance between the terminal and the body and you should have some resistance otherwise the solenoid could be faulty. If there is resistance then it could be the ignition switch is faulty.
 

Jiggz

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Now you do. So is it working properly? Remember you can only choke the engine for no more than 2 times. After that you just continue to start without the choke or else it will flood the carbs.
 

dan2744

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Took it out and the carbs were acting up. It would not rev up and then the engine locked up. It will spin counter clockwise but not clock wise. I am almost positive that something in the lower end locked up just like it did before in my driveway. Im just not sure why the lower end is binding up. I need to buy some dynamite so that I can blow this boat up and then bury it.
 

Jiggz

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As I have mentioned before, you need to do serious op-test at the driveway before heading to the water.
 

dan2744

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Im just not sure why it ran fine in the driveway and then locked up in the water. I am not sure where or why it is binding up.. It is acting the same way as it did when I had loose bearings in there.
 

Jiggz

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It is most likely the lower bearing seal is not working anymore thus letting water in and freezing it. You might want to take a trip to a boat yard and just get a used U-joint unit and housing. Just make sure the seals are all in good shape.
 

dan2744

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Where is the most likely place for water to get in to the bearings? I am almost positive that I have loose bearings in there again. I will take it off tomorrow and make sure. I think that was what was causing all of my problems.
 

dan2744

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Lower end is locked up. I drained oil from LU and I could tell there was water in it. Now I am going to try and disassemble the lower unit.
 

Jiggz

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I've never done a LU before. So you will have to follow the diagram to do the disassembly or wait for someone more experienced to chime in.
 

dan2744

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I found my problem, a bearing right under the water pump housing had disintegrated and fell into gear box. I pulled out the reverse gear and all the teeth and everything look very nice and clean. I think I just need to replace bearing and then make sure all seals are good. It looks like the seal down there gave out and allowed water in the gearbox. The problem is finding that bearing.
 

dan2744

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Was that the seal that you were referring to? It looks bad, probably where the water is getting in.
 
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