1991 120 hp Force/Chrysler No Spark at amy cylinder, please help.

[Jiggz]

Check around the perimeter of the race make sure there is not a retaining ring which I believe there is none. The thing that makes it hard to remove is because the bearing overheated as indicated by the blackened balls thus "almost" welding the race. It will take a lot of force to push it out either with an hydraulic press or a 5 pound sledge hammer and a flat faced chisel. Just make sure put it against something solid like an anvil or a vise.

 

[dan2744]

Can a shop press that out? I would be more than happy to take it somewhere.

 

[Jiggz]

I'm pretty sure they can. If you look on the other side of the housing you should see some part of the race sticking out. This is where you will try to push it out. And you should be going in around to even the push out if using a chisel or a long flat tip screwdriver. I understand the protruding lip from the other side maybe too small but you go on an angle.

If using a press, you have to have the right diameter of round stock to press it out which most shops usually do.If not then they can always use a tube or pipe expander of the correct size to have some kind of "grab" on the race. Obviously with a pipe expander you don't want to get too tight as this pushes out the race making it tighter or worse breaking the bearing housing it is stuck on.

 

[dan2744]

I got it off by chiseling it out, now I need to install the new bearing. It looks like water got in the location of the u-joint and bearing. How would that happen? How do I keep it from happening again?

 

[Jiggz]

Dan, you need to follow the diagram that was provided which shows you all the parts that need to go inside the housing. Obviously, the unit is probably still the same original unit and yes, they do get worn out especially if they are not maintained properly. From the looks of the U-joint it looks like this is the first time it was opened since it left the factory. And yes some of the seals are not available anymore so you will have google around to see if there are any substitute. It is these seals that keep the system waterproof.

 

[dan2744]

I have the bearings and snap ring in the housing, it actually went in fairly easy. I think I can come up with something on the seals, I hope, and I'll look around.

 

[dan2744]

#37 from the diagram is nowhere to be found. Is it rubber or metal?

 

[Jiggz]

I cannot find an image either. I believe this is the part that fell off with the ball bearings when you first noticed the problem. A trip to the boat yard might be in order.

 

[dan2744]

I got everything put back together using the old seals, bearings were actually very easy. Now when I try to start it it will barely turn over, it acts like its in gear. Why would it do this, Ithink the lower end is in gear.

 

[dan2744]

Well the lower unit seems to be in neutral, I know that after installing the housing that it turned over fine so I made a mistake somewhere when installing the lower unit. The starter is having a hard time turning it over and its also hard to turn by hand. Where did I mess this up?

 

[Jiggz]

Unfortunately, you would have to dismount the LU and the eventually the U-joint housing. You need to check every step of the way. After dismounting the LU, remove spark plugs from Powerhead (PH) and make sure the control lever is in neutral and try rotating the flywheel by hand and it should be really very easy with very little effort. If not, then you will have to continue dismounting the U-joint housing and then test rotate the flywheel again. Hopefully, at this time the flywheel is easy and free to rotate, if not then there is something wrong in the PH.

Now if after dismounting the LU and the U-joint housing still in place and the flywheel rotates easily and freely, then you know the problem is in the LU. The same logic applies when you dismounted the LU and the U-joint housing and the flywheel rotates easily and freely, that the problem is in the U-joint housing.

 

[dan2744]

I took off the lower unit and everything worked fine, I took the impeller off again, something in there was hanging up so that problem is fixed. My battery and starter are having a little trouble turning the engine over but I think that is because of the new rings and impeller. I think this starter is a little doggy so i am going to put on another one. I am also pretty sure that I have started to kill this battery through out this whole process. I am confident enough to put it on the water right now, so when I get this little problem fixed it looks like I may be on the lake for the 4th, if I choose to be. The battery that is in there is a car battery that came with the boat and Im guessing its just not enough.

 

[Jiggz]

Charge the battery for at least two hours and try again. Even with the new impeller, you should still be able to turn the drive shaft (while dismounted and in neutral) with bare hands although a little tight. If you cannot rotate it at all something was not installed correctly or the impeller could be the wrong size. I highly suggest doing an op-test on the driveway before heading to the lake or open waters. It'll save you a lot of headaches and frustrations.

 

[dan2744]

I got it running, I jump started it with my truck and all seems well. https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=fYlsf2eHPcU

 

[Jiggz]

Congrats. As I have mentioned you will need to check everything at the driveway before heading to the water. You should at least have another person engage and disengage the prop and make sure it is engaging properly while you are watching over it. Check water flow to make sure it will not overheat and watch the exhaust to make sure the carbs are optimized and finally listen for any unusual signs. Congrats and enjoy your hard work.

 

[dan2744]

It goes in gear pretty good but once to die when I put it in reverse. I throttled it back pretty slow, do I need to throw it in a little faster or is something else wrong?

 

[dan2744]

I let it run in my driveway for about 20 minutes and it seemed to run better the longer I ran it.

 

[Jiggz]

When engaging in gear you always want to be snappy so as to avoid damaging the clutch dogs as indicated by the metallic grinding. Another thing is to minimized idling. To do this you need to put the control lever in fast idle once in a while while on the driveway or if you have the cowling off rev it up a little to about 2500 RPM using the throttle tie bar connecting both carbs. The reason for this is to avoid accumulation of unburned fuel in the crankcase with the fuel recirc which only tends to operate at 2000 RPM.

 

[dan2744]

I did a voltage test at idle on my battery and its reading about 12.8 volts at idle. I assume that will only go up with higher RPM's. Is that normal voltage at idle?

 

[dan2744]

I also have a carb that keeps dripping, I take it off and clean it and it will work for a few days and then start dripping again. The needle keeps getting stuck semi-closed or something. I have a whole other set so maybe I will try the other set.